Team Idris

"I thought I'd buy a cheaper set and if /when something breaks I'd replace that bit with a quality one." Sounds an excellent plan. The ratchet is the bit that you'll kill easily, so a cheap socket set and a decent ratchet works well. I got lucky and my cheapo ratchet takes a scaffold tube okay.

Pull hard enough and you get to the point you upset the chassis. And that metal looks plenty strong enough to do that I used to have wide clevis, but now have a large hooks welded to the truck. I like any recovery point that doesn't need a shackle for snatch recovery. So for the purposes of feedback; Is that way too big for normal recovery and is it safe with a shackle for snatch recovery ? I know I'm asking for a general argument about snatch towing, and shackles, and why this is bad, and thats good.........and so on. But I think your are after a connection that can take some real abuse

From what I've seen everything from a 130 down to a home brew 80" uses the same axel on tarmac without much fuss, despite a change in acherman centre point due to wheelbase. And above 20% slip, will it have any effect at all? Either way up, if you go hydraulic, sooner or later it will suffer the same shock-load failure, so you need one of these to get ahead of the game; http://www.flowfitonline.com/acatalog/DUEL_CROSS_LINE_RELIEF_VALVES.html . You can drive like a mega hooligan then Also, for those who want to protect the old box, there are ways of building spring overload clutches into the drag link. It's proper 'old school' stuff, but its an old school problem

I used to have the normal ignition red key, which later did the winch as well. (only an X6) Then I went split charge with two batteries, keeping the old red dash key and a seperate rear red key. (pushing my luck on a goldfish) Then MSA changed the regs to; 'Everything in one action', so i built this contraption. While assembling it I fitted a new red key for the ignition side and the large durite you see (more like the task). I wanted somthing smaller than the big Durite key unit I have on the van, which has proved itself a good switch over the years

No one has mentioned a smaller fan? An engine fan can help stop the heat build up around the turbo, so it's good to have one. But no reason it should be the full OE desert size in colder climates. If your S1 ran too cold, you removed the shroud and maybe two of the four blades. If it holds oil, it's now got a breather pipe on my truck

How are you killing diffs? If like me the pin gives out, then 4 pin P38 seems to be a viable option these days with some home brew pegging? Or have a sniff about to see if there are any cheap ARB carriers that will run, but no longer take the locker gear? I suspect material quality plays a big part in the cost of decent half shafts and CV's? Then the metal is of a consistent standard so someone can work out the ideal repaeatable process? Sending away for decent hardening process may make standard shafts a lot better? Han's at Rebel racing makes his own shafts, then gets them 'sorted' else where Seems a good time to be buying second hand shafts though the way the economy is

If you can grab the steering wheel and turn it as hard as possible without breakage, and the splines are machined right, where's the risk? It's as good as OE I'd say better than OE, but you never know which new part that is 'better than OE' is trouble because it was designed to be a weak link. Like fitting really hard bushes and finding you truck gains an apetite for half shafts. Bigger not always better and all that

This mine; (another durite)

According to S1 forum it is a number used right through, so may be may not be 1958. So I'll dig for that number

The timing cover doesn't seal to the block without silicon sealer? You're old cam might be in the sump, so worth looking? You're old cam might be in you're relief valve, so worth checking that too! Which is what I learn't from my 3.5 rebuild

I lend to people I trust, and it is not a big list My trailer wing is hanging off and the elec cable is worn through, and thats just Terry towing it back from an Event last weekend ! It'll get broke, you can garantee it

If it's the original 2 1/4 landy carb like we have in the UK, then there is stuff in the lid that can get blocked jets. And there should be a little pump to throw a squirt of petrol in when you work the throttle. So somthing is most likely jammed in a jet The water pump normally has a tell-tale hole underneath its bearing housing on the nose. It is just a 3-4mm hole between the seal and the bearing. If its issuing water from there then its a pump change. Normally a leaky pump is combined with worn bearings. If you can wobble your fan slightly back and forth, it needs a service pack or replace the lot. The rebuildable pump has a locating screw on the side to hold the bearing in place.

Is it that bad a job? As I understood it you dropped the lincage, then held a pipe near the inlet and listened. Then adjusted the tickover on both until even. Then refitted the lincage so they opened together. That's all I have ever done, and if any more than that was needed, I had somthing else was wrong? I'm not trying to be awkward, balence is tricky job, but you can get a viable balence on your drive

"It seems I can love and adore my landie 1 day then absolutely hate it the next!!!! Is this normal??" Yes..... And yes to the second, unless you do a full rebuild? Might still be the same amount of work, but now the bolts are free

Ooooo no, I didn't want to flog it, but hoping it matched mine I didn't see a date. I'll have another study.

Long lived as well. I've had one so long as a main kill switch I had to change the cross bar on the key through wear. Maybe 10 on-offs a week for 15 years. (hope I didn't just curse mine)

I went for Zeus as well. On the dust seals I filed a slight lead on the sharp edge to help. I didn't split mine, but it is wise to free the old pistons using the car brake system first. Then air pressure will pop them out. But be carefull as it is a finger trapper and the air aerosols the oil ! I wouldn't do anything to the old calipers finish wise until you are sure they are good enough to take new seals. My old ones were rotted out at the dust seal seat.

231601 Is it a series one rim number, and is it a number typical for chassis numbers1118---- ? Years back I changed to long wheel base rims, and my original rims went all over the place. One was at my dads at Bronant Wales, and as he is moving so he wanted it gone. I reconed it was worth saving being rivited and large numbers. (20 years later on) So I just got the tyre knocked off for a fiver to make room in the car. Have I wasted a fiver?

I got to see a truck issuing sparks before it set on fire I had a nice burger. I walked a long way and now I can really feel it

I was thinking of arriving mid afternoon Saturday. Will there still be some setting out to help with, or is that too late?

Very neat build I wonder if the tensioner could be both? Bear with me... What if the tensioner was on a powerful spring so it wasn't deflected in normal running, but could be flipped by a stone, & there was a stop/limit screw, stopping the tensioner from applying too much force to the belt? Cable stretch nearly culled mine. Great now it works, pig to set up. Pm me an E address and I can Email a piccy of mine if it helps?

I'm looking forward to getting myself down there to marshal with that line up

I'm going with a badly sized seal. And it just looks wrong for a crank seal? I've never had this in all the years of fitting, but I've never known so many 'bad' parts !

Sounds like a stuffed button. You can buy the switches okay if you want to go that route? Or Durite starter buttons ought to do okay and can have rubber boots on them. Maybe time to go radio remote ?

CAD, so you can get stuff lazer cut I draw the parts I need and CNC stamp them at work after work, or outsource if it's too heavy for the works machine. I just had three 6mm steel frames cut and bent for £112. A hydraulic press geared up with home made parts to do embossing and press braking would be well handy though