discojmz

any chest measurements on the large ones Jim?

ah but is it my imagination or are the fedimas not a narrow tyre too... thus less chance of rubbing... then again, real deal 35inch simex are only 20 quid more a tyre or something arent they? but yeah the crawlers should be just fine!

fit the 16s and the creepys then mate. makes sense financially and you can spend more time having fun and less time stressing over what to buy or what you can afford to buy. enjoy your bobtail, and hell, if they clog up a bit more, use more loud pedal. I personally have more fun getting muddy than I do if I manage everything I try. life's too short, and I reckon there must be some other decent 16inch compliant tyres out there? fedimas?

personally Rhys, I reckon you should go with the stazworks ones... just think of the money you'll save over time by not keeping changing your tyres every 5 minutes

what i want to check was whether adjusting the timing to improve the 'overall performance' of my engine, which I am already planning to do, would improve the cold running of the engine too. surely logic dictates that it would. If the speed didnt increase but the smoothness did improve as a consequence then that would be absolutely fine, but to my mind, a lumpy idle would slow rpms. the original point of the speed being low, is now seeming of less consequence and has little to tie it to the rough idle if all similar engines idle that slowly when cold. Ive established that earlier. regardless, thankyou for your input, but if I deem my FIP timing related ponderings as relevant, which they undoubtedly are, then I shall continue to post them in this topic in order to increase my understanding. 'Jamesmorfee', I shall advance my timing a touch tomorrow and report back with my findings. thankyou all for your input thus far

nah, for one thing the lift pump isnt very old (i know that doesnt necessarily make any difference) but it starts on the first crank, it just doesnt seem to idle very smoothly for a while interesting. a number of members have advanced their FIP to positive effect by effecting a fuller and cleaner burn. aparently something probably related to wear, makes the injection pump retard slightly over time, advancing it a small amount supposedly counteracts this, giving a better running and slightly more powerful engine. again... aparently, I havent tried it yet!

update. voltage across battery terminals - 13.25V voltage from -ve terminal to heater plug rail when ignition turned on - 10.95V is that enough? hmm... with the engine sounding so much 'smoother' than it did before, less of the raucus 'diesel' sound... I wonder whether advancing the pump a bit is the answer, but how much. do i just advance it fully (half a tooth or whatever you get to play with)

did the timing only yesterday for the 3rd time in a week. Everything is cock on, timing pin on FIP, Flywheel and cam sprocket marked tooth lined up with timing web in timing case. of course, Im yet to try advancing it a tad

just put a brand new set in last week ralph. I can always check them again. will also check there's power getting to them as I took that for granted last time

hi guys every other vehicle Ive ever owned, when cold the idle speed would be around 1100rpm or more and over the next couple of minutes, would decrease to 750-800 where It would be when warm. when my discovery is warm, it will idle at around that speed, and idles really nicely and happily when cold mornings start (like now) and first start of the day before now, the engine has a really lumpy and unhappy idle at around 500rpm or less, and a dab of right foot is required when moving off. on something electronic I would be changeing water temp senders and cleaning idle speed control valves, but I dont have an ISCV and my temp sender isnt connected to my FIP what am I doing wrong (two pumps on the throttle cold start on fiat uno's?) or what has gone wrong that needs addressing thanks Jim

streaky has a set on his 130. he put a post up recently about his trials and tribulations with them. it would seem that they increase vibration a lot due to being more solid, but on a chalenge truck I cant imagine it being an issue (this is solved by adjusting their orientation IIRC). their being captive is a big bonus, and the bush is easily available and replaceable with different kinds I seem to think.

small hatches a la boy racer mobiles, are in my experience heavily weighted insurance wise for young drivers. makes sense. something slow, cumbersome and 'middle aged' would be an improvement. but since he now has the clio, that could pose a problem Fridge, If I remember correctly, these days pass plus only counts in the first year of driving. Did for a number of my mates anyway. Once youve got that 1st years NCD it's the same price for everyone. I didnt do pass plus, but it only saved them about 20 quid more than the cost of doing the pass plus in the first place. 4 years on, they went as named drivers on their parents policies, I used the power of student loan and part time job to go under my own name, and Im the one laughing.

number plate wasnt something like 44 COO was it? if so, it lives or used to live, up the road from me. bloke owns a caravan and towing company in S****horpe. Havent seen it in a week or two mind you but it looks identical. OTT lighting and tints. It used to run around here on black number plates if it is the same one.must have got in bother, or thought they wouldnt fly outside Lincolnshire

wipac's are cheap and bright, but quite large

Jim, could you clarify this for me please. could you describe what your engine was doing that wasnt as it should have been. Im beginning to wonder if I have made the same mistake that was made on yours and got a tooth out somewhere. probably thanks to parallax error of looking down on the timing gear and timing marks. Id like to see if the problem fits thanks

thanks a lot! can anyone remember which way to turn the crank to retard or advance? (when facing the crank pulley)

Ive searched the tech archive but couldnt find anything particularly enlightening except a couple of individual posts that confused me a bit more. due to a problem with low power and a touch of smoke when cold, Im intrigued to see if advancing my timing has retarded somewhat or rather requires advancing anyway. or even resetting it if that is what it requires. could someone please explain exactly what I need to do. hopefully I can achieve this by only removing the pump sprocket cover rather than the whole timing case front? or if this has been covered in detail before, a link would be most appreciated. many thanks in advance Jim

ive got some of the same problems myself. gotta get my injectors tested but first im gonna try advancing the timing a touch as getting my injectors out and somewhere tohave them tested is a pain near to you though, surestart diesel in doncaster. theyre one of few local places that can test 2 stage injectors like 200tdi ones. gonna take mine to lincoln.

if you wanted to go a touch more aggressive, ive just fitted cooper discoverer STT's to mine and theyre absolutely brilliant. My driving is about half road half tracks and fields and only the odd little bit of playing, but the siped tread on these and the fact theyre somewhere between a BFG AT and MT in agression makes them really impressive on the road, especially with braking in wet or dry. theyre one of the heaviest load rated tyres available too which is good for towing etc. Ive not got stuck with them yet, and believe me, Ive tried!

ok ignore this, I made a proper rookie mistake. didnt disconnect the bus bar. one of my plugs is reading 750 ohms and the centre turns a good half turn when removing the nut, and the other three are open circuit. whoops!

just been checking my heater plugs as part of an ongoing fault find, and need some clarification on the figures. I have a set of known good plugs here from an astra, that when checked for continuity read 0-1 ohms, the broken ones read no continuity just put the multimeter across the ones in my 200tdi engine and each one tests to 739 ohms-ish which seems a hell of a lot! are they shot? are they almost shot? I thought they would have no continuity if that were the case. are they just very resistive? thanks in advance Jim

i wondered about this since they both look the same externally. they are different part numbers which doesnt always mean anything, but I believe the 300tdi items are single stage and have a different opening pressure because of a different opening pressure at the pump. i have no doubt they would physically fit and vice versa, but I doubt they would work properly, of course I would be very happy indeed to be proven wrong!

I think it's gonna have to be done just so I know Ralph. just hope my local guy can test dual stage injectors. aparently some places cant?

I didnt move the FIP at all. I suppose theres no saying it doesnt require a small amount of adjustment after 138,000 miles, but I havent moved it myself.

My apologies if this has been covered but with using the board's search engine and google, Ive not been able to find the answers I'm looking for. when my engine is cold, i have a small smoking problem at the exhaust. just a light smokey haze, but enough to notice it outside the vehicle. whether this continues as I drive away Im not sure, but once warm the smoke ceases. from what I can tell it's a darkish smoke of sorts and smells to the best of my nose, like diesel rather than burning oil. once up to temperature it clears completely and idles more strongly. when cold the engine seems a bit down on power, certainly less power than when warmed up, but is this true of all engines? I also seem to be down on fuel economy. now, what does this sound like? I thought injectors, rings, timing or valve clearances. I'll check my valve clearances again in the morning but theyve been done recently, timing, it could only have surely got a whole tooth out when I replaced the cambelt, but a whole tooth out would make it run really badly I would have thought? rings? not sure what to check for these injectors... bad spray pattern could account for incomplete burn and smoke... would a hot engine burn the fuel whatever the spray was like? and if it is injectors, where the heck to get them for. the last set i bought were 2.5td items at around 25 quid a pop, and my dad had some 300tdi items for 40 or so each, but paddocks dont list 200tdi injectors and the only other place i found listed at 140 some a piece!! thanks in advance guys. Ive just got my discovery how I like it and now it does this to me