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Jon White

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Posts posted by Jon White

  1. Trouble is the TVR appears to be a later 4.6 based engine, but still runs a dizzy and older 3.9efi style hotwire injection.

    Of course TVR no longer exist so simply going up the dealers isnt an option!

    I personally think he should just fit a 200tdi and be done with it!

    Jon

  2. Yes, me and Hybrid from hell made a batch of "kittygrippers" years ago.

    The angles and lengths of the arms are absolutely critical otherwise they simply dont work! We made several prototypes that didnt work before borrowing a pullpal one iirc from Ali Read and copying it!

    IMHO you're best off buying on these days as i reckon you'll struggle to make one thats as light as the one xeng make for example.

    Jon

  3. Yes I've stripped and serviced loads.

    Yes that sounds about right - should be fairly stiff to turn by hand, but should not bind.

    You'll probably find all it leads is a strip down, clean and reassemble with fresh lubricants.

    Jon

  4. I had one of the old Fairey units (basically the same thing) which I replaced with an 8274. Would never go back!

    The PTO is a pain to fit and high maintenance. It is also sooooooooooooooooo slooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow which was the main reason I took mine off.

    IMHO sell the PTO winch an buy an XP motor and some plasma and keep the 8274 - I've never even needed to double line mine!

    Jon

  5. The so called modern way of hacksawing the end of the crankshaft off is IMHO the most horrible bodge known to man!

    There is no reason why the end of the crank couldnt be machined, but trying to find someone with a suitablemachine and or fixture would be fun!

    The input shaft does have a centre in the end of it.

    0.1 tolerance will be fine - it reallyisnt that accurate, but bear in mind it'll need to be 3/4" not 19mm! I'd suggest buying a new spigot bush and machining the shaft until the bush is a nice sliding fit onto the shaft otherwise you'll never get the box back onto the engine!

    Jon

  6. It doesnt matter what you take off IMHO becasue the bronze bush is still the softest part. I ran mine for several years with a turned down input shaft without problems. Be warned though that LT77 shafts are very hard and a pig to machine until you've cut through the hardening.

    Jon

  7. They'll be fine - just adjust the lock stops to stop them rubbing on full lock. You may also need to pack the rear bump stops down to stop them rubbing the wheel boxes on full bump. I run 285/75/16's on my series on reversed rims.

    Jon

  8. I ran 3.5 V8 in my series for a few years on twin Su's. The SU's performed faultlessly, however it got changed for a 200TDi in the end cos I just couldnt put up with the fuel consumption.

    Biggest trouble I had was with waterproofing, which was eventually only fixed by fitting EDIS.

    Jon

  9. Does anyone know if Zeus Engineering are still trading? Been trying to contact them all week now about some power steering box seals, and their phone rings and rings and eventually goes into a voice mailbox for "Mark Cartright" and thats it! Website etc is still there but there doesnt seem to be any other way to contact them other than by phone.

    Anyone dealt with them lately?

    Thanks

    Jon

  10. Stick a set of pro-comps on there and things will improve. The ones paddocks and the like sell to fit a series will be fine and will cope with all the ariculation you will get. The procomps have internal bump stops so you can do away with the check straps completely.

    Front and rear will not be of equal length.

    Jon

  11. Headgasket. They usually start this way, and only overheat once the coolant has dropped too low (cos lets face it nobody ever checks their coolant regularly).

    Headgasket on these will not tend to pressurise the cooling system and will not show up a failed on a sniffer test cos they tend to go between the oil and water and not into the cylinders.

    Jon

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