dag019

I have just had to do exactly the same thing. I disconnected the actuator rod and moved it out of the way so that I could get some grips onto the wastegate. It was very well sized when I started but some wd40 along the pivot shaft and moving it back and forward it did eventually free up so it could be moved easily by hand. Then just reattach the actuating rod. Due to the pressure of the spring in the actuator you are making things very very difficult for yourself if you try to move the wastegate with is still connected.

They should fit physically in terms of size, the wings have not changed, as long as the cut outs for the wing top vents are present. You will just have to be aware of what is under the wing when fitting them.

I have them fitted on the front for the same reason. I was missing one (mounting bracket had rusted away) and managed to contaminate my disks and pads on that side due to a leaking swivel. However, I didn't bother fitting them to the rear when I converted that to disk brakes.

Yes, that is what I have fitted currently. The approved rim width for this tyre is 7.0 - 8.0 https://www.performancealloys.com/pdfs/BFGoodrich-All-Terrain-TA.pdf

Surely that is not powerful enough to use on the font of a defender?

I have a 130amp on from a v8 range rover fitted to mine. I cannot tell you from what model I got it second hand off ebay and just looked at the pictures to find one the correct way around. But I could check the part number for you?

I have kind of accepted that but as said it will be quicker to do them all that way than wait for little electric ones which can take an age.

That sounds exactly the set up that I am looking at. Very basic and easy to install. Do you have any photos of your system? What do you mean by it is vented to atmosphere via the drier filter?

I have looked at these and am planning on following them however they use and airtank which i want to avoid if possible. I can get a disco aircon pump from a breakers for £30 and the oilers and filters are very cheap online. I can probably get the whole set up for less than £50. The electric ones are very expensive to get a proper one, and at home I have a compressor in the garage. Looking at tests and reviews for the electric ones the good ones still take about 5min per wheel, which at 20min a vehicle is a long time to be waiting to drive the next section.

I have just finished refurbing a set of HD (wolf) rims that i have fitted to my series 3. As expected the studs are slightly too short. Although I am happy with this in the short term and many people run like this without issue I would like to fit longer studs for piece of mind. Can some one confirm that FRC7577 will fit in series 3 hub?

Without wishing to hijack the thread I have been looking at doing this, as I like the HD wheels but they are not wide enough for my 265/75 BFG's currently fitted. There seems to be a lot of contradictory advice on the legality of banding and I want to be clear before I commit. Do you have any information about this? Also where did you get yours done, as with anything there seems to be varying qualities of workmanship out there it defeats the point of the HD wheels strength if the banding is then not up to the job.

I had this problem with mine and could not find a roof lining without the window cut outs so that is what I fitted in the end. I believe that the flat roof was fitted to the commercial vehicles which only have the cab section of head lining.

I did use proper spacers following the contour of the bracket so it was a solid piece of metal but i used the method and part numbers listed and had no problems. I also did not bother with the disk shields as I only have one left on the front and when that rusts through as well will not bother replacing it either.

I have just done this on my 110. I followed the instructions and part numbers linked below and used the diesel Jim write up for more information. I used the early front hubs with wider bearing spacing on FRC3132 stub axles. I found it really easy to do the conversion. http://www.landroverblogger.com/land-rover-salisbury-axle-disc-brake-conversion

I am currently hand roller painting my series. It is very simple to do, and in my opinion gives a finish that is perfectly acceptable for an old land rover. I am doing it piece by piece and removing everything that unbolts, easier on a series than a defender. Then i am stripping, painting and reassembling. If you were not as bothered about the final finish and were keeping it the same colour you could leave the vehicle complete and carefully mask it up and paint the whole thing in one. Doing it this way you could probably do it in a weekend. I have been painting mine since before Christmas one panel at a time. As with all painting the finish depends on the prep work more than the painting itself.

I use the cheap britpart filters on mine, but when I am running it on oil I change the filter regularly at about 2000 miles. I only run it in the summer months and go back to pure diesel for the colder weather. I add 25l and then fill the tank (standard 110 tank) with diesel so I would guess that's about 30/70. I have been doing this for 6 years with filtered waste oil with no problems

That is great thank you, I will have a look at the earth securing points and possible do what I have done with the lights and add a new earth point direct to the battery. Hopefully, this will solve the charge light as well.

I have a couple of problems with my dash wiring. The first problem I have a am guessing is an earth fault. When I turn the headlights onto main beam the speedo dash light goes off and the glow plug light comes on. Does an earth fault sound right? More worrying is that on my last journey the battery charge light came on. It was full brightness but it did not come on and stay on. It would occasionally go out but then come back on. Does this sound like it is likely to be related to the other problem or is this a new problem with the alternator?

They are all the same as far as i have found, but i would recommend running a bead of silicone around the joint in the rim to try and prevent them from rusting where water sits in the crack.

Well the panel had been riveted in and then painted over. So I drilled them out and removed the panel only to find that the filler neck was was held in place with self tapping screws. but The hasp is fitted now even if it took much longer than needed.

short wheel base. I will have another look in the morning. I hope you are right, it would make everything a lot easier

I know the panel you are talking about I had already looked at this, as you say with that removed you would have easy access. But I cannot see how it is attached to the rear body so I assumed it was spot welded.

Up until now i have not had any way of locking the fuel cap making it very easy for any one inclined to do so to steal my precious fuel. I have bought one of the locking hasps and plan on fitting it over the weekend. Where as it should be a very simple job on reading around it looks as if I will need to remove the fuel tank to access the nuts securing it in place. Is there any way of fitting it without dropping the tank? Also, as I have seen both on other people land rovers should it be mounted above of below the filler cap?

I replace the manifold to day and everything came out and went back on perfectly until I came to refit the down pipe. The triangular clamp looks to be too large and the three holes do not line up with the three studs. Were there different manifold or exhaust pipe available? The old manifold had had the studs drilled out (badly, one of the holes had cracked) which may have been to fit the larger clamp when the PO fitted it.