Turbocharger

Whose EGT gauge? Despite the extra cylinder on your engine, so long as you've got somewhere that sees the exhaust gas from all the cylinders, pre-turbine, and is in a reasonable flow (for transient response) the method is the same for any engine. Fit the thermocouple, run the wire back into the cab and then supply power to the gauge unit. Wire the two together and drive somewhere... Thermogard gauges for the 300Tdi use the EGR port for a nice neat install (unless you use damn great bits of plate as washers... ) but you can mount it direct to the manifold and drill a Jubilee clip to hold the thermocouple if you've not got that luxury.

I think Will's referring to the smaller volume of gas in the induction system, therefore less gas to pressurise before that pressure reaches the intake port. In practice, I'd be very surprised if the internal volume of the intercooler and some pipework wasn't negligible in the face of the high-speed gasflows concerned.

The Yanks call brake discs 'rotors' but I thought dBA was reserved for really loud noises...

To be quite honest, your use sounds like mine - daily driver with some offroading (Cordell - shut it). To be quite honest I'd say don't lift it (2" lift = 4° castor angle decrease from 6°!) but look at getting more travel from your shocks instead. That won't compromise the road use (so long as you pick the damper rate carefully to match the originals) but allows the kind of twisty pictures you can see above. Whereabouts are you? Some profile details wouldn't go amiss if you're going to stick around (and you're quite welcome...)

As in they look bigger, or you think they're bigger based on what you've seen? It's all about the bling, remember Another benefit is that the rim's half an inch further from the floor, so less likely to hit stuff and protects the brake disc better. A wide range of "Suzuki" tyres become available, although on the road the extra sidewall won't help your handling.

Oops. Now I have wheelspin marks in my hallway...

[idea] Couldn't you rig up a brush to keep it clean as it spins? [/idea]

24V, 100W, 7Ah batteries, 10mph (apparently), one drum brake. I've never been so scared or looked so stupid.

My 2p: Nick appears to be making money, albeit "non-commercially" Nick advertises in the Classifieds a lot Any forum needs posts, the more the merrier More posts brings more readers, not the other way round Imposing limits on selling price doesn't work (4x limit, anyone?) I say let him post, but a donation to the site (which I think has now proved its permanency) would be appreciated. And no, I've not paid up either yet but I think now is the time. It's too soon to see people being excluded. JB

Chris - you moving up this way? You should have said if you were as near as Devices... there's lanes aplenty down there!

Silly and probably OT question but... why are they splined that far down?

Disclaimer - 4 pints later Axes - 1st plot is output velocity as % of input velocity, for the shaft (blue) and the output flange (purple). The purists will ask why the average output is 134% of input speed. I don't know. I could explain it for the blue plot: integrated speed wrt angle will be greater, integ wrt time ought to be equal. 2nd plot is standard deviation of output velocity results for different alpha/beta angle combinations. Unsurprisingly, phase makes no difference where one angle is 0° but I was surprised to find 90° phase is always best (but it kinda makes sense). If the forum allows hotlinking, my equation is: where w2 = output speed w1 = input speed beta = UJ angle (ie less at axle end than gearbox end) phi = shaft rotation (ie effected by the engine, demonstrated over 360° in examples) Jim - hell, even I'm scared now. JB

Nice one Will - something I'm still very interested in but don't have the funds to push the project along on mine. Good writeup too, plenty of detail to go at. Let us know how the thing develops as you get used to driving it, interesting points it throws up etc.

Got a seat cushion? You're welcome to sit on the towrope in the back of mine (but it's a van Ninety with a cage in there...)

I've just been to see the film and it rocks - the sense of humour is spot on and the attention to detail is astounding. I'm not a big film goer but I want to go back and see it again!

2 LandRovers (with baggage) seek like-minded vehicles with scenic tendencies for light-treading entertainment in the Somerset/Gloucestershire area. Must have camera, please send picture of tyres. Fosse Way, southbound from Kemble, 16th Oct.

I think I was also using the cheaper ones which are (reversible - never figured that out!) and a lot thicker. Surely prop vibes won't be related to engine revs though, since the prop is doing different speeds in low/high range, different gears etc?

Sorry - no good. When you've done the shock up (with a grin because of your cool new toy) the shock pins the spanner between the spring hanger and the axle. Maybe you could cut a slot in it for retrieval...

TroddenMasses is a liar. What happened was, a creative chap we both know chiselled the striker plate off when his door was stuck shut. He fitted a second hand lock and it happened again. I managed to get his door open with a cable-tie that time. The door won't unlock if you pull up the button/turn the key while the outside button is pressed in. The problem is that, although the button returns when you take your finger off, the internal workings don't. If you pull the top of the door card away you can loop a cable tie around the relevant bit (on the door 'skin' side of the lock) and get the door open. Then you have to dismantle the door and lubricate/replace the little coil spring that rusts up. TM fitted a new lock too although I think it was unnecessary. (He now has spares though ) JB

I can get them to Bristol if you PM me before Sunday lunchtime.

Did they get rid of the hole in the front panel for the starting handle with the 200Tdi, or was it the 300Tdi? Could even have been the Td5 although to the best of my knowledge the last engine to have the starting dog on the crankshaft was the 2.25P (which only went in the Niney for a year or so). Still, it's handy for running winch wires/pipes through

I've been thinking about this. The speed fluctuation gets worse as the UJ angle becomes greater. The angle at the diff end is negligible, it's pretty much a straight shaft (hence why LR can pair a normal UJ here with a double-cardan joint at the gearbox end). I said earlier that you can reduce the impact of non-parallel UJ pairs with some maths, and you suggest that LR do this as standard practice (bear with me). I've been playing with the maths and I can't see it's true. For a prop with two UJs and a 20° angle at each end (with UJs "phased", ie at 90° to each other) the effect is thus: In theory, by phasing the two UJs at something other than 90° you can get more vibration from your propshaft. BUT! even when the angle at the gearbox end and the axle end are different, the optimum phasing is still 90° unless one UJ is straight (when it doesn't matter how you phase the UJs, it's just a shaft.) Your thoughts? ("Your maths is carp" is perfectly acceptable...) JB Disclaimer: No brain cells were used during the making of this post and yes, I've had a pint. Thanks also to my girlfriend for reminding me what sin and cos are...

As a further followup, I'm very pleased indeed with my new ratio after today's motorway thrash. It really seemed to have slowed the car down - it runs out of puff about 85mph - but then I realised I'm (passing everything on the motorway and) running a Disco speedo drive gear, as if I had 205R16 tyres on - I reckon that's about 10% low on the speedo? Meanwhile, cruising at an indicated 65mph is much more relaxed, the noise level's much lower and although it's blunted the edge of the performance I'm not changing down for motorway hills and the whole thing seems much more mechanically sympathetic. Fuel consumption is largely similar from what I can tell, maybe +/- 5%. Overall, very pleased. John (EGT peak is now 735°C - oops!)

If you just want the hardware to make your radio/switch install look tidy then I suggest you bribe Si for more photos of his - it's a very tidy install. Simon - do you have a feel for which parts are necessary (and which can be replaced by self-tappers!) and what the whole thing cost? It'd make a lovely mounting place for my radio and EGT unit.

I've wired up my EGT gauge and I'm pleased to report the results are very similar to Stephen's at tickover and lugging around. I've already tweaked the boost on my Tdi without any problems so I was interested to see a peak temperature of 735°C up a long hill - the difficulty is finding a long enough hill to peak the EGT without running into anything! I'll be staying below 700°C now I've got the gauge (it drops quite quickly with even slightly less throttle). I've heard of melted turbines and cracked exhaust manifolds but - what actually fails? Is it the exhaust turbine, the inlet impeller, or something else entirely? Overall though, apart from the slight hassle of straightening and re-bending the thermocouple it was very simple to fit and I'd recommend Ian's setup to anyone.