-
Posts
2,541 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Jon White
-
-
Basically gearbox rebuild. Will probably need a new 1st/2nd synchro and probably a 2nd speed gear too.
Its never just the detent springs as people tell it is! You might get lucky and find somethings loose or similar but either way the box needs to come out and stipping.
They're easy enough to fix yourself though!
Jon
-
My truck is at standard ride height
Thats the best quote from you yet Fridge!!!
-
Er...... isnt a 109 fitted with a salisbury rear anyway??
Aint alot you can do with the front as uprated front shafts are made from unobtanium!
I'm running a ARB up front with standard (late) shafts. 109 should have the 24 spline outers up front anyway.
Jon
-
I just checuked the input shaft in a lathe and it cut no problems. IIRC series input shaft OD is 7/8"
Jon
-
Not thinking of finally investing a proper winch are you Nige??
Jon
-
Er..........hang on a minute............theres something missing from the calculation................
The weight of John's ego???????
Jon
-
James,
Both will be imperial measurements not metric!
Cant remeeber what they are however I'm afraid!
Remember to use phosphor bronze for the bush as brass isnt good enough!
I did this the other way around - I used a standard V8 spigot bush, but machined the series input shaft down to suit. IIRC the V8 bush is 3/4" ID.
Cheers
Jon
-
They dont work if you're running 15" rims.
Otherwise seem to be reasonable, just pricey. Appears to be a nicer kit than that marketed by Ti Console, or HEystee or whatever they're calling themselves now.
Jon
-
Remember if you need it re-setting I've got the diags for it (although you shouldnt need it if you're careful).
Jon
-
For metric stuff I use RS.
Ok - so we get a stonking discount through work, but even without the discount my local bearing suppliers couldnt get close to the prices.
Jon
-
Yep - cut out and rasie the wheel boxes up. Mine are +3" also and the tyres still rub a bit!
Jon
-
EPC only lists one part number for a Disco servo. Suggest that you check if its holding vacuum or not.
Jon
-
Series III senders both petrol and diesel are the same part number - 560794.
Jon
-
They do that becasue the 200tdi runs hotter than the old series lump did. Mine reads just on the bottom of the red. Either live with it, or replace the naff electromechanical voltage regulator on the back of the speedo with a 9v electronic one which will drop the reading to about Normal on the gauge.
I've not found an alternate sender unit that gives a senseable reading on the series gauge.
Jon
-
Wot he said.
HFH is wrong - 4.7's are NOT stronger that 3.54's. I got so sick and tired of breaking them I put KAM 4.75 ring and pins in in the end, and pegged them aswell!
I was breaking the teeth off of standard 4.7's with an asthmatic 2.25 petrol in my standard series on 7.50 mud terrains so a V8 90 with 35's will break them before you even get out of the car park!
3.54's are alot stronger by comparison.
Jon
-
Trouble with air suspension is most people dont understand it, and ty and fix it without the use of diagnostics etc.
Take the time to work out, and understand exactly how it works and it makes things alot easier.
If you do a google for EAS unlocker, there is a bit of freeware you can download to allow you to diagnos it with your own laptop. I have done this and it works well.
Jon
-
I used a hammer to simply flare the ends of the tube a tad.
Completely cured the problem.
Jon
-
These are BSF bolts - you need BS spanners.
IIRC the spaner you need is either 1/4W or 5/16 BS (they are the same size, but some sets are marks with one or the other, or even both!
Jon
-
I used aluminium pipe. You could also use exhaust tubing from the motor factors, but it would need painting obviously.
I wouldnt use plastic - too much risk of it getting melted for one.
Also i found I needed to flare the ends of the metal pipes to stop the rubber hoses popping off under full boost. You cant do that with plastic obivously. and yes, before any bright spark comes up with it, the hose clips were new, decent quality and done up tight!
Jon
-
Sill = Silly - feckin keyboard.
I run 285/75/16's on reversed 8 spokes with about 6" of backspacing. Standard 8 spokes have about 3 - 3.5" backspace. Standard series rims have even less.
FWH have no place on a landrover in my opinion and I would never advise anyopne to fit them!
Be aware that fitting parabolics with even standard shackles can casue problems with front props. Fit extended shackles and you'll definately have front prop problems. Not only are the sliders too short, they interfere with the bellhousing crossmemeber, and the yokes dont have enough travel. I've had to grind the yokes on mine to stop it binding on full travel.
Jon
-
If the bearings have broken up you will probably also need to replace the shaft and the intermediate gear. Check the bearing surfaces very carefully. You will also need new thrust washers, and possible shims too.
Its worth doing properly as the intermediate gear is often responable for alot of the noise in a series transfer box.
Jon
-
Weld them shut dukes of hazard style?
Failing that try looking at the 110 CSW parts book.
Jon
-
Superb!!!!
-
The wedges dont work as you simply cant keep the U bolts tight. You need to make a more permanent change.
I simply ground the existing spring seats on my front axle to correct the castor.
9.00's will run on the rear wheel boxes unless you cut them out, and unless you run sill offset rims you'll end up with next to no steering lock.
Jon
Walking on your roof
in International Forum
Posted
I do it all the time. Ok so mines a series, but its got a defender roof on it!!
I use it as a roof rack too - just chuck stuff on the roof and then ratchet strap it round the rollcage.
I've dented the bonnet by standing on it, but never the roof.
Jon