Jon White
-
Posts
2,541 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Jon White
-
-
Thanks for the heads up. Yes the selector rod area is my 1st choice of assumption. I'm taking the gearbox cover off today hopefully (ghetto rhino lining job) and yes it needs adjusting for sure.
Ok nice
... I'm actually thinking about just redoing the whole suspension b/c the leaf springs are so rusted they are expanding and aren't straight anymore... shocks are leaking so why not go ahead and just do the whole thing. Only a matter of time before something snaps with this old stuff.Take the rack off...thats just madness..
Fit a set of parabolics and some decent shocks and you wont go far wrong. Just be aware that new springs will lift it further (may be even more difficult to fit into your garage!)
I've never liked roof racks on landrovers! So many people drive round with them on, yet never actually use the damn things!
Jon
-
Probably oil seals, but series transmissions do leak, and there are certain leaks that you simply cannot do anything about. Around the selector rods is a good example of this.
As to your 1st/2nd selection probelms check that the revers gear flap thingy is correctly adjusted (haynes manual shows you how) as this can make selection difficult if its incorrectly adjusted.
If the trucks only got a slight lean, ignore it - you'll find one day it'll lean to the left, one day it'll lean to the right.......leaking shocks are an MOT fail so I'd change them first.
If you arent going to use the roof rack regularly take it off as they make an enormous difference to fuel consumption and make it a PITA to get into car parks etc!
Jon
-
My M8000 is held on with standard course 8.8 grade M10's.
Jon
-
How did it turn out? Was it as tasty as the human placenta he cooked and ate on one episode?
Ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww glad i seem to have missed that one!!
Jon
-
Why dont you learn how wide your truck is Barker??? I havnt smashed one in years!!! In fact I think the last one I did I snapped the arm off when I rolled it, but didnt actually smash the glass!!!
I'm convinced the only reason people need challenge wings and truck cabs is cos they cant drive!!!! That or they're too short to see over the steering wheel.....
Jon
-
Hmmmmm right - an entire winch with a wireless remote that cost less than the motor on my 8274.......
As Nige says - thats a very theoretical 12000lbs. I'll be interested to see what you say in a years time!
At the end of the day, you pays your money and takes your choice. For occasional, self recovery use of a relatively lightweight truck, you'll probably find it is perfectly adequate for your needs. However fr eavy duty use (I do a fair amount of marshalling for example) I think you'd struggle.
i'd certainly be interested to see an independant test done of the claimed pulling power of these winches cos I very much doubt they'll come anywhere near where they're quoting! Warn only quote 8000lb for a similar winch with a similar sized motor, and I'll lay money on which winch has the better quality motor!
Jon
-
Hugh Fernly-Wittingstall (spelling?) did fish on the manfiold of his series 2 in an episode of "A cook on the wildside"
Jon
-
You have to be careful in the car park there too!
Sorry - cant make it! So there will be no repeat performance....
Jon
-
On my series I've had in the following order:-
Warn M8000
Mayflower PTO drum winch
Warn 8274
The M8000 simply doesnt have a large enough drum. If the cable bunches up at one side (as it usually does cos you rarely get a perfectly stright pull) the whole lot just jams itself up.
The Mayflower would pull a house down, but was sooooooo slow, especially re-spooling the cable. Also the inability to drive assist and the faffing about to control it was a pain. They're also soooooooo heavy!
The 8274 is far and away the best winch I've had on it. Small, light, with a decent sized drum, and I've not yet needed to double line it. I've uprated mine with a 6HP XP motor.
Jon
-
When i did mine, I drowned it in plusgas for a week.
Then used a tree strop looped round the chassis and the trolley jack, and jacked it so the front wheels were off the gorund and kept going until the strop tightened. Kept pumping the jack until the strop tightened and it was no longer possible to pump the jack any tighter.
I then tried using a pickaxe head slipped into a scaff bar to make a 6ft long pry bar. This didnt do much good, and in the end the only thing that got it moving was beating hell out of it with the largest club hammer i could lay my hands on!
Got it out in the end!
Jon
-
How about putting some small 12v fans (eg computer cooling fans) in to shift a bit more air? cheap enough and available in various sizes. You could add one in-line to the feeds to each screen.
Jon
-
As fridge can vouch for, my series on parabolics with 33" tyres and series axles tramps and spring wraps something rotten, especially on the front axle, and its most visible on steep climbs.
I believe things may be different with the longer wheelbase of a 109, but on my 88" its certainly a problem.
And needless to say I still havnt got round to doing anything about it yet!
Jon
-
Its worth a try!
-
Well a series cable fits an Lt230 cos thats what I run on my series so it cant be that different!
Jon
-
Or just leave it permanent 4wd like mine is!
Jon
-
RS do them - part number 547-789
Jon
-
Yeah been there done that. It gives a nice shiney surface finish, but as you say damages fairly easily and then peels off in sheets!
And its bleedin expensive too!!!
Jon
-
I have one under the back of mine. Replace the motor with a 4.6 hp one and a set of allbrites and it'll work well, but be aware that in standard set up the motors are not sealed so fill up with muddy water and corrode.
Mine works well, but my only realy complaint with them is that the drum isnt big enough. 100ft of 8mm wire rope is really too much. I ran mine with 80ft for a long time, but have now gone over to Dyneema, but run even less on that! If its not a striaght pull the cable all bunches up on one side and can eventually jam up completely.
as someone said - buy one 2nd hand. I think I paid about £40 for mine as it was very very poorly!
Jon
-
The 16A plug on the welder goes into a 16A round pin socket.
How you wire it depends on what rating your supply is in the garage. If it is fused at 30 or 32A you could spur off of that for the welder socket as it is unlikely you are running another 16 odd amps in the garage whilst busy welding.
A ring main should be fused at 30-32A so you could spur off that.
The usual caveats apply........it is against the law to do this work yourself.
Steve
No - that is dangerous! In short it means that you could potentially draw 32amps through a plug and socket that are only rated for 16 amps.
Jon
-
The proper, and correct way to do it is to run a dedicated 16 amp supply straight from your fusebox, and put it onto a separate 16amp fuse/RCD.
You cannot safely run this from the domestic 13amp supply that you have.
Yes you do need the 16amp plug AND socket.
Plugging into the cooker socket will not make any difference as the welder and the extension lead will still have 13 amp fuses in them.
You should not wire a 16amp socket into a domestic 13amp ring main, as the standard fusing on a ring main is 32amps, and dont forget that the 16 amp plugs have no fuses in them. In short this would then mean that the only fuse in the circuit between your welder and electrocution would be a 32 amp one. Not good.
With the current Part P regs the only correct wires etc to install are to employ a qualified electrician to make the necessary changes for you.
It is majorish work as you put it, but I cannot condone the use of the "30 amp nail" in the mains plug, or other unsafe modifications to the ring mains of your home.
If you dont know what you're doing and arent qualified you have two choices:-
1. buy a **** load of 13 amp fuses and keep changing them
2. bite the bullet and employ an electrician to sort it out for you
I used to have one of these welders and it used to blow fuses for a hobby. Interestingly my 180 amp Cebora still runs a 13amp plug and never blows fuses. I think the cheapo welders are partly to blame.
Just to add I'm not an electrician! I'm just trying to keep people safe!
Jon
-
Thats the same thing. 601 is bearing fit!
Jon
-
I've always set pinion height by blueing it per the instructions here.
I was shown how to do it by the guy that does Jez's Volvo diffs.
Jon
-
Yes! Its impossible to correctly set the pinion height without using blue.
Once the pinion height is set, the precise mesh is set by feel.
Frankly if you dont know what you're doing get an adult to set it up properly for you, as they wear VERY quickly if not correctly set up. You need to set the pinion height first, and then the input preload by mesing with the shims, and then finally adjust the meshing.
Jon
-
Paddocks or any of the usual suppliers do the repair sections.
Defender ones are different but can be bodged with the series part (I have done so in the past), although I beleive someone was doing the correct ones a while back but cant remeber who.
Jon
... I'm actually thinking about just redoing the whole suspension b/c the leaf springs are so rusted they are expanding and aren't straight anymore... shocks are leaking so why not go ahead and just do the whole thing. Only a matter of time before something snaps with this old stuff.
Which is best.
in Series Forum
Posted
At the end of the day the claimed pulling powers are just that - claimed!
In actual fact I very much doubt any of the manufacturers have any data whatsoever to back up their claims. There have been some independant ones done, which have shown that the actual figures varied quite wildly from the claimed ones!
Jon