Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Just get the hammer out - you'll only dent it again next time out!!!!
Lump hammer, 6" brush and a tub of Nato is all you need for landrover bodywork :-)
Jon
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Glad to see you got your priorities right and took photos before offering assistance.
Steve
Absolutely! Well it has to be done doesnt it?
Yes- my truck sailed through its mot. The examiner even commmented that my weldings getting better :-) (I've been going to the same place for years).
Its got really quite severely dug out now. That pipe looks like a land drain and is about 12" diameter. I'm not sure if its got dug out as a result of the lane getting dug out, or if the drain itself has casued the wash out. Either way said land drain is now draining directly into the hole that Nigel was stuck in so I'd expect it to get more severely washed out with any heavy rain soon.
Jon
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Took my truck in for an Mot this morning, and as there was a traffic jam going the main road route home I decided to take the scenic route via a local green lane.
Needless to say this lane is no challenge to drive at all, I've done it a million times, but you guessed it - I got stuck! Still never mind, got a bit muddy, and winched myslef out without drama. Went home and thought nothing more of it.
Blow me if less than 2 hours later I get a call from Nigel Thorne whos now stuck in exactly the same place! Off I go again and I find this:-
He was in a bit of pickle........well and truely stuck, and he'd even managed to snap the winch rope trying to get himself out!
Front wing is a bit of mess....
Winched him out safely and he and a distinctly unimpressed Mrs Thorne were on their way!
Stickier than it looks that hole.......it never used to be this dug out!
Jon
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Do not use hylomar or instant gasket on paper gaskets. Either assemble them dry, or at most give them a light smear of grease. Grease can be useful as it also helps hold gaskets in place during assembly.
If the surfaces are clean and undamaged there is no need to use sealant. In all the engines I've built over the years I've never had a gasket leak if the surfaces are good.
I use spray adhesive to stick the timing cover gasket to the timing cover as it makes fitting a whole lot easier.
Exception is the Tdi sump which is siliconed on - there is no gasket. The ladder frame is also siliconed on.
Jon
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Snap-on man sells em.
Jon
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Wheel centres cut out and re-weled?
Is there a rim that could be used instead of a cut one? Or maybe a second hand set of 5 already made? Did you get your's done local to you?
The 7 in x 16 cut rim would look good on the 110 also. That's what I like about Land Rovers you can chop and change.
NOW LETS HEAR MORE ABOUT THE PAS. Major mods or easily done. One of my mates talked about a car electric type, any ideas.
Yep - centres cut out and re-welded.
I couldnt find anything that would fit with that offset other than the 10x15's tonk has mentioned. You could porbably get some made...........
I reversed them myself.
PAS is just standard defender bits and isnt too hard if you're happy cutting and welding saftey critical bits.
Jon
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Yes the 6" backspacing is in the rims. I'm not running wheel spacers.
Standard 7x16" 8 spokes - just with the centres reversed.
Yep - parabolics and 1 tonne shackels.
Well I've been running them for about 5 years now and havnt changed a wheel bearing in all that time. However I would add that it is a struggle to turn them without PAS. Since fitting PAS I havnt looked back.
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I run 285/75/16s on my swb series. I've got them on reversed 8 spokes with about 6" of backspacing, and run 90 arches.
With this set up the outsides of my tyres are where they would be on a 90.
I've also cut out the tops of the rear wheel boxes and raised them up about 4" for clearance, but they still rub on full articliation!
Jon
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I'd fit a defender LT77 via a standard series adaptor plate and an LT230.
Granted you dont get the advantage of the larger clutch, but you get a 5 speed, relatively modern box thats easy to get bits for. LT95's are getting very long in the tooth now, and the 101 bellhousing and input shafts are hard to find. You'll be lucky to pick an LT95 up 2nd hand thats not compeltely knackered!
Jon
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What about DVLA originalty points system thingy? Where do you for insurance etc as its not original or a like for like replacement im not criticising any mods people do but what happens if you get caught and they crush it? How do you prove that it is the same vehicle as the log book and plate say it is when it is made up of a mass of different parts from completely different vehicles all of different ages?
Read the DVLA points scheme regs carefully! You'll see bodywork accounts for zero points so you can do what the hell you like with it.
Jon
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Re the tyre wear, with the series in RWD mode on the road it tends to wear the rears out first. With permanent 4wd it should wear all tyres more or less equally. I cant see that overall wear will be any different.
As to the lump in the steering - not that I've noticed. It makes such a difference anyway, and the box is sooooo much nicer than the series one. Frankly unless you have FWH the front shafts are turning anyway so I cant really see that having drive on them can make much difference. I know of a couple of other people running series in permanent 4wd without any issues.
I dont do alot of miles in my truck anyway, so frankly it doesnt bother me anyway.
IMHO the commercially available part time 4wd kit is pretty carp. See the recent post from minivin for more details, plus why they cannot supply the kit without the utterly useless defender fitment FWH I cannot fathom!
Jon
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Go to here and pick vehicle enquiry from the menu down th elft hand side of the screen.
Click next on the next screen that appears, then on the next screen enter the licence plate number and pick land rover from the list of manufacturers. You can ignore the other two boxes. Click next and the info I posted above will show on the screen.
If you speak to DVLA in swansea they can (for a fee) provide you with a print out of all the information that they hold for the vehicle, including all the previous owners, changes of colour, changes of engine etc etc.
Jon
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Yes, but i think you'd run into problems if it was on a SWB, as the rear propshaft would be getting silly short!
Jon
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The 4.75's are Kam uprated ones cos I got fed up of breaking standard 4.7 series ones!
Jon
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:-) wot he said!
You can look up the above info on the DVLA's website for any UK licence plate.
Jon
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A quick checck on the DVLA's website shows the following data:-
The enquiry is complete
The vehicle details for SGV 213W are:
Date of Liability 08 09 2003
Date of First Registration 01 04 1981
Year of Manufacture 1981
Cylinder Capacity (cc) 2286CC
CO2 Emissions Not Available
Fuel Type Petrol
Export Marker Not Applicable
Vehicle Status Unlicensed
Vehicle Colour BLACK
Vehicle Type Approval null
The information contained on this page is correct at the time of enquiry.
Vehicle Excise Duty Rate for vehicle
6 Months Rate £101.75
12 Months Rate £185.00
Jon
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Thats what I'm running.
Diff ratio will depend on what size tyres you're running. You migth be better off swapping to 3.54 diffs if you're going to be running anything much less than 33" tall.
In my SWB I'm running Disco 200tdi, late defender Lt77, 1.22 disco transfer box, 4.75 diffs and 33" tyres and find its about right for most of the pottling about that I do. Mine is really used as an off road toy, and I dont do many miles in it, and those that I do are predominantly at less than 60mph. If I was doing more road miles I'd be inclined to change the gearing a tad.
Be aware that with 4.7 diffs low ratio is uber low. 1st low is kinda crawl up the side of mount everest on tickover low.....
Jon
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Probably be ok to just bung it up with a bit of RTV sealant for the time being and look out for a new 2nd hand hub.
Jon
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You need a defender LT77 as the gear lever will be too far back if you use a disco one, plus the disco bellhousing is much much longer than the defender one.
Transfer boxes are all the same externally so either will fit. The only difference is the ratios. You'll need to chop mounts, crossmemebers and propshafts about to make it all fit.
Jon
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Good luck!!!
I drowned mine with WD40 for a few weeks first (which didnt help)
I jacked the vehicle up by the relay, but also put a strop round the jack and round the chassis so that it kept the tension on and then pumped the jack up until i couldnt move the handle any more.
I then made use of a BFH, and the metal head of a pick axe that i shoved a 6foot scaff bar over the other end of thus giving me a 6foot long pry bar. Several hours of swearing, bouncing on the pry bar, and beating the cr@p out of the relay unit finally (eventually) saw the bugger move!
Worst comes to the worst you might have to cut a slit in the front x-member to free it, and then weld up again afterwards.
Have fun - its a piggy of a job!
Drown the new one in copper grease when you fit it. I removed mine several years later when i converted to PAS and it just pulled out the chassis with my fingers! Copper grease works!!
Jon
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:-) I wasnt intending to, but if it isnt too difficult might do cause its a bit mankey!
Part of me does just say leave well alone!
Cheers
Jon
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Yeah - I made my trigger wheel with slots rather than holes thus allowing some adjustments. IMHO thats a poor design from the trigger wheels lot.
Jon
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Ahhhhhhhh curved slots would bea far better solution IMHO as it allows infinate adjustment.
Jon
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Ah Ok - thats good to know. Can you offer any tips with reagrd to the tool needed for the selector or is it blindingly obvious once your in there?
I've got a decent (calibrated) 3/8's torque wrnech so thats no problem. I've changed the filters on these before but thats as far into them as I've ever delved.
Cheers
Jon
Shortcuts.....why do we bother??
in Getting out and about
Posted
Sadly I have to say that a great many of the local lanes have been afflicted by the same lot. There seem to be a good number of lanes where people have been going off the lanes playing off to the sides. Theres one over hindhead way that has been particularly badly abused in this manner.
Jon