Boris113

I used to use screwfix, they are cheap and have quick delivery. Try a place called Cotswold fasteners, they are a big mail order set up and are very cheap. I don't know if they have a website though, I go to their outlet as it's only a few miles away. Harry

Morning all, Over the weekend I stripped the tub/seatbox/doors off the 90 ready to fit the new ones and weld the chassis for the MOT. Sadly afer getting a little enthusiastic with the hammer, it turns out that instead of just a tub outrigger, I now need new bulkhead outriggers, both tub outriggers, both dumbirons and welding to the rear chassis legs also. As a result I'm going to fit a galv chassis, the 90 is my only vehicle and i have no plans to sell it so it's worthwhile doing. I will most likely go for a Marslands version, Richards are significantly more expensive. At the moment my 90 is an F-reg 1989 90 with it's standard lt77 but a discovery 300tdi, meaning the engine sits a long way back and I can't use a standard chassis. I would rather pay to have the chassis altered/made correctly prior to galvanising so going to ask Marslands to fit LT77/300tdi mounts in the correct place and also not to fit the anti-roll bar mounts as I'm never going to use them and it's another thing to damage off road. I think I will need altered radiator mounts but not too sure, It's using the disco 300 rad/intercooler with extended pipework, does this mean the chassis mounts will require lowering? Can you guys think of anything that is worth changing/specifying before i order it? I will fit rollcage mounts at a later date because I can't decide whether to fit my internal cage back in or sell it and buy an external version yet. Thanks in advance, Harry

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=175943844856 have a look on here, they update it pretty regularly, it covers tixover and yarwell

A friend of mine runs an 04 110 DC, he absolutely loves it but complains that it's horrible on the motorway, he reckons once the remap is done and a disco transfer box is fitted it will be perfect though. No major mechanical problems with his so far

I would advise replacing the arm, if the gaiter isn't fixed properly then carp and grit will get in and cause premature wear. I don't know if they are all the same but I have one that came off my 90, think the ball joint is even in good nick. I ditched it to fit a disco type set-up Harry

Thanks Mo, after going a little crazy with a wire brush underneath and then sand paper externally, I think I will be investing in a fair bit of etch primer! Harry

So I went shopping yesterday, got a good zinc primer, some combi-colour chassis black then finally some hammerite underseal with waxoyl in it. I pressure washed the underside of the tub yesterday and after scraping off the think oily deposits, there is quite a lot of paint that has come off (electrolytic) Because it's the underside, would it be ok to use a fine wire brush on the end of a drill to clean it up? Also would these areas require etch primer once cleaned because it will be bare alloy? The bloke in the shop told me this zinc primer will stick to bare alloy but it's not an etch primer? Thanks, Harry

Thank you for all the help, in the end I bought a set of wipac because they were on offer at my local landy place for a full set including the converter plugs. I started stripping down my replacement rear tub yesterday and it has the later 2-screw rear lights, and it looks like the holes are a lot bigger so I don't need to cut out the rear ones just connect up the wiring as my 90 is a 1989 with the earlier type lights and no converter plugs Thanks, Harry

Thanks everyone, NAS lights it is Litch, dad has the same light layout as you and the mantec swing away is a very tight fit! Is there anywhere I can buy a set of perei ones from? I have found odd ones but not even a place that stocks the whole range. Also what size hole is required to fit them? Obviously a hole saw will jump around because the existing hole is too big to hold the centre drill bit, but could I use one of those cone-shaped step cutters on a drill? Thanks for all the advice so far

I have been with the NFU since I was 17 and always found them very good, especially considering my 90 has been converted to 300tdi, soft top, lifted, disco axles, larger tyres and a whole lot more. They even said I could put a 3.5v8 in my series 3 with no increase in my premium (i was 17 at the time) They are always quick to help and also pay out very quickly when you have a whoopsy. I rang adrian flux at christmas because the NFU got a bit iffy about me fitting a roll cage and they quoted me £100 less than the NFU did, but because I'm 20, they couldn't offer me 3rd party cover on any vehicle which NFU do. In the end I stuck with NFU and havn't got round to fitting the cage but come renewal time at christmas, i'll probably try elsewhere. Harry

I'm going to be putting a new rear tub and seatbox on my 90 next weekend and was considering fitting NAS spec lights to the rear at the same time. My rear lights have taken a bit of a battering and the bulb holders aren't great so was going to buy a full set of standard Wipac rear lights but the NAS spec ones are only £15 more for the set. Dad has them on his 90 and they are pretty bright but just wondered what they are like in general? Are they well built or do they often have problems and is it worth fitting them over standard ones? Thanks, Harry

Mine used to do this, cleaning the battery terminals and clamps made it stay on for a slightly shorter time (they were pretty bad). When i put a bigger battery in the problem stopped, it only ever does it now on start up if I havn't used the landy for about 10days and goes out with a quick blip of the throttle

Thanks guys, I considered repairing it last night but rang MM4x4 today, they said I could send mine in and they will inspect/exchange it but that would take over 2 weeks and I need the 90 everyday to get to work. He then said I could buy another re-con box, but only pay the exchange price and not the surcharge, swap it with my leaking one then post mine back which means I'm not stuck with no transport. Should hear in the next 2 weeks whats wrong with it then get the purchase price back

Evening all! On the way back from a play day yesterday, I noticed there was a leak coming from the steering box, i drove to work today and it's left a pretty big puddle on the ground The box is a recon box that I bought less than a year ago from a well known supplier. It's a 4 bolt one and appears to be leaking from the big round cap on the front face (sorry i don't know the real name) Is this fixable and am I entitled to send it back and have another one? Before yesterday it has never leaked and it didn't get any major abuse either. Thanks, Harry

Dan I'm really sorry I never posted the pictures up, had a few things that popped up. Option 1 looks correct to me. Harry

I have the TF +5s on mine, very pleased with them

I have a full soft top but the hooks look the same/same location. I will take some pictures once I'm home from work tonight. Harry

Is fitting smaller tyres an option? Then only put the big ones on when you need them i.e. playdays I ran very soft/worn out standard springs with +2 shocks for ages and never had a problem. Now I'm running +2 springs and +5 shocks on lowered mounts and everything is still fine, just need need to make sure that the axles hit your bumpstops before the shock can bottom out. Harry

Thanks everyone , I shall start hunting for a bearmach kit, if not then britpart but with different bearings! Does anyone know where to buy the bearmach kit from? most of my searches come up with britpart... I will have a look for the tech guide by Les also, never had my swivels apart before so not too sure what to do Thankfully I know my little torx screws will come out with too many problems, I had them out at christmas just before I fitted the axles to put new one-shot in...although one of the heads is a tad mangled so will get some new ones also! Thanks, Harry

Morning all! One of my swivels has started to leak very heavily (despite having one shot instead of EP-90), there is a large ammount of pitting in the ball also. After speaking to a friend that works for LR, I decided that if I'm going to the hassle of removing the swivel, I might as well fit new ones instead of changing the seal. I had a look on the paddocks website and although the axles are on my 90, they came off an S-reg 300tdi disco so does that mean I would need the kit that specifies up to JA032850 or from JA032850? Are the paddocks kits any good? There is a thread about them in the defender section that says they could be a lot worse, and they are about £70 +VAT so not as expensive as I thought. Finally, is it a difficult job to do and are they are special tools I would need? I've got a fair ammount of kit, but no specialist tools for setting the bearing preload etc? Thanks in advance, Harry

Thanks for the help guys , I'll get all the stuff and have a go in the next few weeks. Harry

I got a cv joint kit from britpart, fitted it last summer and did 10,000 miles with no problems. The only reason I don't have it in anymore is because I have now fitted later axles. I bought the whole kit that includes all seals, grease etc and found that everything fitted well...although this is one of the very few times i've been pleased with a britpart product!

Thanks mate, is there any type/brand in particular you would recommend? Would it need some kind of etch primer to adhere to the alloy properly? Harry

Hi everyone, I'm planning on fitting a new rear tub to my 90 in the next few weeks, my current one is pretty mangled and I have a good condition one sitting in the shed. I'm going to steam clean it then paint it but wondered what was best to use on the underside? The external sides will just get covered in nato green. Would Hammerite special metals primer then regular hammerite do or is there something better? Thanks in advance, Harry

Somebody told me 2.5l should do a 90 several times. I've had a 10l can of nato green and give the landy at least 3 coats every summer, 3 years later i'm not even halfway through the can but I have a soft top 90 so not as much to cover... It depends how many coats you are planning to put on but a 5l can should easily do it and leave plenty for touching up at a later date.