Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Thanks for that. I'd prefer not to remove the valve block if I can help it as autoboxes are a bit of a black art to me and I dont want to upset it!
Sounds like its relatively straightforward then if a little fiddly!
Cheers
Jon
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On a ZF box- anyone ever changed a kickdown cable?
Box is currently sat on the garage floor - I've looked at Rave and it syas remove the valve chest and it all loks fairly straight forward, but it mentions a special tool to position the selector with when re-assembling - is this really necessary?
Also, as its on the garage floor, any reason why I cant turn the whole box upside down to do it as it'll be sooooooooo much easier? Is there anything likely to fall out etc if I do so?
Thanks
Jon
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Whereabouts is Jez? I think he's fairly local to me anyway?
I know I've bumped into him in Keith Gotts before now.
Jon
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I am indeed! I could happily get it to James Morfee if it helps!
Jon
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I'd also say that having order pre-fabricated bends from QT, and sent them back again because of appauling quality problems, I wouldnt consider using them!
The whitbread stuff looks quite well made (he was usually at Sodbury selling prefabbed bends). The bends look well formed etc, but i've no idea how well they fit to the vehicle.
The QT stuff wasnt square, wasnt evenly bent, and the bending had casued the tubes to ripple on the insides of the bend. We achieved a better bend using a cheapo hand hydraulic bender, the garage floor and a tape measure! They were square, and there was no distortion on the bends.
QT's customer service left something to be desired as well!
Jon
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Correct.
Modified chassis will require a new chassis number, will give you a Q plate, and will require an SVA test.
Level of modifications you can get away with is unfortunately open to interpretation, and is probably down to the individual examiner. But in short you cant get away with:-
Changes to the wheelbase
Shortening chassis rails (eg bobtailing a range rover)
Moving or changing crossmembers.
In other words welding a defender rear crossmember onto a rangie chassis would bee seen as a modification.
I think you'd get away with chaning engine/gearbox mounts, welding on roll cage mounts etc but thats about all. There are alot of hybrids etc out there that strictly speaking arent entitled to the plates that they display!
Jon
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You'll be fine so long as you're starting the engine. What I meant was dont hook it up to summat and then just wind it over on the starter - let the engine take the strain!
Standard starter will start the truck in gear in high ratio without any difficulty on level ground.
Jon
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But is there a bellhousing for an Lt85 to fit anything other than a V8?
As far as I was aware the LT85 was only ever fitted to the V8.
Similarly is there one from an LT95 that will fit?
I'd say LT95's aren't really an option thesedays anyway as there are no reputable companys that rebuild them anymore (I'm pretty certain ashcrofts dont), and pretty well all the 2nd hand ones about are knackered!
Jon
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Tried that today, brakes are a bit rotten as well.... and ran out of feet while either zooming towards my trailer going forwards or the trees going backwards. Comedy value was pretty good though
Images of me crunching it before I've even agreed a price came to mind!Ah yes - been there as well - stand on the anchors but the brakes are too cr@p to actually make much difference!!!
Dont be tempted to try and use the starter to free if off cos all you'll do is burn the starter out! You need the engine running.....
Jon
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Just to add what happens to these is the flywheel and/or pressure plate corrode and the driven plate sticks to them with rust. Block of wood on the pedal etc wont do any good.
Be aware that if you do manage to free it then unless you use it a fair bit to wear off all the corrosion then it will very quickly stick again.
Last resort is shift the box back 6" to remove the clutch the hard way. A quick rub over with some wet and dry (obviously dry) will be sufficient if the clutch isnt too worn, then just reassemble. It quite surprising quite how stuck they really sometimes when you come to take them apart!
Jon
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Just be aware that if the clutch frees and the kinetic is at full stretch you'll suddenly be freewheeling backwards at speed towards the tree!
Suggest giving it a belt round the yard and standing on the brakes first as its a bit safer! You'll probably stall it a few times but it should free off.
Cheers
Jon
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Manouver it into a suitable safe spot before carrying out the following!
Start it in gear, such that it moves off. Get a bit of speed up, and with the clutch pedal pressed to the floor stand on the brakes. After a few attempts it should free off!
I have also done this by attaching a kinetic rope to a suitably immovable object (eg a tree) and ensuring the towing hitch is sound and secure drive off as above - as the tension is taken up there should be a bang as the clutch frees itself off.
Jon
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On mine which was previously a 2.25 petrol, I just used the series engine mounts. They bolt straight up to the discovery engine. No cutting or welding required.
I moved the oil return in the side of the sump as I decided it was too close for comfort to the front propshaft.
Jon
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6203-2rsh - sheilded bearings. I buy em from RS they're only about £3 or £4 each
Jon
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Rob,
You're not the first person I've heard say the part timw 4wd kit is cr@p! i've left mine permanent 4wd and just run the standard series front axle. Seems ok so far, but I've not done alot of miles in it yet.
Jon
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Hmmmmmmmm thats worth a look! It is leaking oil at the moment, but I'd assumed it was dribbling out the bottom of the timing cover (its a tdi).
Cheers
Jon
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Hmmmmmmm thanks chaps.
I will check the linkage and the kickdown cable first just in case its something as stupid as that!
Failing that then i think I'll drop the valve block off the bottom and have a looksee - I've got nothing to lose as the box is scrap otherwise!
I've checked the rave cd and it says:-
No 4th gear D selected:-
4th to 3rd downshift valve stuck
or
3rd to 4th upshift valve stuck
or
Clutch brake 4 failure
I'm kinda hoping that as it came on all of a sudden its gonna be a stuck valve, as I'd be surprised if you'd manage to burn out the 4th gear clutches - much more likely to do the 1st gear one!
I'll have a look as it tomorrow night with a bit of luck.
Jamesmoree - you have a pm.
Cheers
Jon
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Squeak squeak!
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Ouch! That sounds like fun then! Thats alot more than an LT77! I reckon one of them is about 40kg odd!
Is there any worth in me dropping the vavle block out of the bottom of the box and checking for stuck valves as I can do that without taking the box out? I was kind of reckoning I've got nothing to lose as the box is toast otherwise anyway....
Jon
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I bought mine from Devon 4x4.
Jon
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Thanks chaps - the missus says she checked the fluid earlier this week but I'll check it again as I dont beleive her!
The fluid in it was changed about 10K ago when a new torque conveter was fitted.
Its kinda sounding like the box is toast then.......
Sigh.......anyone know how much one weighs? Looks like a piggy of a job to change!
Jon
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Anyone know anything about autoboxes?
The 4speed ZF on my RRC seems to have lost 4th gear all of a sudden. 1st - 3rd all work as they should, and change up and down fine, but it will never shift into 4th. I've checked that it is in D before anyone asks!
Anyone got any bright ideas of anything I can check/change or is it just find another autobox and swap it out time? Theres no mention of losing 4th on the FAQ's on ashcrofts site, so I looked it up on Rave. Rave says no 4th gear is either a stuck 3rd/4th shift valve or a broken no4 clutch.
Is there anything I can jiggle/poke/thump/worth a try?
Cheers
Jon
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Yes.
Any of the late models with ABS also had traction control.
Jon
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John - take a trip down your local agricultural suppliers - you want a "tractor" jack.
And no its not april the 1st - yet! Such things really do exist. Think about how you'd jack up the back axle of a tractor to change a wheel!
Jon
Images of me crunching it before I've even agreed a price came to mind!
EDIS sensor mounting 40, 50 or 60 degress
in MS-Megasquirt/Jolt
Posted
Er........ why the hell cant you get them perfect??? I did!
I made my trigger wheel with curved slots to allow for infinate adjustment to allow me to get it right. Has yours only got round holes in it or something???
I just slackened the bolts and tweeked it round a tad until it was perfect.
Jon