Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Liners slipped? K series have wet liners - can these slip?
Provided you fit all the later modified parts there is no real reason these days for a 1.8 to be unreliable.
Jon
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I'm sure that'll please Twizzle as he's meticulously saved the entire Disco front end loom and swapped it across...
D'oh!!!!!
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Also......why do you need unrelated tat? Who in their right mind brings the kids along to an autojumble anyway? If you want to buy tat and put the kids on a merry go round take them to one of the many other sunday markets / car boot sales there are about.
£5 is OTT for an autojumble IMHO. I'll pay £5 for sodbury cos I know its big. The Capel autojumble has got it about right IMHO - a couple of quid of so to get in, and no unrelated tat! I wouldnt pay any more than a couple of quid to get into something thats unknown, especially bearing in mind fuel costs when I'm going to be looking at at least a 100mile round trip to get there!
Jon
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Why would you want an off road course at whats supposedly an autojumble??? If I'm going to buy bits i dont take the truck due to travelling a reasonable distance. If I'm after big bits i take the works van. Like I'm gonna offroad that.....
I can see this would turn into something like the old Beaulieu 4x4 show was, with loads of trade stands selling absolute tat almost completely unrelated to 4x4's and very little to really interest people. the advertised autojumbles often ended up being literally a coupel of people selling.
I like sodbury cos you get very little unrelated tat. I dont like the things like the billing show due to the number of people selling pet beds, naff stickers, ornaments, clothes, adventure holidays etc etc etc.
IMHO there is a market for autojumbles, but no more than that. The shows are always naff, and always expensive to get into.
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Er............why??? Theres so few wires on a 200tdi it'll not be of much use to you.
Plus a 200 disco is wired up kind of strangely. Easiest just to re-use what was there on the series surely?
Thats what i did when i shoved a 200 disco lump into my series. I carefully removed the whole disco loom to swap accross but ended up throwing it away as it wasnt really much use at all!
Cheers
Jon
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I used sealey compressor oil that came fromt he local motor factors.
Jon
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I've got defender arches, bonnet grill, slam panel, windscreen, roof and doors on mine.
I think it looks much better that way, plus its alot nicer to drive. The windscreen makes a massive difference and having wind up windows is nice too. I needed the arches to cover my wider wheels and the bonnet was done in order to allow me to get a bigger radiator in to keep the V8 cool.
And before anyone asks its still on series chassis, axles, suspension etc.
Jon
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:-) I'm 6ft and dorve the thing - I just move the front seats down and back!
One other thing - dont go for the "italian job" style cages with the rear mount that goes through the parcel shelf. Its not strong enough for mounting anything whatsoever to!
Jon
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I had a rollcentre rollcage in my mini years ago. It was absolutely fine, however there are a couple of things to be aware of:-
Door bars make getting in and out of the thing a PITA especially if you have bucket seats.
A rear cage makes the rear seat unuseable if you get one with a diagonal (pointless having a cage without one IMHO)
The front cage gets in the way of the sun visors so you cant use them.
Finally make sure the cage is well mounted to the shell. It really need reinforcing plates welded to the bodyshell to bolt the cage to, as just bolting it through the existing panels is not strong enough, and in the event of an accident the cage will get torn out of the bodyshell.
HTH
Jon
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I've also been shopping for a "Mudpod" today in which I'm planning to stick a duplicate light cluster from a standard Defender dash. I've a motolita steering wheel which obscures a few lights already so wanted duplicate it all anyway.
Yeh, I doubt it's metric too, but I'll stick a converter on it all being well.
In which case go for the 1/8" threaded senders as they're alot cheaper!
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Are you sure that sender is the correct thread? I've no idea what a V8 one should be, I'm just a little surprised that it would be metric??
Jon
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Electric. Do you really want hot oil dribbling down the back of your dashboard when the pipe cracks? Been there done that.........it makes a hell of a mess.........
v8 will probably not make more than about 60psi at best - more likely less. I'd go for a guage that goes to 80psi.
You'll probably find there is a spare blanked off outlet on the oil pump base that you can use. If not replace the existing switch with a dual sender/switch whish i was I've done. VDO do some nice ones.
I wouldnt bother with oil temp personally. If you've a reliable coolant temp gauge, and the oil cooler is plumbed in as it should be its not necessary.
For gauges I'd recommend the VDO cockpit range. Suppliers wise try http://www.egauges.com - I found them to be alot cheaper than this side of the pond, and were on my doorstep the day after ordering (yes really!).
Jon
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Thats the solenoid valve. They are available separetely. Give Devon 4x4 a ring as they'll have em on the shelf. They're not cheap however IIRC.
Cheers
Jon
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Anyone know???
Their website seems to have disappeared and they dont seem to be selling stuff via ebay any more either.
Jon
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Something wrong with the Poll, no "Hydraulic" Option
Thats becasue nobody can wait that long.........
Jon
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:-) welcome to the joys of Slab common sand!
At least disk pads last longer than drum brake shoes do!
Jon
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Before anyone says it, no I'm not putting a Defender screen & roof on just to get a heated screen.
Why not???? whats wrong with a defender screen???
I an also recommend the use of a defender heater - more or less a bolt on swap for the pants standard series one!
Jon
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You could up the ante and use some glue or conformal coating, if your switch is the same as mine that joint between the brass bit and the plastic bit is the only possible place water could get in.
Yeah i'll let it dry out again and try that!
Cheers
Jon
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I take it by the feed back you all would be keen if we rebooked the site again once or twice this year
Er.........too bluddy right!!!! i had a wicked day............and I only bent my track rod double and added a couple of dents!
Jon
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Yeah I tried that before and it didnt seem to help, but it might be worth another go........
Jon
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Er Twizzle - did you check that on full bump the axle wont clout the drop arm? Every other PAS conversion on a series I've seen has had to raise the PAS box up quite alot to allow adequate clearance.
In addition have you re-inforced the front x member at all that we cant see from the photos, as you've cut alot of strength out there, and I cant see where you've put it back in.
Cheers
Jon
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You need to thin the 110 mount brackets down by about 1mm or so IIRC and it'll all bolt up - oh and you need to drill the holes in the end of the axle tube out to 10mm otherwise its nuts and bolts. I've posted before somewhere how to do it - its easy enough.
Cheers
Jon
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I use it to power my PAS!
Jon
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As it says really - anyone else had problems with the intermotor leccy fan switches as supplied with the X-fan kits?
I've had trouble with several of these now, (including ones directly fitted to the radiator) in that they seem to suffer from water ingress and then stay permanently switched on. Does anyone have a good solution to this problem, or is there a better quality alternate part available from another manufacturer? The intermotor ones appear to be fully sealed, but I know from bitter experience they are not!
I know that this is definately water related, as if I leave the truck in the garage for a few weeks to dry out, it all starts working again properly until it gets wet the next time!
Cheers
Jon
Freelander 1 HGF - Romania, 2008
in Freelander Forum
Posted
My daily driver for the last 4 years is a 1.8 rover 25 (same engine). I've done nearly 50000 miles in it and the headgeasket went about 20000 ago. I simply replaced it and I've had no further problems. I didnt change the ladder frame in the sump as it wasnt available at the time.
2003 model cars should have had the steel dowels anyway as these became standard from about 2001 onwards.
You do NOT need to change the head bolts as a matter of course. There is a procedure in the manual for checking the bolts that should be followed and then they only need replacing if they fail this test.
There is a modification on the freelanders that moves the thermostat to the other side of the engine. This should have been carried out to your car. There is a landrover technical bulletin that covers this and the modified parts kit is available from landrover.
HTH
Jon