Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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None of the ones linked above will fit.
You need a drop PTO to fit a series gearbox. Nothing else will do. An LT230 one will NOT fit.
You also need the shafts, u/j's brackets etc, but be careful as there were lots of different ones and they never seem to fit right! With the sad demise of Phil Gordon, spares for these are now more or less unobtainable.
Jon
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I ran LT77 with 4pot defender bellhousing and an adaptor plate no problems. I run LT230 with permanent 4wd on the standard series front axle and have no problems.
I'm now running 200tdi, but the gearbox is still the same.
This is the best setup in a swb in my opinion. Rear prop ends up about 4 or 5" shorter but doesnt cause any problems, and mines got a hell of a lot of rear travel. R380 comes out even longer which will put the gear lever too far to the rear. You wont be able to run the factory V8 bellhousings for the same reason as its all just too long. (can get away with it in a 109 as the bulkhead is furher back.
I wouldnt entertain using an LT95 these days - parts are getting very hard to find, and frankly used ones are all knackered!
Jon
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The standard series rad will work perfectly with a 200tdi. You then only need an intercooler.
Jon
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Steve parker does an exhaust downpipe for fitting a disco 200tdi - why not just buy that and keep the turbo?
Jon
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Think I'd just fit a 200tdi and be done with it. Pick a disco lump up for a few hundred quid these days.
I wouldnt even entertain the idea of taking the turbo off - I just cannot see the point, or the benefit in removing it.
Jon
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No they're totally different.
Jon
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Sounds to me like its time to find another insurer! I've found there is a relatively short list these days of people to bother phoning. I've even had the "we dont insure rollcages", or "we dont insure bull bars" etc etc.
Try Adrian Flux - they've never asked me for an immobiliser and I've got a roll cage!
Jon
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Sorry - I read your post above as saying it had 5mm sticking out.
Even if its flush I'd still weld a nut to it! Its still possible if you're careful!
Jon
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If theres any bolt sticking out at all weld an oversize nut to it and then undo it in the usual way. The heat fron the welder will brak any corrosion and you'll undo it that way. I've never failed to remove things using this method. Those easy out extractors are really only any use if you've sheared something off by overtorquing it. They NEVER remove bolts that have siezed - I wouldnt even bother trying one cos they break too easily as you've discovered!
Jon
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Your best bet would be to weld an old nut to the end of the extractor and remove it that way - you;ll find drilling it out to be almost impossible.
Jon
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Tapping drill for 1/8 BSP is 8.75mm or 11/32"
Jon
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Nominally 10v is the correct replacment, as the factory regulator is a nominal 10v.
I've had nothing but trouble with solid state replacments so have gone back to the old dinosour technology as it just doesnt go wrong!
Jon
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Just bear in mind the od's are slightly different, but they're all so close that they can be bastardised into each other!
Jon
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Oh I should add in answer to your first question, G1/8 and G1/4 refer to 1/8 and 1/4 BSP parrallel i.e. not tapered.
You can read all about it here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_standard_pipe_thread
Jon
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Zim - it cant be 1/8BSP as the OD is too small!
Either 1/16 BSPT or 1/16NPT are the most likely.
BSP is 28tpi, NPT is 27tpi. You really need to get a set of thread pitch gauges on it to work out which one it is!
Only other possibility is M8x1 or M8x0.75 but these wouldnt be tapered.
HTH
Jon
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David,
Thats exactly what i meant! You just put it into the correct english for me! :-)
It doesnt surprise me that it doesnt work properly as its from and American supplier!
I've no idea if the ring gear from a 2.5 would fit onto the series flywheel, but otherwise its time to go back to the series starter.
The series starter is indeed the inertia type system and the solenoid is a separate unit thats bolted to the air filter mounting on a series 3.
Jon
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The series ring gear is not designed for this type of starter - the standard series starter doesnt operate in this way. This type of starter is similar to the ones used on 2.5 petrols in defenders. The 2.5's use a different ring gear that is designed for use with this type of starter.
The stock series one is pre-engaged and does not have a throw out solenoid.
You either need to go back to a standard series type starter or look into changing the ring gear.
Jon
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What engine is this on?
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1/8 BSP, 1/8 NPT and M10x1 are all very, very similar and infact will all more or less screw into each other as the threads are that close. All are more or less 10mm major diameter so its none of them.
1/16 BSP is the most likely but is a fairly uncommon size as that is 7.723mm major diameter and 28tpi.
Alternately it could just be M8 fine. Whats the pitch of the thread?
HTH
Jon
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Splicing?
Its wire not plasma!
Jon
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I've always used ATF in jacks and engine hoists without any problems.
Jon
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Kev,
If its larger diameter it will move less than a smaller diameter one, yes. However it will require less pedal effort to get it to move.
HTH
Jon
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In short if you've never rebuilt them before get a responsible adult to do it for you, as they are not at all easy to set up properly and need to be correctly shimmed and adjusted.
Devon 4x4, Ashcroft and other similar people will be able to rebuild them for you.
Jon
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Ive used conductive paint successfully on many occasions. Available from RS
Jon
Exhaust conversion kits 200tdi.
in Series Forum
Posted
The petrol exhaust will be too restrictive for the 200tdi - look at the peashooter tailpipe on one for example!
No idea if it will match up with the standard system or not - I just made my own up out of the old discovery exhaust.
Jon