Team Idris

Yes

I don't really know? That AWDC north sounded good, but north is not getting closer to Gloucester if you start from Stafford 4x4 show in Stafford in March is the first booked outing, as I said it would be fun to be on the Goodwinch stand again. (Tea and buns supplied) Then a local trial to drive a bit, check for leaks, drive a bit and so on before hitting a winch challenge with the new engine and some more front locker action Team Idris is having a few logistical problems, so a pumped up hard core truck hasn't quite arrived at the right time, but got to make somthing happen some how

Ooooh, supercharging and turbo! Best of both or worst? I don't know as I'd fit both, but there are plenty of double turbo projects out there, so why not? If it was to reduce turbo lag it would definately need a charge cooler rather than an intercooler to get the full effect. The only supercharged Diesels I've seen have been Detroit Two Strokes in Terex plant. Isn't there a diesel two-stroke Yenbach (Turner) aftermarket engine for the S1? I guess that would have to be supercharged as well? I can't think of any major reasons why compression ignition or spark ignition would have major different responses to supercharger rather than turbo. You get more exhaust with more fuel in both. We went to a seminar where a bloke talked of an electric turbo. We wer'nt convinced, but a turbo with an electric spin-up would be neat.

Spill then? Share the wealth What's the story? Where's the locktight going ? Or, to put it more precisiely, is my next KAM nightmare hinged on a blob of locktight

That reads wrong. What I mean is, if the sun gear had forced the quill shaft out of it's clip, I would expect it to be still be out when you dismatled the diff. You'ld be able to pull the quill with your fingers, rather than have to bar it out. Once it all fell out and went wobbly the dog wouldn't engauge.

How do I re seat the quill ? There is no damage to the splines and will dremel the dog.....but what is the hole on one side of the quill for ? The hole in the quill is there to pull the quill out of the clip. You pop the end of the bar into it and lever it out. With a clunk it's pulled from the clip. You tap it back in with a hammer. If its not forced the quill from the clip I can't see what would push it back in while in the axel. The solenoid hasn't the strength. Check you pm as I'll send me phone number so I can explain what mine did.

Ive got an front axle of 97 Disco RHD. I will be fiting it to a LHD car and my question is which swivelpinhousing will fit ? As far as I can tell its the same part right through, except that early ones had one arm or two arms depending on RHD or LHD. The later axels on 90's had two-arm swivel housings on both sides. I guess it saved on casting patterns? So re-shimming the king pins should be the only major task? But this is landrover, so I wouldn't trust anything untill it was on the bench in front of me

I run 87" which would be considered very short in America. They like 100"+ so they don't flip over backward on rock (as far as I can tell). But most of what I drive on is so slippy I might not climb 40 degrees. The 80" does very well in the UK for the same reason, and has a small turning circle. So wheelbase is a complomise between stability on climbs and turning circle. If its tight forrest I'd say 90". If its open steep climbs I'd say 100" or maybe even 110". My 87" is the odd one out in a field of 100" trucks though. Unless the budget is low I wouldn't let the rear axel be the decider. With so many 90/disco/rangy aftermarket parts.

I've got a fair bit of metal around that back end as well to take the force, so its not ideal. But the hook does go through the slot. You pull the pin on the top horizontal roller, flip the roller out and the hook goes between the two virtical box sections, so the rope can go virtical off the winch drum. We don't do it that way as there is all the rad in the back to feed the rope through. But I have a plan for you so cunning you could put a nose and tail on it and call it a weasel Use a standard donut fairlead on the rope and make it fit back and top positions with a socket ! Or talk to Malcolm Whitbread about some bent up tube. I got my top rope guide from him and it was notched ready to weld. I'm sure he'll have an idea of what you want for the rear crossmember. He can do way nicer tube bends than me.

I too am thinking nothing looks wrong. With the quill shaft 'popped' you can remove it with your fingers. But if its still in its clip, you need quite a heave on a heel bar to remove it from the diff! Knarled dog is normal enough on anything over time. Ideally one half is softer and it looks like the outer in this case. I think in all honesty it was engauged but not showing on the light? What it needs is a 'disengauged light'. The engauged switch says the solenoid has traveled and the dog spring is compressed, but not nessesarily that the dog is engauged. The solenoid can only be fully out if the dog is disegauged. So a switch on the end of the fork would be better. So why havn't I done this? Its tight in there so I would have to use a reed switch and magnet, so I put it on the back burner until a rainy day. If it ever blows a solenoid, it will be well tempting to go for small air rams............

I'm on twin SU's, so I should get away with KAM half shafts on torque. But as your time trial and injection I think Ashcroft shafts would be a good buy, to fix the quill and be strong, while the KAM still have a good re-sale value (you'ld get 70% of your money back on the old shafts wouldn't you?) I'm Sooo glad I went Ashcrof front shafts There are times when following the herd is a good idea

On my rear diff it spat the quill shaft out. Same symtoms as yours. We stripped it in a field to see why? The first warranty fix was to build the diff assembly up so tight the sun gear couldn't move. That went right back on the pallet! I couldn't turn the diff with the wheel on! Then the quill-shaft location-clip slot was widened. Basically, the quill can now move around a bit without 'springing' the clip. An ashcroft shaft would hold the quill shaft in place without modification as far as we could tell.

I've gotten around to joining the V8 Owners Forum and a good source it is too. No answers for me, but a bloke has the same noise on a vid he posted there. If only he said how he fixed it Anyhoo, the engine looks a bit naked now, as i've got the tappits out to stare at them. Which as you know, means a lot of stuff is now stacked up everywhere on oily rags. I can see where the dipstick has been clipped by somthing (probably crank balencer) and I want to believe it is the problem. But as its drowning in oil down there, that is probably wishfull thinking. One poster on V8OF mensioned little end, but the pistons and rods have done 10 year in the other engine so crossed fingers it isn't that. The cam isn't free to end-float more than a tiny bit, so I guess it isn't that either.

A snatch block nearly does the same thing, but with a snatch block one rope fall is traveling over the ground. Admitedly this isn't a problem for steel rope, but it's risky with a synthetic rope. With a snatch block you need a place on the truck to hook the hook on that will take full line pull, which is more fabrication. A snatch block plus is that it can make more than double the pull, as it takes twice as much rope, which mean less winch drum wraps and more drum leverage. But this only a good point if the anchor point is half a winch rope length away. More than that and an extension rope is needed. It's a guessing game; What will be needed most? speed or force I run a 300 amp fuse with an M8 holder and carry a 500amp in the vehicle as spare. (bought in case a 300 was too optomistic). I think they are mega fuses. And my cut off is a Durite "battery Isolator Switch 250amp". As red key cut off switches were acting funny with us.

He says; "Also check you do not have a pushrod that is touching the heads where they pass through the small guide holes"

Monkey trumpets We recon I'm looking in the wrong place. (I was getting suspicous) I don't think we are at DEFCON "Coffee Table" yet, but we suspect a bad tappit. It was squeek, then knock, then squeek again. That suggests one part failing. I've sent an Email to RPI asking for advise, but I supect it is a manifold strip off anyway. Lets hope the block is okay.............

I like our 12000lb Goldfish from David. For a rear winch it is considered very slow for winch-challenge, but it doesn't give up pulling. And I'll use my normal argument about never needing a snatch block, less strain on the battery with lower amps from a lower geared winch and it allows more time for the alternator to do its job Plus it's got drum seals. (though many have now) If your running off the vehicles engine battery, then a winch that isn't working as hard will give your electrics less abuse. Best to add a fuse and cut off switch to the budget as well

I felt ARP studs were worth the cash. New higher torque settings are specified, but I was told the old settings are fine. We believe the actual clamping force is much higher as the ARP studs run a fine thread, whereas the OE bolts are course. Using the new torques the clamping force could be double? And the outer studs are only tightened to a tocken value, so the heads arn't pulled over to one side. I see later engines don't even have this row of external bolts. I have no idea where A & B engines come in. But I'm not a fan of steel head gaskets, even though the one on the S1 has worked fine for many a year. I think any gasket should be softer than the mating faces. But from an engineering viewpoint I would expect it to work better with the higher clamping force of studs. No head gasket lasts forever. Or to look at it the other way around; It'd be a good engine if it didn't like head gaskets, move the mains, eat cams and had a decent oil pump. So I've gone studs on the mains and heads, fitted a piper cam and gone dry sump. Maybe now it will behave. Nah

Not really. Just don't know whats wrong with it? We suspect it would have been less of a problem on 10/40. Upon cold starting lots of oil would have made it to the rocker assemblies and sprayed everywhere. And lets face it, warm oil is a further away than normal with two gallons of the stuff in circuit! (Maybe 20/50 isn't right for this dry sump application) The tappit noise must have been a speck of dirt in an internal valve? It went as abruptly as it arrived. Our assumtion is that a good workout out will throw some oil about and all will be well. Afterall, it starts and runs okay, so the actual buildup looks to have taken.

Did you know the rockers were handed? The push rod lube-hole goes nearest the pedestal, which makes sence.

I've gone for composite and an ARP stud kit. Bolting into an ally casting felt wrong Hopefully it will be a lot better than factory now? I got my heads skimed and the valves lapped at the same time, as the gaskets were showing blow marks. I'm also working on the theory that my fuel sits around in the tank a lot, so low compression is no bad thing. Its currently beer coloured. It's been a full rebuild, so I did the mains studded as well. I hear rumour that a tin valley gasket shifts more engine heat? And this was a fix on the LDV V8's.

If your on the road it would be best to switch the pump off. No point using fuel and wearing the pump out. Off road mine stays in gear all the time. It pretty much has a dog clutch as a cut-off switch if things go wrong. The dog clutch also acts as a pulley/sprocket support bearing for the pump.

Cheapest may be best, in the form of a direct crank prop shaft driven pump, but its a lot of work! I'd think gearbox PTO was a nice middle ground solution? I'd say a chain off the crank was best, but a long chain at that speed without an oil bath case makes me wince I did see a smart short-chain jobby where the pump was down the left hand side of the engine at the bottom. A bit like mitsimog's. Here's a nice belt one; http://www.hydraulic-components.net/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188&products_id=1001 for ideas.

Found it ! And wore it ! The page says; "Each rocker shaft is notched at one end and on one side only. The notch must be uppermost and towards the front of the engine on the right hand side, and towards the rear on the left hand side". Which basically means the rocker-shaft-assemblies arn't handed, but the shaft in the assembly is. When the rocker is operated the shaft oil hole lines up with a cross cut channel in the bottom of the rocker arm. I guess its there to let some oil fly about? The push rod seat oil hole is offset, so kind of gets a little oil. But going uphill, its hard to see how it gets any? Greecing the push rods blocks up the holes, so I blew them out with the compressor. All I can see is that the bottom channel looks shallow? Apart from the typical wear of an old engine I cant see anything wrong with it. Oil everything and rebuild I guess...

Yes Prior to coming back on line I'm doing the washing up and thinking; that drilling through the rocker arm probably has to be in line with the holes drilled in the shaft? Unles they are in the bottom, or the very top? The heads arn't handed, and have two oil ways drilled through, so It makes sence the shaft assemblies are handed. And I don't think there is enough oil about. Normally running without the rocker box on an engine rust proofs everything. I'm not seeing that much oil. But Rosies now borrowed both my wooley hats and it's cold and wet down there No Idea where the first one is...........