Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Jules,
Ben is driving the support truck - he's not actually competing.
Jon
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I've only ever cut them off.
Jon
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I'll be there marshalling/recovery as usual.
Current weather forecast is for heavy snow - could make things interesting!
Jon
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Disk handbrake is the way to go - much better than the orgional drum!
A standard series radiator will happily cool a TDi without modification. Why muck around with anything else?
If you can weld shortening props is easy yourself.
Jon
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I did consider washer pumps, but I didn't think they'd have enough pressure to be honest.
That said, they use them for water injection systems so I'd imagine they'd do an okay job.
A headlamp washer pump is a different beast from a standard screen washer pump. Take a look at them - they're pretty awesome by comparison!
Jon
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I bought my VDO gauges from http://www.egauges.com in the states - quicker service from the states than you get from many UK based suppliers and a hell of a lot cheaper to boot!
I have one of the dual sender units on my tdi and they work well. You just need to know what thread the V8 sender uses (IIRC its some odd UNC thread)
HTH
Jon
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I have a range rover washer bottle mounted in the back of mine, and I use the headlamp washer pump for this purpose. Simply with a long bit of hose attached and a simple nozzle turned in the lathe in the end it has a powerful jet. The standard rangie headlamp washer pump is actually very powerfull! You need a nozzle, as with just a plain bit of hose attached it empties the tank in less than 10 seconds witha jet that probably goes 5 meters straight up in the air!
A nozzle with a hole in it of about 1.5 mm or so gives me about 2 minutes of use and its great for washing out radiators, cleaning off lights etc. Hve a look at mine at the next shires event if you want.
Jon
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I'm running a disco 200tdi thats bolted in using the standard series engine mounts (mine was an 88" 2.25 petrol).
Defender LT77 and disco transfer box - this set up puts the gear levers in the right position, and I've cut away the series trans tunnel and an using a cut about defender one. The only mod I had to do to the seat box was to get it to mate up to the trans tunnel.
I cut out the bellhousing crossmember and the one that acts as geabox mount on the series. I replaced the bellhousing one with a modded one from a disco. You dont need the gearbox mount one as the LT230 has its own mounts.
Props are made up to suit - rear is just a shortened series rear one, front is a shortened rangie one.
It aint rocket science - you just need to make things up to suit. A bolt in mod it certainly isnt!
HTH
Jon
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I run mine in permanent 4wd.
Why do you need to move it all forward? My engine in in the stock location and with an LT77 and LT230 the gear lever positions are perfect.
Jon
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Ihave 2x standard defender ones in mine with 21w bulbs in which i find are more than adequate!
Jon
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Have you followed the correct bleeding sequence? The power brake system on these needs bleeding, by following the landrover procedure TO THE LETTER!!!! No other way of doing it will work properly.
Jon
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Thanks Jon, mucho appreciated.
D'OH!!!
Not even if with massive surgery??
Relocation of engine/tranny all the way back (better for weight distribution)?
Along with front dumb irons extension?
We might keep the Series axles casings, although the rims would be "ridiculously offset" to clear the tyres
Front wings and rear tub will be trimmed and stylish
Front bumper and rear x-member, all custom made to house the winches...
No - compare the lengths and you'll see what I mean! There is no short bellhousing for an autobox as its got to contain the torque converter! If you shift the engine and tranny back at all you'll end up with an impossible rear prop shaft as it will simply be too short!
The only way around it would be if you were to extend the wheelbase in the middle (ie move the entire rear end rearwards) so allowing a longer rear prop. However you cant move it back very far at all without having to cut the bulkhead out as the engine is only a couple of inches off of the bulkhead anyway. Dont forget the engine in a series is a long way back anyway due to the front grille being about 12" further back than on a coiler to start off with!
As someone said - rear suspension with well set up parabolics works well. Front can be made to move well, but eats spring eye bushes, and front axle tramp is a problem when climing. I'm yet to see an anti-tramp setup that doesnt limit suspension travel.
If you keep the series axles the limiting factor is shaft strength. IMHO you cant run much more than 33" tyres with series axles as the uprated shafts are not on the market at a reasonable price. I run KAM rear shafts, but no-one make uprated front shafts, and with 33" tyres they're on their limit. I am aware that there is someone in the states IIRC doing uprated shafts that use toyota parts IIRC but at the best part of £2000 a set I dont consider them to be realistic!
On the same note, I think I'd look into alternate axles - nissan patrol axles have a reputation for being bullet proof, or maybe hi-lux ones? Just a thought, as if you fitted disco axles you'd be throwing all the internals away anyway to run 36's.
HTH
Jon
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Right.....
If you're gonna be on an 88" wheelbase then you need to bear in mind that a series is set up very different to a coiler.
If you go disco 200tdi it'll bolt straight up to the series engine mounts.
BEar in mind that the whole drive train sits a hell of a lot lower in a series than it does in a coiler, so adding something in front of the crankshaft pulley will casue you problems as when at full bump it will get clouted by the axle casing. The axle casing only just clears the pulley on the 200 tdi in my 88".
Transmission lenght will also be a problem. You will not get a discovery gearbox in it as its all too long!
Auto box is therefore out as there is no way to shorten them!
You can fit a defender LT77 and LT230, but this works out about 6" longer than the series trans. The rear prop then instantly needs to be 6" shorter. You'll then struggle with rear prop lengths if you go with a salisbury rear as the salisbury is about 2" longer than the rover diff. I run defender LT77 and Lt230 with rover diffs in my 88" and my rear prop is only about 12" long.
Finally to suspension. Fit a decent set of parabolics, some 1 tonne shackles, and relocate the shock mounts and you'll get more travel than many coilers have got. The limit frankly is the propshafts. You will not be able to go SOA and have propshafts that actually work at full suspension travel. On mine, even with the highest angle U/J's you can get, and also having taken the grinder to them, they are still the limiting factor!
HTH, but its not all as simple as it looks. In addition disco axles - bear in mind that the steering linkage wanst to go through the middle of where the springs are. I've seen some horrible, horrible, ways around this, but frankly none that I'm overly impressed with to date from an engineering point of view.
You'll need wheels with lots of offset to give you any sort of steering lock with 36" tyres on, and will have to hack huge lumps out of the rear tub to clear, plus cut off the lower edges of the front of the front wings for clearance and also move the front bumper up/forwards else the tyres will rub on full lock.
Jon
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Er...... turning LR diffs generally isnt a clever idea, as the holes in the casting that feed oil to the diff nose bearing are then at the bottom rather than at the top where they can collect oil to feed to the bearings. End result is that the diff nose bearings run dry and the diff seizes. A guy i knew used to run turned diffs in a rear engined safari racer, and used to go through diffs like they were going out of fashion!
Is there no other way round it then running turned diffs?
Jon
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:-( can't make it.....I havnt been there for ages and was looking forward to it too!!! Bluddy missus has arranged something.....sigh.......when we there next?
Jon
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Well I've had both mechanical PTO (Mayflower on my series) and electric winches.
The PTO ones are, unbeleiveably, painfully SLOW!!!! The Mayflower/Fairey that I had was fantastic inthat it'd pull the side of a hous edown, and will run all day long, but it was slow, extremely heavy, and the PTO linkage with all the rods was complicated and high maintenance. BEar in mind that parts for these are horrifically expensive if you can find them at all. Lack of the ability to drive assist is a huge drawback IMHO.
I'm now running an 8274 with Xp motor. Frankly these days I wouldnt run anything else! I'm yet to need to double line it, the retrieve speed on it is so good that I dont even bother with freespool - I just power it out.
I used to have an M8000 on the front (its now on the back) but have to say that I'm not a fan of any of these lowine winches as the drums are simply not big enough. I'd buy a 2nd hand 8274 and nothing else!
Power wise its pretty simple really and doesnt need to be expensive. I run 2x cheapo 072 batteries permanently wired in parrallel, and a Mondeo alternator (£15 from the scrappies). I've never had any problems at all with this setup.
Ok - I dont do serious winch challenges any more, but I do a fair amount of marshalling at the Shires events.
I cant really comment on the hydraulic winches having never owned one, but i still feel that the lack of ability to drive assist is a drawback, and the milemarkers especially suffer as the lowline electric ones do in that they have a very small drum.
HTH
Jon
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I cut out and lowered the bottom of the one on my series.
Jon
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As it says above - search back through my old posts - I posted a how to do series rear disks about 5 years ago.
Jon
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Ok - a daft question - why do you want them specifically?
I used to run them, and whilst they're not bad off road, they're absolutely lethal on the road if the road is even slightly damp, and they howl worse than Simex!!!
IMHO there are better options out there these days - they stopped making them for a reason!
Jon
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When I first fitted discs to my series I used the standard (late) series dual circuit master with the series servo.
Frankly you needed both feet on the pedal to get it stop if you needed to brake hard.
A swap to an early defender servo and pedal box assembly improved things greatly. The defender pebal box will bolt straight onto the series bulkhead.
You then have a choice when I comes to master cylinders. Series or defender. Externally they're identical, but the difference is in the bias. The series one is biased 50/50, the defender ones are biased more towards the front (something like 60/40 but i cant remember exactly)
The series one will bolt up to the defender servo. I'm still runnign the series one, which I find is adequate, but if I was putting it onto a LWB or something that I tended to run heavily laden I'd be more inclined to use the defender master.
HTH
Jon
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John,
Have you looked at the Milner ones? Shaft in and shaft out etc and quick change ratios. Commonly used by the Safari racing boys so should be pretty strong!
Jon
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I'll be there marshalling as usual. If its a punch hunt then there'll probably be plenty of people to have to winch out again then.......
Wonder if we'll have to rescue the land warden again....
Jon
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If it any help Nige my mini used to do exactly the same with BPR6ES NGK plugs in it. I tried BPR7ES but it didnt make an awful lot of odds. I sold the car before i got to the bottom of it, but I suspect changing to a different brand of plugs would be worth a try.
Jon
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Are those elbows instead of bends on the rool bars???
Thats just plain horrible.....
Jon
electronic ignition conversion
in Series Forum
Posted
EDIS is far and away the best solution. Absolutely maintenance free and it'll run underwater!
Run on its own with megajolt lite junior its a freat setup for improvements over the stock setup without getting too complicated.
Jon