Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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As to the +2" tyre rule I think its silly.
You need a max diamter limit - eg 33", else what happens is some enters a hole on 35's, gets stuck, digs the ruts out 35" deep, and thus the section becomes impassible for anybody else on lesser tyres. If the limit is 33" 99.9% of people will run 33" tyres and hence level playing field.
Otherwise you get, as is now the case with so many playsites (Slindon is especially bad IMHO) that large areas of the sites become inaccessable to people running on less than about a 37" tyre.
IMHO there is now considerable scope to limiting tyre sizes even for play days to stop further erosion of the sites. Otherwise if we carry on we're all going to be running 44" boggers just to get around the play sites the ruts are getting so deep!
Jon
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Jon, does that mean for Modified class pretty much anything goes within the limitations below it. ie a 3 winch, dual steer, twin lockers, 33" MT shod vehicle would be OK? as i reckon that would put the other more standard vehicles off.
ref above, if you weren't use to using/having a rear winch you probably would have approached the way you did, or if that was the only approach then given it a miss maybe?
I think a bit where you can be recovered by other teams (where the other team get a bonus for helping out) or recovered by a marshall and you then loose the points for that punch could be incorporated.
Sorry - didnt think of that lot........
Front axle steering only.
Twin lockers ok (for the reasons already outlined)
3 winches??? Where the hell do you put the third one?? On the bottom so you can winch yourself back onto your wheels once you've rolled it???
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My 2p worth would be:-
Standard class:-
Max tyre size 7.50x 16 or 235/85
No lockers
Single winch (alot of otherwise standard vehicles have winches these days)
Modified class:-
Max tyre size 33" with nothing more agressive than a mud terrain allowed
Lockers allowed
Multiple winches allowed
No tray backs etc allowed, no space framed (or largely spaceframed) bodies, no simex, no portals, no orange extreme suspension etc.
If you dont allow at least a single winch in standard class IMHO all you'll end up with is people hopelessly stuck all day long.
The trouble with disallowing lockers is what do you do with for people with say a detroit installed? There is no easy way to disable it, plus we tried banning lockers on some of the early HBRO challenges, and if you had them fitted you had to promise not to use them. It turned out to be unenforcable.
Equally limited to a single winch is foolish IMHO. I've had it before where I've wrecked the side of my vehicle, because I'm not allowed to hook the rear winch on to pull the arse end accross 12" and so away from the nearby tree.
Whoops - clicked post too quickly.....
I'd be well up for something like this. I always liked the challenge that Paul Whiteman used to organise, as it had a fun atmoshere and wasnt too extreme, although the single winch per team bit annoyed me (as above). However I think there is a need now for a "lower level" of challenge with the emphasis being on it being non-damaging.
Jon
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Sigh........and there was me foolishly thinking that rear halfshafts were made of twiglets..........
Jon
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Yes it does move to the other side. Thats part of the reasoning behind making your own exhaust downpipe up so you can make sure you leave clearance for the slave cylinder. You need to get the exhaust down prety quickly if that makes sense.
Bleeding the slave cylinder becomes a piggy too if you make it too tight!!!
Jon
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I simply made up a flange to suit the back of the turbo and then used standard pre-formed bends from the motor factor to make up an exhaust to fit. I wouldnt bother trying to do anything with the standard cast bit - I threw mine away and started again. Easy enough to do - just cut and weld the bends to suit until it all fits.
Jon
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Oh I should add that I've got one of Si's X fan switches and to date I've never managed to get the fans to switch on!!! Tdi just dont seem to get hot!
Jon
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Been there done that!!!
What temperature thermostat are you running? The series temp gauge is correctly calibratd for a 74 degree thermostat. If you're running an 82 degree then it will (correctly) read high.
200Tdi runs an 88 degree thermostat.
I've found using the standard series sender unit and temp gauge swapping the "voltage conditioner" for a modern 9v regulator drops the gauge reading so it sits nicely in the middle of the gauge.
End of problem.
Jon
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Er.........that'd do it! Series gearboxes are made of cheese!
Jon
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You want the Rave CD's mate. Do a google for them and download them.
Jon
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Nige, stick me down for a place if you havnt already please.
thanks
Jon
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You've been rumbled Jules!!!
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You liar John - re-spray?????? I thought you said you'd rollered it!!!!
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What the ??????????? are you taking the tiddle or what Nige?????
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I always thought V8's should be run on 20/50 mineral as the modern oils are far too thin for them.
Jon
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Info on the Maxxis stuff.
I've never found anything any narrower other than Simex's or 9.00x16's that seem to vary horrible in size, tread pattern and quality.
Jon
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Maxxis only do 12 or 13" widths however which I think would be too wide for a 7" tyre.
I did think the prices were very reasonable though.
Jon
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I've been told that this can be casued by knackered shocks.
Jon
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I get about 30mpg from my 300 auto RRC.
Jon
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Very good!
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Dropthe sump, undo 2 bolts andit all drops out.
How to check it isallgivenin the workshop manual. Basically you look for scoring,but there are also clearances to check with feeler gauges.
Havnt had a chance to look at mine yet cos I;ve hurt my arm so havnt touched the truck since lastweek.
Poxy space bar on my keyboard isplaying up too andonly works when it feelslike it.........sigh.......
Jon
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Take the rear prop off, lose the concrete blocks, stick it in 4wd and go for a drive. If the noise has gone away you know where youre problem is!
My SWB runs parabolics, with 1 tonne extended shackles (so has at least a 2" lift) and my rear prop is 4" shorter than stock so my rear prop angle is pretty silly. My rear prop is just a shortened standard series one, and I have no problems with the yokes binding. The front is a different story however.
Range rover props do have higher angle u/j's, and you can "adjust" them with a grinder for even more movement. I used a 4 speed rangie front one to make my front prop. However be aware that no coil sprung prop will be the right length for the back of your series, so whatever you fit will have to be shortened to suit.
Cheers
Jon
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On any other car that would be very dodgy, and I agree you did the right thing in that case.
However, putting a newer chassis on a Land Rover is a very common thing, either a newly made one (which Nige is correct, will not have a number) or one from a vehicle that has been dismantled for other reasons but has a good chassis. This will have a number, and I'm pretty sure the DVLA over here aren't too fussed as long as they are notified. My vehicle has a different chassis number as I found a good chassis cheap so it saved me buying a new one.
One solution would be to grind the chassis number off and claim it had a direct replacement with no number, then there's no question about claiming a different identity from the different numbers at any point.
No John - DVLA will not be impressed at all at you trying to change a chassis number. The rules are very clear - new chassis is no problem, 2nd hand chassis will land you with a Q plate and requirement to SVA the vehicle!
Jon
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12.9 has a higher tensile strenth, but is harder, so will tend to break rather than just bend.
Personally I'd prefer to bend one rather than it break.
Especially if you're planning to use them for snatched recoveries (don't bother I don't want to get into the fors and againsts of snatched recoveries arguements. lets just agree that they happen).
Jon
RRC 300tdi Autobox Replacement
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
The V8 one works fine - thats what my 300 has in it thanks to the previous owner.
Dropping it is not too bad, but the worst bit is getting to the bolts at the top of the bellhousing - they're a piggy to get to. Also make sure the dowels that go in the bellhousing are in place, as if they're missing then the flex plate lasts 5 minutes! (ask me how I know - previous owner again!).
Cheers
Jon