Team Idris

"Are you advocating the use of new lubricating oil for rust prevention in cavities and the like as opposed to commercially available corrosion inhibitors?" No I'm talking 'already rusty' rust prevention. As in; rust is hiding in inacessible structures or between spot welded items. Nothing comercial is going to penetrate the rust and clay crust on the inside of my rangy chassis. And it's looking like oil is the only thing that has any chance of keeping my 1991 transit going. Both, realistically, are terminal cases It is 'when' not 'if'..........

Thats very neat My other problem is that all the other belts (now 3) have their spares cable tied in place ready. Because taking the pto off is a pig of a job!

From the Landy's perspective its a very good thing to do. I saw a Mrk2 transit last year that had ther same treatment every year inside and out. Oil is the only way to penetrate some spotwelded joints. And nothing penetrates rust like oil (except maybe phosphiric acid) But why use old oil? New is cheaper than waxoil For the inside rail I am working toward welding up all the holes and leaving it with oil inside. This will stop muddy water getting in as well !

The powder coaters are doing my rangy inlet U pipes as I build a new filter. They are supposed to be masking the inside, and I wondered what to use if they don't ? So I was thinking gunwash. As a basic cruel paint thinner, I imagine it will have a go at plastic? But I havn't tried yet. To strip my small trailer wheels I too barbecued them over a drum fire. Then sand blasted them. But I wouldn't try it on anything that was flat paneled. I'd do a tow bar, but not if it had a tow ball fitted.

I'll chuck this picture in as well, as above doesn't show the raft plate;

We had the same dilema many years back, so we went direct like a JCB, but with a dog clutch. Its worked fine, but the chassis mods arn't for the faint hearted Last time I looked Barry Gee uses the same sump-raft. But I also saw a very neat hyd pump set up down the side of the engine where the early power steering pumps went. Either way up, we want pictures of your install

It's a mess to figure out! You might think that a charge cooler is best for short bursts of power and an air cooled intercooler best for continous use. But the 3416 CAT has charge coolers and it runs at 900hp happily all the while The normal intercooler is the simplest to fit and maintain, and it has some heat soak propeties, as the ally tubes and tanks take time to heat up (Joules energy per kg of metal per degree). But the long pipe work and header tanks increase turbo lag. What would be ideal is a turbo or supercharger right next to inlet manifold with a cooling system inbetween. And that's possible on the old TDi's and a lot easier on the TD5 with the head layout. Pop in a charge cooler and you get water with really good heat capacity making a small cooler package with less turbo lag. And the pre rad can go anywhere in a good air flow out of harms way. Great for challenge But a series system of intercooler and charge cooler would give the disadvantages of both as I see it. Complication, with the max turbo lag of both coolers internal volumes. It's worth pointing out, that although most intercoolers get the turbo air down to near ambient temps, many industrial engines use the engine water returning from the rad to cool the charge cooler. 70 or 80 degreee water may seem hot, but it removes a lot of the heat energy from a 250 degree air stream.

I went with the drilling as I reconed it might affect the magnetic field less? But it was a total guess It crossed my mind that it might be better to weld the fork to the plunger, throw the screw and drill right through with no cross drilling. Therefore removing all the metal from the centre where it doesn't really do anything, but I chickened out. Putting cuts in the plunger looked nasty (I have one), but it could be the best option as well as quickest.

The KAM excuse was that too much oil stopped the pluger working, but as it is under oil on climbs, thats a bum excuse. But you want the right amount of oile for the diff's sake I basically drilled two relief holes between the finish of the threaded hole and the solenoid body. Then a 6mm hole to join them to the trapped oil. The pluger does'nt go all the way in, so push it in as far as it goes and mark where it enters the solenoid with a marker pen. Then drill a 4mm cross hole just after the line. Then drill another at a right angle, say 6mm further along. Then drill a 6mm hole from the flat end of the pluger up the middle untill it crosses both 4mm drillings. I also got a 3/4" BSP female ally pipe boss welded to the case right by the fork. It's easier to fill, lower, and you can see the fork moving to check its working right

As far as I can make out Mach2012 is part of Ifpex2012 so I should be there on a stand for a day (Or wandering about) in my capacity as a heat exchanger designer

I'l take inspiration from that I was thinking of a machined bar with an 'O' ring groove, but this was clearly over zelous! A washer with the original clamp it is then! (assuming one day I cough up some wonga for a redundant sparky majig) If the fitting it BSPP have you considered BSP tapered? It's a naughty fix, and may not help, but it's cold out there, so I thought I would offer it up

I understood twin points were for high speed use so the points didn't bounce at high revs?

Yep, kind of why I parted with £150 for it! It's not the sort of thing that turns up very often. And that was kind of why the 1.22 went in tonight rather than the 1.6. For winch challenge it's a bit too 'useful' a ratio to just throw in without a full check over. And I understand the low cogs are all the same ratio? Tempting to sell, but it is now my only spare ? Old 1.2 has gone into the back of the van to be recyled. It's stinky, so the oil may have broken down, which is backed up by the gear faces 'look'. So it's posible gear twist is throwing it out of low box? New-to-us one has the usual brown inside, but it wipes off okay, smells okay and has good looking teeth. Terry Winchman says the oil looks to be synthetic on both. We were intrigued that the 4wd has 3 detents for locked, open and really open? Either that or the ball was coming off the end of the shaft?

Solihul is below right of Brum, so LRS challenge series would be a good watch There's midland offroad club as well with their RTV class. And maybe pop up the road to the Nottingham/Derby area?

That'd be nice and I thought it might be? But wishfull thinking usually doesn't work on this truck, it just bounces off into open wallet teritory But hey, it's a 1972 with some newer bits added, so I guess it's entitled So unfortunately not the lincage, which was bob-on. All looked good from underneath as well, but maybe it will look obvious on the bench. Even the detent sounds good, and it wasn't levering out of gear with a screwdriver. It's always been sound on the 4wd so I might keep the nose assembly.....

I've got an odd question about the transfer box on the back of my ZF auto I'm taking out the 1.22:1 LT230 transfer box because it jumps out of low box and replacing with another 1.22:1 which happened to be right next to the truck. (came free with engine) A bungee cord has held it in low since the auto went in a few years back, so it can't be megga bad, but the dog set looks okay. I wondered what causes this, and therefore, is it worth keeping for spares? You see, I've got a 1.6:1 in the shed, and it really comes down to; drag transfer box up many steps because it might be usefull one day, or; move it short distance to my van and into work's metal skip it goes! Call it recycling/rubbish limitation And my other question is about the oil. I see a lot of folks saying 80/90 oil, so I'm guessing EP90 like series, but neither 1.22:1 box smells like EP80/90 ? Am I missing somthing here on the oil type? Thanks for saving my legs

I like the old Kenlow one, but not the price of a new one But I see the twizzle's ebay bloke does all sorts. Maybe another type fits?

Looks good does that. Best move I made was buying proper ratchet crimps. Those flat pressed plate pliers just don't grab the wire like the proper thing for the job! I bet they've paid for themselves by not wrecking terminals (and then getting angry)

Sounds fair to me too. And my dry sump looks to be worse still as there is twice the oil. The thermostat is open and the tank is still cold. With the water jaket'd around the really hot bits I suppose it will get hotter first? Which is a good argument for a water cooled oil cooler

You need a turbo on a diesel car these days to sell it. No one would tolerate a slow car now And Diesels are more expensive, so it lends itself to additions like turbo charging. If your paying more, why not pay more still, for the full monty? But petrol engines are cheap, and I recon its cheaper to increase the size slightly that fit a complex high speed compressor. p.s. I hate guttless diesel turbo cars ! Energy; It takes the same amount of energy to compress air to 15psi in a given engine what ever the pump. The amount of energy going into the pump changes for that 15psi due to its efficiency losses in friction. It's just that one is shaft and the other is turbine drive. The turbo makes good use of the waste exhaust pressure, but Ilmoor have a double expansion engine that could be the next big thing? http://www.ilmor.co.uk/concept_5-stroke_2.php Just to really mess with your minds, an Intercooler or charge cooler might remove 20kW of heat from compressed induction air. That 20 kW is re-obsorbed by the exhaust gas as it expands in the exhaust pipe I only found that out yesterday looking at CAT data sheets. It's obvious, but I hadn't made the conection

Me too, but I can't decide if the jet of air should go into the exhaust side of the turbo to keep the shaft speed spooled up? But a venturi with compressed air up the middle on the inlet side would inject a lot of air... This sort of stuff could have been done 50 years ago, but the right sort of thoughts have to come together, and Kerrs has definately done that. A lot of folks are having a ponder on waste brake energy

Great to see it working. Well done! If there was a clapping hand imoticon, I'd stick it on the end

I stuck 2 virticals in, a winch drum apart. It made the winch mount a lot easier on the grey cells. My rear winch is inside the cage (one virtical wouldn't work for me if all was central) and I bet yours will be outside. In the unlikely event you should need to, you could send the rope out forward with twin virticals?

If you 'T' it in (done it meself before now) you read a conducted temperature rather than an imersed temperature, which can be much lower. I learnt this when I started testing heat exchangers for a living. I'm starting to think the best place to measure oil temp is just before the oil enters the engine. That's the temperature the bearings will see. (with a bit of heating or cooling from the block maybe)?

The filter element by-pass valve will be set higher than the elements expected back pressure with cold oil. So the extra back pressure could be the difference between oil light just on and it being off. But as above, switches can have different ratings. What you really need is a pressure gauge. Figuring whats wrong by the warning light is a guessing game if you don't know its exact setting. There maybe nothing wrong?