discojmz

not to mention one person's use of the word 'chat' is going to be different to another. For one, I can appreciate LR4x4 for what it is, a highly comprehensive technical forum, and I can therefore see how it can be difficult to strike a balance. Having the place too informal breeds havok whereas an overly dogmatic approach breeds contempt and perhaps even a feeling of a cliquey 'old boys club'. I think for the moderating team to be 100% even handed 100% of the time is impossible, but men in glass houses shouldnt throw stones but I find some of the comments and reprimands ive seen from time to time to be beyond heavy handed, and just down right rude. I suppose the main problem here is purely human nature. We are able to share information with one another and over time especially with socialising at events, challenges and playdays etc, we are bound to build up a rapport with one another. This in turn makes it even harder to keep everything 100% on topic and not have a bit of 'banter' (which even the most long-lived and highest ranking members and staff DO do from time to time). I for one however, feel that this adds a certain something to the feeling of the forums. Is there such a thing as a Utopia?

crank sensor is my guess but im a tdi man myself senses each time a timing notch in the flywheel toothed ring passes it

good luck Jon, thankfully my crank was scored but not actually worn much. enough for the new pulley to slide on more easily, but not the 2mm of diameter missing that the orignal damper had. most difficult bit was getting the crank sprocket off. required mapp gas and a home made puller with hardened teeth to tease it off the shaft.

yeah i guess that makes sense Ralph. cheers for clearing that up. Jim

ok conceded, i'll take your word for it for now, ive only ever bothered looking at the figures for the discovery, i just NATURALLY assumed that the defender with the exact same engine would have the exact same figures, so what gives?? since the topic was re: 200tdi vs 300tdi i was also correct, as like for like in a discovery, when not talking edc, they are the same power still want to know why and how the defender engine is less powerful, makes zero sense

dont cos then you'll make ME look silly I still had to google to make sure starworks wasnt a company, and still found at least two people talking about starworks double beadlocks... on hummer forums iirc

starworks or stazworks?

theyre lying dude, I get 36 on a run out of mine. has been known to touch 38 on a couple of occasions if i give it some stick i can get it into the fairly high 20s but thats about it really 200tdi by the way. my dad's lucky to get 25 out of his 300 most of the time, but he only does short journeys. he can get 30 on a run. sucks to be him i guess as for 300s having more power. rubbish. all the figures are 111hp same as the 200. only the edc version of the 300 had more and that was because it was auto nigh on all of cases, and needed that extra

All fixed and back together! thankyou one and all for your help jim

30mm on my 94 discovery1

where the track rod attaches to the swivel housings looks far too angled down to me compared to what memory serves it should be. if it transpires that the diff angle isnt that far off, i would say it is perfectly conceivable that the swivel/hub assemblies have been bolted onto the axle tubes one hole too far round looking at that caster angle, it must be frightfully heavy on the steering anyway, definitely not helped by 'components' like that

im gonna throw cranked trailing arms into the mix. saves those rear bushes no end!

have you warned them at the other end? someone really should!! safe trip

pm mmgemini i seem to think he had some for his expedition yep he did

if i was you i would swap the reversing lens for a second fog lens (red), wire appropriately to come on with the other one, and relocate a reversing light to top centre where Scotian has his incorrectly placed reversing light. Job done! for the rear at least

sprocket is coming off to do that key, and also to check and probably replace anyway, the oil seal behind it. the broken pieces of metal ripped the outer dust seal in the timing cover, to pieces

so the sprocket covers 1 1/2 of them and the damper only latches onto the half that sticks out?

right, front of the engine is suitably stripped down. damage is now clear and aparent. the shaft itself seems to have taken little damage as such. it is scored but doesnt seem to have lost any thickness. for anyone who can confirm or otherwise, calipers read 32mm inside of damper hasnt been so lucky and is well worn (deep lip at the front) haynes book of lies shows two keys in the shaft, microcat shows the same, i only have one, that will need replacing where it's broken as it comes out the sprocket. you can see this in the pictures. will need a blob of chemical metal too by the looks of things. did wonder if i used to have another key on the shaft but ive emery'd the shaft and theres no way there was ever another key there. thoughts?? cheers jim

wow! how the other half live my first car was a 1.3litre H reg ford escort and cost me 300 quid insured in my own name it cost *ouch* to insure

thanks Daan! youve basically illustrated my dilemma brilliantly. i wish to keep the standard intercooler, and thus half of me thinks upping the boost to 1bar will gain nothing and increasing the fueling will drink fuel disproportionately to any actual performance gain, and i'll watch it all blow out the back... or will that .2bar not increase charge temperature noticably and that diaphragm rotation mean i can get the same economy through lighter-right-footedness. or with an increase in boost pressure, perhaps it would not be too smokey im starting to guess that there is no easy answer, and it'll be a bit suck it and see? we've been talking about restrictions in the inlet side... how much difference will replacing the mid box with a straight bit of pipe make? obviously both sides need to flow as well as possible

yeah that's what i said (i think?) and im fully aware of the charge temperature part. its more a case of the specifics of turbocharging im concerned with. evidently it would seem the turbo is there for the point at which the above restrictions stop the engine drawing enough free air on its own to cope with the fuel. so it would seem to me that the fueling and boost pressure are both linked and adjusting one means adjustment will be required to the other?? for example increasing the fueling means the point at which the engine requires more air than it can draw without forced induction comes sooner? and the increase of fuel means more air also required thus more boost??

a few things have long confused me about this. i must be missing some fundamental principles of how my engine functions. since it has no throttle body to control airflow, the control is within the pump and controls the amount of fuel, the air is consumed as required for the correct burn? when on boost, the pressure moves the diaphragm and increases the amount of fuel to compensate for the now increased amount of forcibly inducted air? so if i were to increase the boost to 1bar, will the fuel pump add fuel to suit or will it burn lean? can it burn lean? likewise increasing the fueling, will that make it overfuel? can it overfuel? and by what method is this best done? does rotating the diaphragm to increase the ramp only affect fueling on boost? ive been privvy to so many seemingly conflicting or confusing pieces of advice regarding gaining increased power from my engine, i would love for someone to give a definitive answer as to 'doing this will increase this, but you do or dont need to do this also' type advice. im looking your way Ian jim

mine has an excessive smoke failure in its history (200tdi) half wondering whether something on the pump has been turned down (smoke screw perhaps) to compensate for this. but since ive had it, it has not smoked at all. hmmmm

think i'll be taking the engine out to do the work, its that easy to get it out and its that frustrating working down the front of it. that way if it needs to be, it's already out. will of course take and post pictures of the damage as soon as i can (thursday night or friday probably) for evaluation. meanwhile, keep the suggestions coming, as well as contingency plans. cant afford it off the road for long thanks again jim

oh masters of LRT01 i require your guidance sunday night i went to set off back to leeds in my disco (200tdi) and found i had no alternator, power steering or air con. on examination, my crank pulley (damper) has blown out a piece about a 5p size where the woodruff key is and spun on the nose of the shaft, still attached by the bolt. the woodruff key has gone or shaved away flush, and the nose of the shaft has become scored quite badly (although not especially deeply) my dad took it to local independant LR garage this morning who aparently very quickly decided it was knackered and would cost 800 to put a new crank in, 500 for a replacement engine in or what have you. so i told him to bring it back home until i get back at the weekend. engine runs so nicely which makes it all the more annoying. now according to microcat, the woodruff keys are replaceable and are the beveled bottom ones so what remains of one can be retrieved surely scoring of the shaft wont make it such as that i cant fit a new damper and pulley, new woodruff key and nice shiny new bolt with half a gallon of threadlock will it? should the worst come to the worst, ive aversion other than cost of putting a new crank in the engine. ive rebuilt a tdi before. but what are my other options (NO V8s, i would love to, but i really cant afford that) 300tdis seem to be cheaper to buy at present (200s getting rare?) but i was getting 36mpg on a run, and 300s wont touch that, plus i like my agricultural engine and i bet the 300 wont mate to the existing LT77 bellhousing will it? all opinions and advice welcomed. having a REALLY bad week Jim