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Posts posted by Jon White
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For £475 you can fuel inject the flippin' thing and have even better driveability than any carb setup.
Hell for £500 I'll to fuel inject it for you just for the giggle.
Hmmmmm........
I've often thought megasquirting an otherwise stock 2.25 motor and adding one of those ex-bmw mini eaton superchargers would be an entertaining little project.........
I cant see Weber selling many of those carbs at that price!!!
Jon
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I'm getting fed up with my top tailgate smacking me on the back of the head every time the gas struts decide not to hold the tailgate up so its time for a new pair.
There's someone on ebay selling them for £5 a pair, or paddocks do them for £5 each.
Anyone tried either of these sources as they almost seem too cheap!!! Anyone know if they're of reasonable quality?
Cheers
Jon
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See above - not a big enough market for it to be worthwhile! You see less and less series about thesedays now 90's have got so cheap!
Jon
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Oh - i forgot to add - lower tailgate needs removing (obviously) but you also need to take the rear bumper off and both rear outer wings (beware they are seam sealed on, and the fuel filler neck is a piggy to get out of the wing), light clusters etc to gain access. However the fuel tank does not need to come out. (I didnt).
Yours looks similar to mine, but my floor had bigger holes in than yours! I found that the crossbars that supported the rear floor were sound and didnt need replacing however.
If you get hold of an ally floor you'll find all the holes for the bolts for the rear seatbelt mounts etc all line up.
If you can get away without having to repair the lip that the boot floor sits in it'll save you alot of work, but I think you'll find its rotten!
HTH
Jon
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Err assuming its one of the early fairey/mayflower drum winches, if its absolutely complete, and in good working order they're worth about £200 - £250 tops.
If there are bits missing, broken, bodged etc etc adjust price downwards accordingly. These are not hugely valuable pieces of kit these days, and series ownership seems to be diminishing, and spare parts are extreemly difficult to come by. You usually end up having to either make parts, or cannibalise another unit for spares.
Jon
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sorry forgot to say its a p38
Well that says it all then..........pay the nice man lots of money to plug his machine in to tell you whats wrong with it........
Orrible things P38's........
Jon
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I've done exaclty this repair work to the rear of my 1995 classic.
Rear floors are not available from anyone except genuine landrover. I got the early ribbed ally floor and pop rivetted it in. However I found the mounting flanges all the way round my floor were rotten so had to get some repair sections made up to weld in to repair it.
Rear body crossmember isnt too bad to do, but you'll probably find that the body mount bolts are impossible to undo, plus as they're dropped in from above you have to cut them to be able to get the old x-member off. Getting the new one in is very very jiggly and was a right pain.
A proper spot weld cutter is a very worthwhile investment as there are a hell of a lot of spot welds!
i can understand why no-one would want to entertain doing it. Its a piggy of a job, and is very very time consuming. Plus you never really know what you're going to encounter until you start taking it apart. Plus most landrover specialists are not metal fabricators, so would normally not get involved in that sort of thing.
Jon
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Knew the company???
Er...........Webcon are the manufacturers of Weber carburettors!!! You cant get much more heard of than that!!!
Jon
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Er........you have taken the split pin, (or roll pin in some cases) out havnt you?
Jon
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Thats how I do mine. Hammer and drift.
Jon
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Weld it up. It'll be fine.
I've re-used exhaust gaskets before now without a problem. However dont use any past or gun gum on anothing upstream of the cat cos you'll kill it!
Jon
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No its alot smaller than that.
IIRC the main pipes are about 1 3/4", but the tail pipe is smaller still.
Jon
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Go with the MAP sensor.
There is no poncing about with sensitive electronics in a wet engine bay with that set up!
Its wot I ran on my carbed V8.
Jon
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Would a 1998 model use OBD? Isnt it too old for this standard???
IIRC OBD would not cover EAS either. This is a separate ECU, with a separate diagnostic plug and requires the use of Rovacom or similar to diagnose it.
i could tell you where they are on a classic, but I've no idea on a P38. ON a classic they're under the front seats.....
Jon
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Random thought, what about an alternative, as its a racer etc, what about an MPI lump......... bear with me, what i actually mean is the Rover Twink Turbo as found in 820 Vittesses etc.
I've often thought one of these engines would be good in a landrover. Marco Cosic fitted one into his series s few years back. I had a vitesse as a daily driver for many years.
There is no need for megasquirt or edis on these engines. They run coil packs as standard from 94 onwards anyway, and the MEMS ecu is actually mapped from the factory for up to 1bar of boost, (standard is 0.46 on early cars - later ones is lower IIRC). They come with knock sensors from the factory etc, so I can see no benefit in fitting megasquit.
Remove the cat, tweek the boost up to 1 bar, increase the fuel pressure by crimping the pressure reg in a vice and 250Bhp is easily, reliably available.
However the pistons in the later models are made of chocolate, so you ideally want the Mahle forged pistons from a pre-94 model.
If you want more boost than this, then its expensive aftermarket forged piston time and start playing with water injection and aftermarket injection systems. I'm told these can be got up around 400bhp.
However the one thing with these, even with the standard cars, is there is stuff all power below about 2500rpm. In a racer, where you're keeping the revs up this would probably be fine, but it'd be no good for low speed work.
HTH
Jon
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JU,
Yours is 12% different.
By my (admittedly simple) maths you'd need to use either the 20 or 21 tooth pinion, BUT you'll need to swap the speedo head for one from a SWB thats calibrated for 29" tyres.
If I've understood how it all works correctly.............
Jon
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Thanks Dave - thats easy enough then!
So is the LT230 speedo drive ratio:-
2.0:1 with a 20 tooth
2.1:1 with a 21 tooth
2.2:1 with a 22 tooth
etc
If so that makes it pretty easy to sort out then!
With the series gearbox in it it was always reading 10 -15% low with this set up.
Cheers
Jon
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Has anyone got any idea how I can calculate which speedo drive gear I need? Anyone written a wizzy spreadsheet etc for it, or know how to calculate it??
I've got 4.75 ring and pinions on 33" tyres. Speedo is a standard series 3 one from a LWB but I cant rememeber off the top of my head how many turns per mile it is, but I can easily look when i get home!
Any help will be duly appreciated!
Cheers
Jon
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Nope.
Jon
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D'oh! Didnt spot them when I looked at the thumbnail.........
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Errrrrrrrr.............thats a fuel filter............
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That looks betterer!!! You'll find that this set up works well and transforms the vehicle.
I sugesst you fabricate a braket to pick up the remaining bolt hole on the "ear" on the bottom of the box as it helps prevent it all flexing, and I'm told you run the risk of cracking the casing if you dont run this.
If you use a 6 bolt box then you only need to cut a small wedge out of the crossmember.
Jon
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Be warned that shoving a stock tdi in place of a V8 you will be disappointed performance wise.
I did exaclty this swap last summer - swapped a carbed 3.5 for a 200tdi. With a bit of fiddling with the boost and fuelling you can improve the performance so its not that far behind the V8. However the one place I do notice the difference is on steep climbs off road from a standing start. Its not too bad though.
The major benefits are, it doesnt get hot, it doesnt mind water, and I use a fraction of the fuel that the old V8 did!
The fuel consumption is by the best benefit!
Jon
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Propshaft U/j?
Jon
Top tailgate gas struts
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Thanks - a set of el-cheapo ones it is then!
Cheers
Jon