Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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If its only a single pin diff you want part number 599945. £8.88 ea according to my 2002 epc, or £4.95 from craddocks.
HTH
Jon
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Jules,
They're 7/16" UNF
Cheers
Jon
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That sounds promising then.
Rear end is easy peasy and is more or less a bolt on swap using defender/rangie parts.
I did a techie post many many moons ago telling you how to do it using standard rangie rear disks and calipers.
Jon
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The only comment I would make is that by machining all the webs off the back of the hubs have you not severely weakened them?? Theres a lot of strength lost by doing that! When i did my disk conversion I machined the centres of the disks instead so didnt lose any strength.
I dont know if you'd ever bend them, but I worked on the assumption that they were put there for a reason.
Jon
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Most likely I'd have said is that the PAS pump is on the way out, but do also check the U/J's in the steering column, as I've had similar to this which turned out to be one of the u/js almost compeltely siezed.
Jon
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Er.........plenium??? I was running on twin Su's!!!!
Jon
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All I can tell you is I bought one from Craddocks and it was cr@p quality (as was their customer service when I complained).
Jon
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I didnt drill anything - i just used the standard take off on the inlet manifold that the vacuum advance was previously connected to.
Jon
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Yep - thats exactly how I done mine aswell, except i counter bored my flywheel housing and used socket cap headed bolts. I posted it on here ages ago along with some pictures.
Easy to do, especially if like me you dont happen to have a TD flywheel housing kicking about.
Jon
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My god you lot are a bunch of tarts.........
My method:-
£20 for a pot full of Nato green paint from sodbury. Take 3" brush from shed. Beat with hammer a few times to soften it up. Dip brush in paint and apply to vehicle.
I can do my entire truck in 20 minutes. Dont bother with beating dents out, body filler, masking etc. Also dont bother with rubbing down, or washing the mud off.
Every now and a again a bit flakes off - I just touch it up again.
I kinda like it looking raggedy........
Jon
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Dammit I just cut mine off!!!!
I reckon my rear crossmember was pretty spectacular when Nige B's Mahoosive hydraulic winch failed to winch me out.........dont know if he took a piccy of it though.......
Jon
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:-)
I've used/seen used the sureweld ones, (ok "last years model") but they're basically the same spec. Nige Barker, and at least one other mate have Sureweld machines that they've been very pleased with. The supplier I approached also recommended the Newarc machine when they were quoting me for the sureweld one.
The sureweld one is here and the Newarc one is here.
I'd anticipate it only rarely being used to cut anything more than about 6mm so on that bassis wont be working too hard most of the time. I've only got single phase electrics so its got to be single phase. Inverter technology is best for me, as storage space is an issue, and I'd only anticipate it being used (relatively) infreqently.
Cheers
Jon
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Anyone got any thoughts?
I've been looking at the single phase, inverter plasma's, and am obviously avoiding the cheap chinese ones from ebay and the like. So far I've seen a Sureweld Plasma 41, and Newarc Plasma 40. Both single phase, british made inverter units with 40amp output. Of the two i think the Newarc machine has a slightly higher duty cycle so am more in favour of this one. Price wise both come in at just a tad over £500 +vat. Both are rated for up to 10mm steel, but the sureweld can do 12mm max, and the Newarc 16mm
Anyone got any experience of either of these machines, or got a specific recommendation for something different?
Cheers
Jon
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Les,
I've not had the sump off one either, but i was advised not to drop them in by a good mate who works for Kieth Gotts whose done more than a few of these. For the extra few seconds it takes I think its a worthwhile precaution all the same!
I take your point about the bolts - I would too in that situation.
Jon
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Looks like a defender bulkhead sat onto a cut about range rover chassis.
Main differences are:-
the trans tunnel someones already mentioned.
the tie bar for the steering column is not there on a series and neither are the mountings for it.
Footwells are a different shape.
Hole the steering column passes through is teardrop shaped on a defender one and round on a series 3 one.
Recess for the fuse box above the trans tunnel is not there on a series
Holes for the wiper wheel boxes are in different places
There are numerous other differences. Also note that a series 2 bulkhead is different to a series 3 bulkhead.
HTH
Jon
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Nice one Les. Couple of things i would add to that:-
When inserting the head bolts back into the engine gently lower them in and dont drop them. If you drop them in you can knock the ladder frame off the bottom of the engine which means you then have to drop the sump to retrieve it.
in addition you dont have to use new head bolts. There is a procedure given in the workshop manual that shows you how to check them.
Cheers
Jon
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Er......... thats a defender bulkhead!
Bear in mind I think someone like paddocks was selling brand new ones recently for about £250 ish IIRC.
Jon
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Just get rid of it. They're bloomin expensive and not really necessary anyway.
Plumb the rear output straight to the rear flexi hose, and add a T piece and tee the two front pipes into and then feed directly from the master cylinder.
Mines been like this for years.
Jon
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I just use parrafin.
Its cheap, doesnt smell too bad and is kinder to your hands than some things. Hasnt killed the pump in mine and I've had it about 3 years now.
I find that and a plastic "washing up" type brush for scrubbing works a treat.
Jon
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Shiney new pair purchased from Gotties this afternoon - sorted.
Sodding air suspension seems to have sprung a leak now cos it ends up leaning like a beached irish ferry after its been parked for about 10 minutes! That set of coils I've got in the garden is looking tempting.........
Cheers
Jon
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Thats what i was thinking - by the time you've paid postage as well it works out the same price.............might price a pair in Gotties when I'm in there later aswell.
Jon
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Er John - " is inches.........i think you meant 6'
Jon
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John,
No - there are various people selling NEW ones at around the £5 a pair mark.
I know Martin Toole - I've had a few bits off of him in the past.
Cheers
Jon
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Disco 200tdi will bolt straight onto the series gearbox (i make no guarantees for how long the box will last), and the series 2.25 engine mounts (if yours was origionally a petrol model) will bolt stright onto the engine and will line up with the chassis.
Otherwise its all farily easy and is a matter of making things fit. You'll need to some about a throttle linkage as you'll need a cable and not the series mechanical linkage.
I rotated the compressor housing on the turbo so that the outlet was ner vertically upwards and re-tapped the holes for the wastgate actuator. This makes plumbing it much easier. You need to clearance the nearside inner wing to clear the wastgate actuator (a couple of thumps with a mallet worked for me).
The exhaust is a pain, and there really is no option but to make one up to suit. Steve Parker does a downpipe for this conversion into a 90, but I suspect it'll hang down too low to be of much use in a series as the whole engine/trans sits higher up in the chassis on a coiler.
The oil return pipe into the sump also needs moving as where it is otherwise is way too close to the front propshaft. I welded the hole in the sump up and re-positioned it.
Otherwise its just a matter of plumbing it all up!
HTH
Jon
Diff planetry pins, are they available?
in International Forum
Posted
D'oh! Only available as the gear kit part number STC1768 (10 spline). That does include the pin however.
HTH
Jon