Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Hmmmmm mine sits at about 10 psi at idel when hot, but never goes much above about 30psi at any rpm.
Bit too low IMHO.
Think I'll have a look at the oil pump first as its easiest to get to.
I have no oil warning light - only a gauge.
Jon
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Hi Jon, I'd change the oil pump as I reckon your pressures are a bit low
Thanks Kev,
Thats kinda of what i was thinking too!
Cheers
Jon
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Why not just Pop that nice V8 you have on the garage floor with the Megajolt on it in it
Nige
Er.......... cos Mr Chancellor has just put fuel up by another 2p a litre..........
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Disco 200 will NOT fit a 109 without the manifolds changing.
Jon
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OK -200Tdi disco engine.
How much oil pressure should you have? Hot at idle I've got about 10psi, going up to just over 30psi at higher rpm.
Doesnt seem enough to me! I put all new shells in it when i put the engine in a few weeks ago (all the journals looked ok and were not scored etc). I've also changed the O rings under the vacuum pump that are renowned for low oil pressure but its made no difference.
Is it enough, or do I pull the sump and have a look at the oil pump?
Cheers
Jon
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Ralph,
Were these taken with the engine at idle?
Just wondering cos thats what my 200 seems to do. Hot, at idle I've got about 10psi.
I just dont know whether to worry about it or not! I put all new bottom end shells in before I stuck the engien in so was expecting a bit more! I wonder if the oil pumps poorly......
Cheers
Jon
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I've just had to sort this on my 1995 softdash rangie!
If you look at the inner wing there is a box section that runs along it at the top. Mine had corroded through on the inside of this box section through into the footwell. Yet with the outer wing removed it still looked comletely sound! I ended up cutting a section of the box section out, welding up the hole behind, and then reconstructing the box section again.
I decided this route was less work than taking the dash out!
Jon
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Probably not enough!
Basically a disovery 200tdi manifold will not fit a 109. You'll need to find defender manifolds, or do some modifying!
Jon
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No its "nominally" 10V. It consists of a bimetallic strip and set of contacts kind of like a set of points that open and close to give the nominal voltage. Horrible way of doing it. If you stick a voltmeter on it then you can see the voltage cutting in and out. I tried a 10V voltage regualtor first and it gave no change in the readings over the standard unit, but a 9v one gave the required drop.
Jon
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I've driven on Inch beach in Ireland, and then was told 2 days later it was illegal! Then again the Gaurda were on there when we got there and didnt say anything or try and stop us.........
Jon
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Right, I've just solved this on mine! On the back of the gauge cluster loose the "voltage conditioner" thats supplies "conditioned voltage" to the gauges. Replace with a 9V voltage regulator (mine was about 20p from RS). Mine temp gauge now reads smack in the middle of the gauge at normal operating temp, but if I short the sensor wire to ground the gauge still climbs to the end stops! Its also dropped the reading on my fuel gauge which is a bonus as that always over read too!
HTH
Jon
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Er...........havent been off road since fitting that yet! Still ironing out some "issues".........
Jon
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If its SWB 2 leaf front 3 leaf rears. 4 leaf rears are basically for 109's, and the 2 leaf rears are only really suitable for light weight off road triallers that never carry any loads of tow anything.
I run ES3000 rears, but ES9000 fronts as I had severe problems with axle tramp on the front axle.
Jon
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You're welcome to borrow my pressure test kit if you cant track it down - I'm not that far away from you!
Cheers
Jon
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:-) thats what i thought you'd say!
Jon
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Thanks Si,
they are only window lift drivers, but obviously the pin out needs to be correct to fit the PCB, but they're unusual in that there are effectively 2 separate change over relays in one package.
However a quick look at willow's wedsite shows something that may be suitable. I'll have a look at comparing the data sheets.
Do you know if willow will deal with Joe Public wanting to order small quantities? This is the problem ive found with most of the large suppliers in this country - not interested unless you want to order thousands of them!
Cheers
Jon
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Anyone got any bright ideas where I can source a couple of Fujitsu FBR562ND12-W relays from??
Rs dont do them, farnell dont do them..........they seem to be pretty specialist!
Ideally I'd also like to source a V23076-A3001-C132 relay, but Rs stock V23076-A1001-C133 which would do so is less of a problem.
Landrover relevance?? I'm replacing the faulty relays in the window lift Ecu on my rangie as its got to be cheaper to replace a couple of dodgy relays than buy a whole new ECU!
Cheers
Jon
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Sunning myself in the C.Z.
Cheap food and its warm and sunny.
Jo
WTF???????????
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I'd say it depends what bits you've taken off!! £500 is is the going rate for a complete motor. If all the nice (saleable) bits have gone then personally i'd walk away and buy a complete one, as realistically someones only going to buy it for the engine, so would be looking to sell the nice bits on to get their money back.
Whats missing off of it then?
Jon
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IMHO the problem is with reserve prices. If I see an auction hasnt met the reserve I just ignore it as do alot of other people. I reckon its better to set your starting bid as the minimum you'll accept for the item (more or less like a reserve).
I've had no luck selling cars on ebay at all. Everyone always seems to want something for nothing, make you silly low offers, or you get a super high selling price at auction close, and when you contact the buyer get asked to ship it to Nigeria etc.
I've found Autotrader to be the best outlet in all honesty.
Jon
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Er..........with a cooling system pressure tester!
Water pump sounds like a likely culprit.
Alternately you can try topping up the coolatn system, running engine until the cooling system pressurises and look for leaks. However its alot easier with the proper test kit as it means you can do it cold and feel for leaks without burning your fingers.
It'll be pretty obvious though if theres water running out the bottom of the timing cover with the engine running that its coming from the water pump!
Jon
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Pressure test the cooling system and check for leaks. Usual spot is the water pump as Les says.
If you cant find any obvious leaks and it holds pressure ok then its probably head gasket. You usually get a bit of mayonaise on the inside of the oil filler cap when it starts to go. Still runs absolutely fine, just steadily loses coolant.
HTH
Jon
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Hahahahahaha i know that feeling!!!
Nigel B came over at the weekend and i now have "Headley Scrapyard Open" written in fridge magnets in my kitchen! Missus thought it was hillarious!
Jon
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You'll definately get more for it if you break it!
I more or less doubled my money on it, and i kept the engine!
Jon
How much is enough??
in International Forum
Posted
Yeah - funnily enough I'd just looked it up and that was the conclusion I'd come too aswell!!!
Lets hope its the pump as I really dont fancy stripping the whole thing to sort slipped cam bearings out!
Cheers
Jon