discojmz

well i picked a pump up this morning locally at a very reasonable price. I cant find any play in the arm so im going to fit it now. the amount on ebay actually stands including postage at 2x the price i bought this pump for (from a reputable parts vendor with 6 month warranty) so Im not going to let the money go unchallenged. It's a lot of money to me, Im 21 and dont currently work full time. My truck will be back on the road today whatever. Theres no time constraint on getting the money back. If I can fix the pump and sell it on, then I may well do that instead. one way or another I shall recoup some or all of the money.

right well ignore the bit about the leak having settled down. It was all but not leaking at all at tickover when I just went back to the workshop. revved it up and down gently a bit, still nothing. took it up somewhere near WOT for a second max, and theres diesel pouring down the side, shot up the side of the spindle and run along the underside of the throttle arm and dripping off it like crazy. waggling the arm seems to settle it again. there is obvious wear on the bearings or seals or bush, whatever the shaft has holding it. I can imagine if the shaft was settled when bench tested it wouldnt appear to leak... ...or am I just being all young, idealistic and naiive again?

right, this morning I went out to run it again in the workshop and get some photos of its installation, a video of the engine running and photos of the leak if possible. upon waggling the throttle arm back and forth as I had been doing before, something felt to pop or drop back into position. the leak has certainly lessened, but it has not stopped. Is it likely to stop of its own accord? one thing I do notice is if I run the engine for a minute or so, (very short periods only, no coolant in engine) when I turn it off, I can hear pressure escaping from the spindle sides, so I know it's definitely not sealed. Ive got some photos etc now anyway.

I can see me being stuck with it at this rate Les so yes I would appreciate it from both practical and educational points of view

Pete, Is it this drive plate bit as seen on here?

I wouldnt be confident doing it from mere words, but one of your words and pictures writeups may be a different story. Seems like a scary scary black art type repair to me haha. Im unsure what to do to be honest. Im feeling the hurt of not having my vehicle for a week now, so it's whether I hold out a while longer or go get a replacement tomorrow. I suppose i could get a replacement, fix the dodgy ebay one and sell one of the two on once I knew it was in full working order. I was going to try pushing the seller to take it back for a refund on the basis that if he's so certain theres nothing wrong with it he had nothing to lose, but I think ive now convinced him that it IS damaged, only problem being he's making out that Ive done it through incompetance or something.

Unfortunately Im a lover not a fighter, and as such, something like small claims doesnt appeal in the slightest. The furthest I would take this would be elevating it to a paypal 'claim'. since ebay rules are that the seller is responsible for the condition i receive the goods in, and I can prove that it was less than acceptable, I should be able to get a result that way. however, my own morals/methods dictate that I try my utmost to deal with this personally with the seller, and only wish him to see reason. perhaps I am expecting too much. I certainly shall contact parcel force and see if I can claim myself. I have mentioned that I have documentary photographs but having not actively offered them, I shall make sure that I do. Thanks again!

many thanks David Thanks Les

I wish I could, but that would mean putting my internals in the other's casing... Ive not a clue where to start and dont fancy it tbh. The chap has 100% positive feedback on ebay of over 430 feedbacks. I dont think he's the type to try and fleece someone. Hell, I'll even believe the item really was AOK on his side of the courier, but on my side it is NOT. His responsibility, and since he has £150 coverage with parcel farce, I dont know why he's being so difficult. I only wish Id given Amazon4x4 a ring first

this idea that incorrect timing would create back pressure into the pump and force diesel out of the spindle. surely A: the injectors open by way of pressure in the flow direction which pushes against a spring to open the injector, thus nothign can be forced back in the opposite direction also the spindle is at the low pressure side of the pump, not the high, and ne'er the two shall meet?! not to mention once again, the engine 'runs' flawlessly, the pump just leaks profusely

Im in need of a bit of serious help here. a slight boo boo was made when finishing timing up my discovery a week or so ago, and a timing pin was not removed. it promptly removed itself when test starting the engine, but removed part of the front of the injection pump also. cue one pump with diesel flooding the timing case. this is what happens when you get someone to do the front of the engine bit while you lay underneath and check the timing mark through the flywheel case hole. oh well, chalk it up to experience, buy a replacement off ebay at a reasonable price. replacement arrives, box is in a hell of a state. its taken some real pain in transit. ripped, torn, mishapen, the works. oh well, pump looks ok, fit pump, time it up, fire up the engine. engine runs brilliantly. happy as larry face drops, fuel coming out around the throttle spindle at quite some rate. Id read about this a number of times. cue red mist descending, back on laptop, paypal dispute, yada yada yada. heated discussion between myself and seller. I claim it was never as described in good working order, he says it was. I apologise when I remember the state of the packaging and suggest that carrier may well have damaged product by an impact to the side of the throttle arm, therefore neither of us deserves to be out of pocket, they need to cough up. all along, seller is claiming that the pump must have been fitted incorrectly, which is impossible. everything only fits in one place, everything was labelled when removed, and put back as per workshop manuals. ENGINE RUNS PERFECTLY. Seller suggests timing being out causing pressure in pump and blowing seal. I explain that where the spindle is, the pump only has lift pump pressure, timing has no bearing on it, and the engine running flawlessly and all timing marks aligned perfectly disproves this also. if i put one finger either side of the throttle arm, I can rock the spindle in its hole easily, there is considerably more play in it than the broken one I took off!! seller claims it was bench tested before delivery with no leak, but now says cant believe that it can have been damaged in transit 'as theyre really robust units' Can someone please confirm what I already know, and hopefully someone might be able to give me something in writing that I can use here. It's really depressing me now. Im very much out of pocket, my discovery has now been off the road for a week so I have no transport, and it's currently looking like im going to have to borrow my dad's and travel a way to spend even more money on another unit just to become mobile once more. help me I beg of you Jim

he said he's already worked it out! durrr Ive been looking at these invertors. I already have 2 transformer arc welders. one small cheap SIP one, one big oil cooled cyntringham one, and a carp SIP mig welder I like the idea of a clean arc after watching our fabricator using one on site the other day, and the possibility of adding a TIG kit so I can even do ally etc and learn something else. I know theyre not the be all and end all of TIG definitely, but Ive seen some dual purpose invertor welders that cater for hot start rather than the majority that only do scratch start... a real bonus!

i wondered if it wasnt required on the 200tdi so it was removed to save money and leaks. it was replaced on the 300tdi as part of the meeting emissions regs process

so because yours is remapped, and his is chipped, yours has good emissions, and his doesnt, his chip is not to blame... the chip couldnt have gone wrong or be causing some kind of conflict. ive seen enough ecu chips play up hell in my time to suspect it. I also know that you try the free things first, then the simple things, and then the complex ones. if removing the chip makes no odds, fine, put it back. the K&N is doing no favours at all regardless. like i said, he says chipped, not remapped. chips and piggybacks can often be simply unplugged. im only going on what he has said. I do hope though, for the sake of your wallet that its not any duff injectors matey. good luck with it! im sure some grownups like Bogmonster, Jim Attrill etc will be along soon enough to tell you exactly what the problem is. might be worth sending a PM to 'Porny' he's our resident TD5 wizard! oh and welcome to the forum

remove chip, put a real air filter on and retest eliminate the added complications first in my opinion otherwise, not that i know much about td5s but i would suspect the mass air flow meter, possiblt coolant temp sender

take one engine crane, lift engine and boxes complete, set aside swap axles, suspension etc over to new chassis lift engine and boxes, still complete, onto new rolling chassis job jobbed just like Les said

mine's one of the very latest 200tdi's and does not have it. it doesnt have the stub blocked off, the stub is not there full stop, the rocker has no sign of ever being cast with one. as said, theres a flat plate on the side of the block

that'll do for me. thanks Mark! it's still aroused my curiosity why some do and some dont. Maybe its just one of those great mysteries of the universe that we're not supposed to know ...bet Ralph and Jamie know

on this photo, to the right of the oil seperator is a boss for a hose. ive seen this on a few 200tdis on ebay in the past but never been able to ascertain where on earth it goes to and what it does... point being, mine does not have one. the casting on my rocker cover is completely flat at that point. If anyone could tell me whether or not I should have one or am at a disadvantage without, id be most grateful. Im assuming breather. In fact on further investigation on microcat it seems to be a breather pipe that runs down to where one of the side covers is on the block (forward most one) but again, no clue why I wouldnt have this! thanks

as for the eye to eye/ pin to pin issue, nigh on all the crawler builds ive read through on pirate use eye2eye with their coilovers and some pretty darned extreme flex and twist with no issues. perhaps look at how they achieve it?

can you not run them with the mach 5s for a little while, use semi-sensible pressures and then save up and get them beadlocked later? I would imagine youd have to be doing some serious stuff to actually 'need' beadlocks. bonus is, you can get out there and play sooner

I thought that about my discovery but Ive dropped a veggi oil bottle cap in mine "...and it was never seen again" I tried fishing it out but to no avail, theres no anti-siphon that I could find, and ive no extra resistance when I fill up... so it's just in there for the duration I reckon

This could probably do with being in a seperate topic, but I'll let someone else decide out of interest, what would people put the price difference between the LR CV and a TLC CV down to? extra tech behind the LR one to make it as strong as the larger TLC unit? the fact we just cant make anything as cheaply as elsewhere to the same standard? what I refer to as Land Rover 'scene tax'? Personally I dont use my vehicle in enough anger to justify uprated axle internals, but in the future should that change, the TLC route would be the one I definitely took, or perhaps the Patrol route, both are available to me financially, both available to me in the physical availability stakes, and theres more and more tech relating to the fitment of such items that I can be confident of a grown up being there to talk me through it when I inevitably get stuck. Portals would be brilliant, but they dont for me fit the criteria of justifiable cost or availability. (plus of course you will tip over, set on fire and surely die!) but as someone who is comparably just getting into the scene, and will be looking to change things up in the future, the above with the jap axles, I find of utmost importance. let's face it, how many of us love land rovers because they are hands down better than anything else, and how many of us love landrovers because theyre bewitching, they get under your skin and its more a personal statement than anything else? we dont have to bag on land rover stuff because it's rubbish, we dont have to bag on Jap stuff because its not land rover. When innovation clashes with stalwart loyalty, it's purely a show of people who care about what they do. Everyone chooses a different path. what is right for one, is wrong for the other. I dont think that there is even an argument here to have.

just found the measurements in the original post. all yours kkk2!

.8bar is stock for a 200tdi isnt it. so it depends what you want. As far as im aware, you can increase it by the wastegate arm or via a bleed valve up to the 1.0bar that the 300tdi engines run with, with no ill effect. no guarantee implied or given