Team Idris

OOoooh it's winding me up now. I pull the rocker box and have a look about. All looks good. I rotate the oil pump with the 4th rocker shaft bolt removed. Oil issues so freely its off over the exhaust manifold. So re-fit bolt. I run it up and it is sweet. Then it starts squeeking again. Bad landrover Once it de-fumigates down there I'll remove the shaft and inspect the rockers and push rods.

I looked at the handed thing. But they are both tubes with wasted bolts? Thats a problem after a few hours running though. This is more like a tappit not filling up problem. I think this will be the order of things; Remove rocker box an check push rods. If they are okay I'll run it and listen. If I can isolate one or two tappits I'll use a greecy push rod to pull them and swap them to the other end of the engine. While I'm doing that I'll study the profile of the push rod domed profile. If the noise moves, we have a winner. (Or difinative looser) It'd be nice if I'd missed a bad push rod from my new donor engine (worse than old one in many ways) rather than get into a mess with tappit warranties. I can see why solid lifters are popular

Oil; Just for change I'm doing it right and have 20/50. (As opposed to diesel engine oil in everything) Have I been silly and relied on the supplier to 'sort me out' ? Apart from the squeek of dry push rods (I should have remembered that one) it was running great before. Even with beer for petrol ! (nothing lasts anymore) And this isn't a nice noise at all. I'll have a fish about tomorrow and see if I've caused somthing. It is of course, the rocker box which barely came off before I added the extra pipe work..........good job its rubber gaskets

No smoke is odd? Could be a bad injector done for one pistons rings. Or amybe even a holed piston. It still starts on the other 3 then, so appears okay. The usual test is to drop the injector pipe nuts to see which one is down on tickever. But this is very dangerous, as high pressure oil can get under you skin. If no one single cylinder drops the engine speed it must just wear, which may be just a re-bore or hone if your lucky

Spin the alternator backward for -12 ? Only kidding -12volt sounds more faf than a seperate +24volt. And +24 means a system that can be flatened right out, without affecting the trucks engine. Yes George, you'll get into trouble I recon I looked up motor prices to see what it would cost to re-grade your Tds 'for sale' to 12volt. It made it less apealing If you can get 24volt out of a trucks electrics, the second hand winch prices are definately lower.

3.5 V8 Tappit noise has been done to death I recon But I wasn't expecting it on my new build with new RPI tappits that match my piper 'max torque' cam shaft with vernier sprockets (Oh yes, the full monty) Weirder still is that it does it on a rear one, on the left bank at 1300RPM? Fine at tickover, and above 1500. Does it when at 1300 and momentarily when coming back down from higher revs. I got it hot today just to see if that would clear it, as it started doing it after not being run for a few weeks. When I first ran it after the rebuild I only got rocker squeeks, which I fixed with a dab of greece. It does it at various oil pressures from 50 down to 40psi hot or cold. iwas thinking that this tappit must have been the one compressed while standing and is having trouble coming back up? But why not knock at 800 rpm?

Mine might be SS409 then. Its been under the racer since we bought it back in the early 90's. It has surface rust thats like thick dust and goes down your neck. I was waiting for it to fail until I realised it must be a fatigue resistant stainless Both my landys have stainless flexible pipe welded in to take the load off the back pipe. The transit van was awful for eating exhaust silencers and pipes. Stainless has sorted out the back part. Only the front pipe to do.

Why not leave the landy electrics as they are and fit a 24 volt alternator and two batteries for a totally seperate system. (The winch challenge method)

That makes it sound as though there wasn't a diesel S1? I thought 1958 is the last year with 1118---- in short wheelbase. The S1 88" replaced the 86" as the extra frontage was needed to fit the Diesel. First S2 is an S1 with a fancy S2 body. Rover don't like change

Mega-Fuse is also handy if your going through to somewhere. Lets say you were putting in a fuse to a winch. Then the nut terminal of the mega fuse holder can have 8mm terminal rings popped on as well.

I've got that too. Its in a tupperware box to keep it clean. Best bit is that it has as many screw terminal earths as fuses. The fuses are split into two groups so you can have permanent live and ignition switched. Works best with crimp on rings. Very pleased with it. Exhaust bobbin is great for the high amp stuff Just don't touch it with you ratchet

I'm not a complete hooligan, but there seems a good case for putting my KAM rear half shafts on the Bay and buying ashcroft, before one shreds my diff bearing adjuster. As thats the same damage I saw at Penkridge in the summer on a blokes comp buggy. It's no the break, its the way it breaks!

"The thing I prefer with the KAM is the fact that it is electric," Thats exactly why I went with them. And its a proper big external dog clutch that you can see. And a warning micro switch in the diff to show stuffs moved. I'd say ashcroft shafts and KAM diffs were a good mix, but KAM's customer service has been absolutely terrible. So Ashcroft for me next time There is one thing with the KAM diff I'm not convinced about, and thats the contact area on the half shaft. To use standard shafts they put in a quill-shaft, which shares the half shaft spline with the sun gear. That leaves about 11mm of contact leangth on ordinary open diff operation. Now if you said an open diff put torque 50% either way and you only needed half the area I would say that was fair. And there are plenty of gearbox gears where the contact length is less than the diameter, but it just looks hinkey? If KAM got their act together they would do a lot better. It's got a strong diff carrier and the pan cover is tough. What I really want is a multi clutch plate diff lock like proper machines have

Nooooo, not KAM I've got KAM diffs front and back. Best to go Ashcroft. KAM have fibbed to me too much. Some people were adamant that the lockers were fine with standard 24 spline shafts. I would expect that if your not being daft and driving like a mad man, you'ld be fine. If you are beeing daft, (like me) it's a big wodge of cash for all the axel internals. But you can back out of a ditch on full lock and not worry. Landy's should have had lockers from the begining! As for the suspention, we're still happily winch challenging with standard shocks. It makes it less likely to roll over. And you don't have to be on full articulation to break drive on one wheel. You could be on the flat with two wheels in a wet bit

Give Malcolm Whitbread a ring as well. He may be able to help?

Is Dave Ellard changing his axels or just starting a thread and running for the hills then? Is the zuke getting a makeover?

It'll be driven constantly, but not necessarily delivering full pressure all the time. Or if it will deliver full pressure constantly, there may not be enough cooling in the system to stop the oil getting damaged. You'ld likely finish up with a winch that could pull as well as any, but be really really slow. Pumps are rated in cc/rev or litres per min. It's this flow that affects winch speed. I wouldn't say the conversion from mechanical to hydraulic and back is particularly inefficient as a general statement. It's just that 4x4 market isn't buying expensive 95% efficient pumps and motors But I bet ACE is a low spec, low efficiency pump. And certainly less powerfull than the power steering pump, which is a also a bit slow on a winch. (And hot running)

Here's a naughty one though. The weld ripped, which I havn't seen before. Terry winchman said there was too much heat in the weld. Personally I think CDS is less forgiving for home builds? You may think otherwise, which is totally fair Makes you think about how it might turn out though. The impact was hard enough to wrincle the chassis

If your not desperate to have a round gauge, what about industrial stuff http://www.sensormetrix.co.uk/product.php?id=396 with data logger? There are some cheap displays about, but I can't find my catalogue. But I went with capilary off a Fergie tractor, for an instant glance read-out in green or red on both landys. I took the white-on-black with F and C out as unreadable without staring

I'd have to agree with above. The formers are very critical, and good quality centre-push seems to be a world apart from a cheap one (Like our cheapy sealey one). There's no doubt the sand is a cracking fix for a good bend on a good bender At £350 I'm not seeing any risk. When I've rented that style bender in the past its worked well eough. But there's no mention of wall thickness? The thinner the wall, the nearer you are to needing a mandrel bender.

I'd say the perfect scenario occured if the centre line of the tyre was inline with centre line of two identical bearings. Then they split the load on average. I'd say the worse case scenario starts when the centre line of the tyre lines up with the outer bearing. Then it has the lions share of load and the inner bearing is just a guide. And pushing it further, so the tyre centre line is further out past the outer bearing, things get really heavy for the outer bearing. Then the inner bearing changes from a bottom load to a top load. Whatever the top force is on the inner bearing, it is added to the vehicle downforce on the outer bearing But all we really see is a reduction in bearing life. The outer bearing appears to be able to stand 100% of vehicle corner mass plus some more! So I wouldn't say there was a natural safe-point at which it suddenly went wrong with a little more offset? But a high offset with heavy offroad use will lead to a very short life if mud gets in there. So shorter inspection periods may be all you need to maintain a reliable vehicle.

I presume you have to catch them with a mouse on a bit of string?

Yes, that looks more likely Should have fitted a plate when I was in there really I guess. But didn't fancy drilling and tapping the block, Or mega jolt him. Or ignor the chance it'll make any difference at all ? As I come to think of it, the only 90 degree distrubutor drives I've seen, which have a chance of backlash, have an oil pump on the end.

Now I havn't got an oil pump for cam load, (dry sump) can I expect the timing to change slightly as the cam moves about?

Thats the one I was trying to describe. Not cheap if it goes wrong though. I had the later tin-can pump mounted in the same place for a bit when mine broke. Just a bit of bracket fab to make it fit.