Boris113

Thanks guys! I'm using a double garage but it's pretty drafty, I'll warm the paint and dig out a couple of those oil filled radiators and see if that helps the drying. I'm doing the whole vehicle so can't use a small heat lamp sadly. I've sprayed a few times before and done an ok job but only agricultural machinery whereby finish isn't that important so i'll probably just stick with the rollers. Anybody know a good place to get some satin nato green? Harry

I used an impact gun to undo the crank, because it gives lots of rapid whallops the crank doesn't slip against the clutch...and i'm rather lazy so didn't fancy wrestling with a breaker bar Harry

I have used the kit several times and can't fault it!

Morning all. I'm in the process of sanding down the 90's panels to repaint ( not done them for a few years and they aren't looking so great anymore! I have always used oil-based matt nato green before and slapped it on with a brush which looks ok but it holds the dirt and marks badly. This time I went for a roller, I gave a couple of coats of the usual paint with a foam roller to see what it was like and sanded between coats. However I seem to be getting a very bad orange peel texture, am I doing something wrong? It's quite cold in the shed so I've thinned the paint by 10% and applied it in thin layers with over a week to dry between each. I also have a few queries: Are the foam rollers i'm using the right ones or should I use those ones that are more like carpet? Would satin paint give a better finish and apply better? If so is there anything I could mix into the current paint to make it slightly more satiny or should I just buy new paint? I have the option to use a £70 lidl compressor and spray gun, is that likely to give a better job than a roller? Photo attached shows what it looks like a year after brush painting. Many thanks, Harry

As VB said, when I lifted mine I fitted castor corrected arms due to not it self centreing. It now handles very well but eats a front prop UJ ever 20,000 (and thats with wide angle props that are greased regularly) ....I'm getting good at UJ changes now though!

Thanks for the quick reply! My only concern was with a full tank, the end will probably be submerged. Maybe I should just go and fork out £2 for a metre! Harry

I was fitting the rear tub onto the new chassis today and managed to sever the fuel return hose that runs from the fuel tank to the filler cap, is it safe to use a bit of normal hosepipe instead? I can't find any fuel pipe in the shed I'm pretty sure a previous owner on my series used hosepipe for some of the fuel lines and that never had any issues with degrading etc but that was a petrol. The 90 in this case is diesel if it makes a difference? Thanks, Harry

http://www.facebook.com/groups/135935819828196/ Have a scroll down the Tixover page and there is a link to a couple of albums. Harry

The 90 is used for everything from commuting to playdays. I wouldn't normally bother but i'm rebuilding it onto a galv chassis at the moment so it's easy to get to everything and i've got time over christmas. Thanks everyone, I think I will give the combi colour another go with a different primer and see how that fares first (got 5 litres of it in the shed), if not then powdercoating or tekaloid will be the order of the day. I did consider electro coating, but it does seem rather expensive. Does anyone know roughly what sort of price powdercoating is? Harry

I'm looking for some very tough paint for items such as A-frame arms, shock mounts and steering arms etc. So far I've tried combi-colour and cheap e-bay calliper paint but both seem to chip/scrape easily, can anyone suggest something that is particularly durable? The only criteria are that it must be brush-able and bright yellow I was thinking of using JCB yellow heavy duty enamel (ebay again) and then baking it in the oven, would this stand up to off road abuse and steam cleaning or is there something better out there? Thanks in advance, Harry

I dont know about the QT versions but Gwyn Lewis weld-on guards should fit without a problem: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Diff-Guards-Weld-Heavy-Duty-gwynlewis4x4-/170708847839?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27bf0a4cdf#ht_764wt_952 There is also this, never seen one like it before but it should do the trick: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-2-3-FRONT-DIFF-PROP-GUARD-/250943906834?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6d6c2412#ht_500wt_1200 Harry

I keep a 4km long reel in the back...still not half way through it a small roll of 14 gauge fencing wire is also very handy!

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have a brand new richards chassis with 2 sets of engine mounts, one for 300tdi/lt 77 and another for factory fit 300tdi/r380 so engine mounts aren't an issue. I was also given a supposed r380 at the weekend but it turned out to be an lt77, the bloke got confused! I dropped the engine in this weekend with the lt77 but the other set of mounts are in the way of the exhaust downpipe, so thought i would try and price up putting an r380 in, also I already have the correct seatbox. After thinking about it, i'm going to stick with my lt77 for now because it's in good condition then consider changing when it eventually dies. We will probably have to fabricate a very complicated downpipe or remove most of the mount, in which case i'll fit the stumpy r380 later on. Am i right in saying that the downpipe should have as long a straight as possible coming from the turbo? Thanks all, Harry

Thanks for the quick reply! I managed to avoid cutting my PAS pipes so they can be re-used, oil cooler pipes will need replacing as they have been extended and i shall probably get some silicone rad/intercooler pipes. Found an airbox/inlet pipe in the shed today also looks like this will be an expensive shopping bill! Harry

I managed to take the lock barrel out of my old fuel cap and fit it into the new one, if you need another barrel to match yours key then you'll have to contact a main dealer...although its still a nightmare trying to get hold of one if you've got an early defender. Harry

I used to have the KL71s, they were great tyres, especially good on rocks and suprisingly good on the road. I'm now using Cooper STTs, very pleased with them so far, they handle well on and off road and balance easily just like the khumos. It's worth bearing in mind that the KL71s only have a 1or2 ply sidewall which could make them susceptible to damage from rocks, the coopers have some amor-tek thingy which apparently makes them very resiliant. Harry

I've currently got a 1989 90 with a 300tdi engine and the original lt77 gearbox, which I'm keen to swap for a defender r380. Could anyone give me a list of parts I may need so that I can start trying to price it up? So far I've come up with: r380 gearbox r380 seatbox, transmission tunnel & floor pans r380 slave cylinder a couple of clutch pipes square-style gearbox xmember I've only recently put a clutch in but that should all swap straight over shouldn't it? My new chassis has 2 sets of engine mounts so that should all be fine. Many thanks, Harry

Disco 300 axles will fit, I have them on mine. You will need to use the discovery radius arms, they are wider at the axle ends than your 200 versions. The other thing you will need to do is convert the rear diff flange from the 3-hole doughnut to your standard 4 bolt so that your current propshaft will fit. Other than that it's just a case of unbolt and rebolt Harry

Thanks all, for now I'm going to leave the loom on top of the chassis leg because it will need some attention soon. Think it's about time to ring autosparks! Once it's all sorted then I will double wrap the loom before running it inside the chassis. Harry

Morning all! So after much waiting my friend is coming over with a tractor/loader to lift my engine and transmission onto the new galv chassis The next job after that will be to thread in the rear wiring loom. I've heard someone say that it's better to wrap the loom in conduit and use p-clips to attach it to the chassis leg instead of running it inside the chassis in case sharp bits of galv abrade the loom, which i suppose would make sense. It would also save me an hour with a length of wire and lots of swearing. Just wondered what you lot thought? Also, on the subject of looms, whilst the loom is in good nick from the engine to the rear x-member, the bits behind the rear light covers are a complete birds nest, is it possible to buy a new rear loom seperatley from the rest? Thanks in advance, Harry

Despite having 285 muds and a 2.5 inch lift (castor corrected), the terrafirma rtc made no difference over a normal damper. It also has a habit of the spring twisting out of it's collar. Several other friends have it on standard 90s and again it's made no great difference, except in the case of my friend running 35 inch tyres and a 4 inch lift. Next time I will just go for an OME damper. Harry

Engine and gearbox should be fine, dad has a discovery 3.9 and auto box in his 90, the levers even fit into a nas console perfectly! Harry

There are a few about, these popped up on google under '8274 discovery bumper' http://www.extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog/DISCOVERY_1___RANGE_ROVER_CLASSIC_8274-50_WINCH_BUMPER.html#aWB19 http://www.mudsport.co.uk/shop/?p=product.php?id_product=248

Thanks for the quick answers guys, I'll leave them off and see how I go

Hello all, I'm in the process of fitting x-springs to the rear of my 90. I've now got everything fitted except the big cone that sits inside the main coil, I'll have to do that next weekend, but just wondered if there is any need to secure the main coil to the chassis? I have some retaining brackets left over from when I had upside down dislocation cones, but wasn't sure whether there is a chance I would still pop a spring out of the seat on full articulation? Thanks in advance, Harry