discojmz

i find it's not so much the machine for mounting the tyres, but when I had my cooper STTs mounted the other day, they couldnt then fit them on the balancing machine. they didnt have any centres big enough to clamp the 8 spokes onto the machine so I walked out only 30 quid lighter, and the wheels are perfectly balanced anyway. here's to cooper for being able to make round tyres!

looking good! I assume since youve lengthened the actuator arm that you'll now have to put a boost guage on to make sure it's set how it should be? otherwise it's just pot luck surely?

if working correctly, the engine should of course stop on the key if you turn off at the key and remove the key, then remove the solenoid wire and the engine stil fails to stop, then the solenoid is jammed. if pulling the wire off the solenoid stops the engine where the key has failed, the somehow you have an electrical issue and 12v still at the solenoid I would expect it to still not stop and it be a sticking solenoid tbh. unless youve been messing with the wiring in that circuit/area recently

now have confirmation that the RT01 is not available from hankook and has been replaced by the RT03 any experience of those on the road would be appreciated. theyre the same price but ive read the lack of siping on the tread blocks makes them 'interesting' in wet conditions on road

IIRC the most recent version, the Crower 6 stroke reportedly does not need any kind of cooling system. Assumedly because that heat energy from combustion is transferred to the injected water, and then expelled from the exhaust in the form of steam with claims of 40% reduced fuel consumption and no loss of power vs 4 stroke equiv, I for one would love to know the drawbacks of this system that have stopped it being advanced and adopted on a large scale. There must be some huge disadvantages that are escaping me

does anyone have any first hand experience of either of these tyres? Im looking for a set of 265/75/16s for the discovery, and do very much like the look of these. They dont look as agressive a tread pattern as a BFG mud but look more capable than a general AT2, the coopers are in the middle on price, the Hankooks are cheaper but Id like to find someone with some real world useage of them. I dont feel I can stretch to the price of BFG muds at the moment. the vehicle does spend more time on the road than off, but Im fed up of having to have 2 sets of tyres, and I dont want to get stuck. So things like how well do they wear, how noisy, how much more rolling resistance? The coopers are 10 ply and rated at 3415lb load, the hankooks are load rated much lower, both are Q speed rating (99mph?) the hankooks aparently are made of a hard compound to make them wear evenly and last longer, Ive no idea on the compound of the STTs, but hard compound on the hankooks might mean scary braking in the wet? Cooper STT 1st pic Hankook RT01 2nd pic thanks Jim

Im currently looking at the possibility of needing new injectors and/or rings. my problem isnt as bad as yours, and I shall update later after trying the next batch of concentrated injector cleaner (fill up replacement fuel filter with it and swap them over) later today. personally, I wouldnt buy 2nd hand injectors. there is nothing to say that they are any better than the ones you already have. I think my local guy quoted roughly 2x that for full reconditioned ones. he tests them for free also, so I might have to whip mine out and take them to him at some point

what do you guys do about the front arch liners (if they are the same as discovery ones?) I dont particularly wish to encourage mud to fly up the inside of my front wings. cheers jim

even more to think about. Not sure I want side exit, but in the interests of protection I suppose I could have it tucked up a little bit more at the rear since there wont be the bulk of a back box there, and angle it down a touch

This is something I had long been considering, but with the size of the tailpipe on my rear box being so tiny, I cant help but think it would be more beneficial to replace that one and not the mid box. I shall go and get a definitive measurement on it. Jim

Tony, Can I ask which one you left in? Im assuming the mid box? Is it the stock one, or a more compact (more off road friendly) item? Am I right in thinking the rear box is nothing more than a resonator anyway rather than a silencer?

like that is it

this is all sounding very promising. I might look at pricing up the rear section, and a seperate mid box removal pipe, that way if I thought it was too loud I could put the mid box back in... Or I just go back and get them to cut a bit out. Thinking about it, It may need to be in three sections as per stock in order to fit and remove the system anyway. can anybody give me any Idea of price that I should be expecting?

how loud are we talking then with this talk of 'within regulations' ?

calling all exhaust gurus, particularly those of a dervilish persuasion. been thinking about popping up to my local powerflow guy and seeing about some exhaust bits done on the discovery. I was initially looking at my mid box replaced with straight pipe. would be quick, easy, cheap job. now Im wondering whether to price up the whole lot from the downpipe back. Everything is currently the stock 2.5 inches. but the backbox tailpipe can only be 1.5 on a good day. I guess my exhaust system as it stands is pretty restrictive... the question is, what is the best setup to have? there is often a lot of talk that the turbo silences the exhaust note as much as is needed. truth? myth? and back pressure. I appreciate the reasons behind NA engines requiring it, but what about turbos? Someone once told me turbo engines liked no back pressure and straight through pipes because they were already creating back pressure themselves due to the resistance on the compressor side of the turbo?? All input gratefully received Jim edit: 200tdi

and that's on a 1.2 transfer box?

all I asked was if anyone 'does' wear them. merely a pondering ive long been of the opinion that motorcyclists for example shouldnt be made to wear helmets... anyone who doesnt it's their own lookout. we should be responsible for our selves!! but I do also see that as an events organiser, there is a duty of care that must be observed

yep. mine's the same size... another related question... at 60ish mph on the clock in 5th, what is your engine rpm roughly?

how many of your wear eye protection during challenge events or otherwise? polycarb safety specs or whatever? I reckon even if synthetic rope will only bruise skin, i bet it could easily have an eye out during one of these 50ft recoils that have been mentioned. safety eyewear would also of course protect from branches, mud, dust, all sorts. having had a piece of steel wire dug out of my eyeball in A&E and ever since having a hole that dust etc can get trapped in, I find inexpensive safety specs (£3.50 pulsafe ones in clear and yellow) invaluable. just a thought

thankyou gentlemen, much obliged. I shall check it against mine this evening. Jim

thanks mate!

my apologies if this has been covered before but I couldnt find the info I was looking for Im after a measurement on the full outer diameter of the alternator pulley on a discovery 200tdi part number RTC5847 but i cannot find out the diameter. this is to find out once and for all whether the pulley on my alternator is correctly sized and therefore whether my rev counter is telling pork pies. many thanks in advance Jim

is there a significant price difference for a non-galved new chassis? Think someone on here had their existing chassis dipped at cost of only 200 quid or so. If that were the case, could be worth getting a chassis, having whatever welded onto it and then sending it off for dipping afterwards?

keyboard broken old bean?

odd... I could have sworn id seen discoverys and RRCs on here with arch flares fitted