Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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John - I prefer to eat my donuts............mmmmmmmmmmmm........... donuts...........
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Are you doing alot of road miles in it? If not then I wouldnt bother with the 2wd conversion. I run mind permanent 4wd as do a couple of other people I know and it doesnt seem to casue any problems. unless you run FWH the front shafts are turning anyway so it cant make that much difference!
Jon
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I bought one from Craddocks as Nige says and it was cr@p!
Les have you bolted the towing hitch on it yet? On mine when i did the bolts up the towing hitch crushed the box section as the re-inforcing inside it was too short and did meet both sides of the crossmember.
I complained on many occasions to Craddocks about it, and I have to say the cr@p quality part was only bettered by JC unbelievably cr@p customer service!!!!! I never did get anywhere with it and in the end gave up on it and now simply dont deal with them any more.
I similarly gave up with paddocks years ago after a number of episodes of cr@p courier syndrome.
i pretty much exclusively use Keith Gotts these days.
Jon
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Dunno about door tops - I've got 90 doors on mine so just wind the windows down! Its down to what you think looks best.
Jon
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I take the rear door off and shove a tailgate on.
Jon
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Yup!
Leave the sides attached to the hardtop and just unbolt it. If the fasteners are all nice and new its a very quick job.
Suggest investing a new set of fixings and some halfrauds ratcheting ring spanners and it dont take many minutes!!! I reckon even having to take my external front cage off i could have the roof of mine in half an hour and the cage on mine is a PITA!
Jon
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Er........if the fixings are in good nick it takes 10 minutes to take the standard hard top off without any modifications. Suggest replacing any mankey/rusty fixings with new ones and away you go - its only a few bolts and get a mate to help you lift it off as its a piggy on your own (although i have done it on my own).
As for seat belt mounts look at the way its donw with a standard soft top. The military style roll bar is one way around it.
Jon
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Solve the problem at source - buy a shotgun.
Jon
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SAG's were also uber scary on a wet road..........I remeber the back end stepping out on my series at less than 10mph on roundabouts in the wet.............
Weren't bad in the mud, but wear scary quick on the road and the noise...........
Jon
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as you cam see by one of the the photos that i carnt put a straight bar on . iv been thinkin ov boltin the bar from underneth instead ov boltin from the top .i should av clearance from the spring but i will lose ground clerance.do you think that will sort it out.thanks
The problem you have here is that its not just the track rod that is the problem. The track rod is simply the symptom.
Take a piccy that will show us what angle the diff is currently sat at, but in short, the problem appears to be that whoever did this conversion welded the spring mounts onto the axle at the wrong angle. At the very least you will need to remove the axle, cut the mounts off and re-weld them on at a better angle, but you need to be careful not to rotate the axle too far as it'll remove the self centreing ability of the steering, which in itself is dangerous. However you may also need to pack the axle tube up, away from the leaf springs to gain sufficient clearance.
What you have there at the moment can only be described as dangerous!
Jon
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Thats horrible!!!!! I'm amazed that has passed an MOT.
Can you post a picture that'll give us an idea what angle the diff is sat at as this will give the best clue. It looks as though the axle has been mounted with the diff nose set the same as on a series axle, whereas on a coiler it should sit at more of an angle IIRC. This may be part of your problem, but its hard to tell from the pics.
In addition I'm concerned about your U bolts. They appear to simply be made from threaded studding bent around the axle tube. Studding is not normally high tensile, so unless you definately know otherwise I'd be inclined not to trust them!
Cheers
Jon
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Another reason why I think that conversion is horrible, if not downright dangerous!! I've seen some horrible abominations done with bent track rods and all sorts to try and make it work.
In short the safeest and least involved way to sort it is to make up some spacers to space the entire axle up away from the leaf springs, and then use longer U bolts to secure it. You can then use the standard rangie/disco track rod.
Ok so you lose ground clearance, but otherwise I've never seen a truly safe, satisfactory way of doing it that doesnt compromise either safety, or the suspension geometry.
Jon
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Kev,
Quite simply I think its a grey area. My insurers didnt give a monkeys, and I've been through many MOT's without any problems.
Jon
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Wot he says. Grind until you can see a hairline crack through the weld (you need to grind more than you'd ever think off) and my method is to stand a large oak log in the rim and hit with the sledge hammer. Once you've ground enough of the weld out they actually come out fairly easily.
Jon
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Ah ok - missed that bit...........
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Oil filter prob??? What oil filter prob?
Theres no problem with it on Tdi - you're thinking of a V8 mate!
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I've got a defender one in mine. Works well and is pretty easy to fit.
Jon
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Ah cool!!! Thanks Rob!
Its got a 22t in it at the moment but I've not taken it down the road yet!
Cheers
Jon
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John,
No - I did take account of the fact that the transfer box ratio is irrelevant!
If you use a series speedo they are calibrated different - hence my origional post! There are a number of different series speedos available with different turns per mile listed - they should have written on them what the differences are!
Jon
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I'm wondering if I should make myself some rock-sliders/sill protectors before venturing into the car park
Dont forget the roll cage John - its dangerous that car park..........
Jon
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The one thing that you have to bear in mind is that this a public forum.
Anyone can read this, anyone can pick up the information.
I'll tell people how to do most things, but not something thats safety related.
One thing i will, and have posted in the past is how to bolt on rear disks to a series axle. Search back through my previous postings and you'll see that a rear conversion is more or less a nuts and bolts job. Its the front end thats tricky to make.
Jon
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I hate to say it, but if you're asking those sorts of questions, then i would seriously question your abiliites to make your own system. At the end of the day brakes are a safety critical part, so if you are in any way doubting your abilities then do not attempt to make something yourself. Buy one of the commercially available kits.
Tonk and i developed the kit using wilwood calipers together years ago, and it works well. But for the very reasons or safety, and potentially personal liability, i for one will categorically not tell anyone else how to do it. There are more than enough clues that have been given in the above thread to allow you to easily work out how to do it, and what parts to use for yourself. However if you decide to build your own, and you have a serious accident as a result of something you have, or have not done, then I for one do not want to be liable.
There is a fair amount of machining involved in making this system work. Do not for one minute think that its a simple bolt on job, as it is not. The hub needs machining, the disk needs machining, the caliper mounting needs machining etc etc, but you also need to consider the rear brakes to ensure that you have a correct brake bias. You need to consider the size of servo you have and which master cylinder you have. All these need to be taken into account!
i dont mean to be a killjoy, but this is call purely on the grounds of safety and liability!
Jon
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An ally floor fitted my 95 softdash rangie perfectly. I dont know who has told you otherwise, but i can confirm that they fit perfectly!
Jon
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Maxi drive used to make one that bolted on to the end of the axle tube.
The problem comes that there is alot of machining to be done, and getting custom made gears produced in relatively small quantities is very expensive.
From what i read the maxi drive solution worked very well, but due to the machingin costs and parts count they were not cheap! Frankly it was cheaper to put C303 axles on.
I think the issue you will find is that you can make something up yourself to fit on your own truck, but producing anything commercially means that the parts become so expensive that very few people will buy them! Can anyone reemeber what the Maxi-drive portal kit cost? I have a figure in my head of around the £2500 mark.
Jon
Series V8 clutch/flywheel problems
in International Forum
Posted
Er........yes there is actually! HFH is wrong for once!
A car flywheel will fit - eg. one from a rover Sd1. However they are much lighter than a rangie one, so you're better off getting a rangie one drill to suit as it'll be better suited to low speed playing.
Jon