Pollywog

Do you have an old set of shoes you could get relined?

I always use Mintex shoes.

PL32 is the standard universal blue stuff. Also worth noting that Hylomar & Hermetite are both the same products under different branding I'm sure Halfords sell Hermetite products.

I used this green & black stuff it seems ok so far http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111009709820&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

I spotted a pair on ebay last night, starting bid was £20 I think. Also there was a guy with a few pairs at the Malvern auto jumble back in January maybe he'll be at other shows?

I bought my plastic runners from the Series 3 & 90 110 owners club about 10years ago and they're still perfect.

Great thanks!

Have you ever seen Royal Mails pricing strategy? They make it difficult enough to setup a website for UK shipping let alone worldwide, trying to setup a website to calculate the combined sizes of a range of goods as well as weights, with sizing / pricing strategies that differ for various world zones, and then further restrictions on what items can and can't be sent to individual countries it's a nightmare!AND by the time you finally get the website working properly they go and make drastic changes to their pricing strategies all over again!

Hi guys, My dad had a look at a facelift model Freelander 1 TD4 the other day and has a quick question, when he took the cap off the radiator expansion bottle he noticed water spurting / flowing into the bottle from the top hose when the engine was running, is this normal? Thanks in advance,

The type 50 is the earlier Defender servo, slightly deeper than the Series servo, mine came off a 200tdi. The later Defender servo is the type 80 which is much larger diameter, I think they switched at the 300tdi probably to match the introduction of rear discs? The Defender pedal assembly will bolt straight in to a Series but the pedal kicks to the left so needs straightening, depending on your wings you may or may not need to trim to allow a type 50 to fit, I had to notch my wing slightly but mines a lightweight.

White is the tacho Brown & yellow is the feed for the light

When I fitted my Heystee kit a few months ago I left the rears completely standard and fitted a defender pedal assembly with the type 50 servo and master. I don't have any problems with the rears locking up and that's on a swb truck cab. I have tried doing emergency stops on wet road and in quite sloppy mud, it pulls up nice and straight.

Nothings ever that simple is it, of course to check the main nut I'll have to remove the overdrive. Looks like that's going to have to wait a few days.

Hi guys, Thanks very much for all your input. On my way home tonight I stopped at the top of a hill to try it in high range and it is doing the same but not so violently. I'll get the inspection plate off tomorrow and check the main nut. I'm not having any issues with the reverse gear.

Hi, Well it feels quite violent to me, I was having to hold it quite firmly to keep it in gear. It was jumping at regular intervals almost like it was at a set number of wheel revolutions which is what made me think a missing tooth?

Hi guys, Today I went on a BORDA training course at Whitecliff in Coleford and had a great day. The only let down was the fact that every time I came to do a descent my Series 3 wanted to jump out of 1st gear so I was having to hold it in constantly. It jumps out on even the slightest downward incline under engine breaking and from the regularity of the jumps I think we've come to the conclusion that perhaps the first gear cog is missing a tooth? The box is a D suffix series 3 box, I've never had to work on the internals of a gearbox before so this is all new to me. How involved a job is changing the first gear cog? Does it mean a complete rebuild of the gear box? Thanks in advance.

I haven't read the Land Rover magazines for about 10 years but I do write for magazines on a completely different subject. My experience from writing for UK based magazines is that many hobbyists here are very eager to write articles and submit them for publication free of charge, and likewise many of the big suppliers now have media personnel that put out articles to the magazines free of charge as a way of advertising their products. This means that the magazines have a constant supply of free articles and as such are reluctant to pay for content from professionals, I don't blame the magazines for taking that stance but inevitably the quality of the content suffers from that fact. Also with the writers not being under contract they are free to send the articles for publication at numerous magazines and so you regularly find the same topics covered over and over again. I find US magazines have a better way of working; the editorial teams decide what subjects they want to cover and then contact suitably experienced writers. Everything is done under contract and they aren't too keen on having content submitted at random. Unfortunately magazine sales have plummeted everywhere in the last few years and many titles are struggling, those that aren't struggling themselves still tend to suffer because they have sister publications on different subjects who are suffering. Personally I welcome LRW being bought out as I think there are just far too many Land Rover magazines in the UK; LRO, LRW, LRE, LRM, CLR as well as the general 4x4 mags, with so many titles there just aren't going to be enough decent articles to go around and the readership is equally diluted. Hopefully they will buy out some of the other titles as well and we can go back to having just a couple of really good publications.

The only app I've ever paid for is GPS2OS it simply converts the iPhones GPS reading to an OS grid reference, best 79p I've spent! I have now compared it to 4 proper GPS devices and it's spot on.

Heystee sell replacement stage one type swivel balls for the conversion. http://www.heystee-automotive.com/onlineshop/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41_50_51&products_id=126

Yes I believe the bottom splines are all the same on the Defender columns and most coupling shafts will fit (Disco 1, RRC, Defender, P38), apparently the lower UJs on the shafts can vary, I found my Disco1 shaft mated straight to the box but others have had to change the UJ to suit so you'll have to keep an eye on that. From the sounds of your plan you will need quite a short shaft, I never looked into shortening anything so can't help there but good luck and let me know what you end up doing, perhaps going the American route and machining a shaft from scratch would be better for you? From what I have seen the Defender steering wheels started out as 36 spline then at 200tdi went to 48 spline (same as Series) and then back to 36 spline sometime around the TD5? I'm not sure about the 300tdi? With regard to the steering column lock, as you can see from that thread my main goal was to have a comfortable driving position, I aimed to keep it near the Series driving position but having now driven it for about a month I believe the steering wheel is probably actually slightly further away from me than it used to be, i.e. closer to the bulkhead which feels good for me. I used the Series 3 ignition switch and it mates to the column perfectly however it now mounts on the top of the column and points toward the passenger so unless you can turn the lower bearing around and mount the column upside down I don't think you'll be able to keep both the column lock and the Series shroud. My intention all along was to use the Defender switch gear and shroud, for my use it made more sense to have the extra stalks and free up some switches on the dash. My drop arm is quite a bit further forward than the original would have been - again accentuated by how I've mounted the box further forward, I don't know if it would be possible to swap the drop arm for that off another box? The Series drop arm certainly won't fit but I didn't have any others to try so perhaps worth looking into? If you can get the full setup from the P38 complete with all the pipework I say go for it as I found the pipework to be the most difficult thing to source at a reasonable price. If you read all of that thread you'll note I resorted to having mine made up by an agricultural hydraulics firm and they weren't sure how well they would work but I'm pleased to say so far I've had no jerky movements but only time will tell as to how they stand up to the steering fluid.

There's a good pic of a P38 panhard / steering box mounting half way down this page: http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/45625-what-you-doing-your-p38-weekend-21.html I fitted a P38 box to my Series 3 recently and I'm very impressed with it, the steering is much lighter than any of the Disco's, Rangies or Defenders I've owned. Not sure about the pressure though as that would be more down to the pump than the box wouldn't it? I'm using a 200tdi pump. There are photo's of my steering over on the Series 2 club forum: http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,67964.0.html

+1 for the Nightbreakers. I've just fitted a pair of Osram Nightbreaker Unlimiteds and they've made a huge difference (mind my old bulbs probably came from poundland). When I get round to it I'll be re-wiring with relays but for now I'm very happy with the improvement made by the new bulbs.

I blame the new flood defences that have been built in recent years. They've spent millions here in Worcestershire building defences to protect riverside towns such as Upton & Pershore and fine they work for those towns but the water has to go somewhere and ultimately it is compounding the problem further down river.....

You'll be changing wheel bearings on a weekly basis.

If you want a more modern looking speedo work out the TPM needed for your gearing and have a look at the aftermarket gauges available for Triumphs, MG's, etc. a lot of them use the same cable and there's a lot more choice of styles. I've fitted a Triumph Stag speedo to mine, I chose it as it looks virtually identical to the standard one but reads closer to my gearing.