Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Old MX5's seem very popular for this.
Jon
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My money would be on a siezed centre viscous. The one thing I would add to the post above would be to make sure that the gearbox is in neutral. If you do it in park then the whole lot quite rightly shouldnt move at all!
Jon
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Use genuine seal kits and you'll find they fit better - still fiddly but more do-able. Pattern ones just dont fit right!
Jon
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I drive mine backwards and forwards through the local 3 foot deep a couple of times before I take it for MOT every year (tester refuses to trest it if its too muddy) - thats the closest mine ever gets to being washed!
Jon
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I only use the column stalks - the light switch is still on the dash in the standard series position. However i do use the defedner waspe wipe stalk as I fin d it less fussy than the series one, plus it has the extra positions so if you use the defender wiper motor and relay unit you can have two spped wipers, intermittent wipe, plus the wiper auto wipe when you press the washers. Easy to wire up and works well.
Ther defender steering lock is the same as the series one, except that it has an extra tapped hole in the bottom of of it to secure the shroud. A series one is easily modified however. The position that the steering lock is fitted to the column means that if you dont fit the column as I have done then the ignition lock will disappear down the inside of the dash as the defender column is longer at the steering wheel end. In short it all fits nicely and snugly using the defender bits up to the series dash.
I'll take a photo at some point but it probably wont be till the weekend as I wont be home in the daylight until then.
Jon
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When I fitted PAS to mine, I found that in order to get the balljoint on the drop arm at the same point as it was when using the series steering relay it was necessary to raise the steering box such that the lower bolt holes came through approximately in the centre of the chassis rail. I then has to fabricate mounts on top of the chassis rail for the upper bolts and had to cut one of the lower lugs off the steering box. Are you sure that at extreme articulation you will have sufficient clearance? Looking at your photos it looks like at full compression on the offside front suspension, your drop arm may foul on the leaf spring - it may just be the angle you photo is taken at, but might be worth checking.
If you'd used the defender column and bottom mount, it come with a bracket that picks up the bottom bearing and bolts through the footwell, in fact two of the 4 bolt holes already line up! This puts the steering wheel a couple of inches nearer to the driver, but does give the advantage that you can use the defender switchgear, and the defender column shroud will then fit unmodified. You'll find that the series switchgear will not fit without substantial modification, and the indicator cancelling will not work otherwise.
In addition you may need to fabricate a support for the upper column that bolts behind the dash (I note you have cut the defender one off) as I found there was too much flex in the defender column without this (it seems that the series column is far more substantial).
HTH
Jon
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Do not use the spring bolts. The guard should sit above these. On mine there was at least one hole that was already there from the factory. However repair sections do not have these holes in. Fit the guard above/behind the spring bolt, and you'll see the "arms" follow the profile of the chassis. Then simply drill throught the chassis rails and bolt it up with M10 bolts.
Jon
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In my experience the problem you'll is finding anything, anywhere regardless of cost!
I'm currently borrowing a mates workshop that is more than a 50 mile round trip from home, as there is simply nothing available (for any price) closer to home.
Jon
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100w halogen spotlight on the back of mine. Been there ever since I've had the truck.
Jon
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Why not just keep the BMWilly and invest in a set of snowsocks?
Or failing that sell the 5.2 and buy a nice economical Tdi to fit into the landrover?
Jon
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My dads just bought a freelander 2.
They are leaps and bounds better than the old model! Even Darryl says they're good! Pretty damn good off road too - we did a lap of the sidbury comp safari track in one a couple of years back - 5 up and the thing was amazing! Didnt get stuck once etc etc......
Dad managed 42mpg out of his on the way up to me at the weekend too!
Jon
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Apparently Interco have gone bust too so there'll be no more coming from them either!
Tyre choice seems to be becoming extremely limited at the moment!
Jon
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4 leaf rears are too hard for an 88" - they're designed for 109's. You want 3 leaf rears on an 88"
Jon
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tin of NATO green and a 6" brush....
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2 leaf fronts 3 leaf rears on mine. Mine are allmakes ones and Ive been very happy with them. They lifted it 2" or so.
Jon
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Why not just get a floor standing one, clear the carp out of the "overflow workshop" and shove it down there?
Jon
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Engine running too rich causing the excess fuel to detonate in the manifolds.
Probably due to low temperatures or incorrect ECU settings causing the engine to constantly be running with warm up enrichment (basically equivalent of running with the choke out all the time).
Jon
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The thread on the series tank is 1/4 BSP IIRC.
Just make up the fuel lines to suit.
You will need to make up coolant/intercooler hoses to suit as they'll be too short, as will the oil coolepipes.
You may need to clock the compressor housing on the turbo round to a better angle to make the pipes fit.
Jon
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Yes it should go on the outside of the pulleys. As it is at the moment its driving the water pump backwards! Its tensioned by moving the alternator - not sure what tensioner you're on about to go on the inside of - there isnt one!
Turn the shocks over too, and bin those god awful rubber boots!
Jon
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Dont know what someone was thinking when the did the fan belt, but its all wrong!!!
Shocks are on upside down too!!! I would be very careful to make sure everything has been done properly and correctly!
Jon
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Dont think there is a LR part number for them as they're an aftermarket conversion, and yes they're a bolt on job and use the same fittings.
I shy away from extra relays as its just something else to go wrong when its full of mud!
Jon
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No need to lift the head, but check the rocker gear carefully and replace all the pushrods.
Jon
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Would a standard 3 leg puller not do this job?
Jon
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I run just the standard halogen conversion bowls bought from Keith Gott's for not alot with 100w halogen bulbs siliconed into them so they dont fill up with mud. I find these more than adequate - in fact they're alot better than the lights on my car!
Been running them for years and the dipswitch on my column hasnt suffered any ill effects.
I suspect simply the purchase of new reflectors made a big overall difference!
You wont need to uprate your wiring and although technically illegal, what copper is going to take your headlight bulbs to check the wattage? I used to run 130w bulbs in my old red rover and never had a problem!
Jon
steering problem - twisted box shaft?
in International Forum
Posted
Yep - twisted box shaft - mine does it almost every time out. Just ignore it - you'll probably find that next time you go out you'll twist it back again - thats what i tend to find.
Although they twist quite easily they rarely break.
Jon