Boris113

Just a quick one here, does anyone know the weights of either a Warn 8274 or a Goodwinch Goldfish TDS 9.5? Ideally with no rope if possible. Thanks in advance, Harry

Hi Derek, Not a problem mate, I will have a look later to see if the pictures are on my laptop and if so I will put them up. Failing that I will be home over the weekend so can get the pics off my phone and take a few more pictures at the same time. Harry

I'll be watching this one with interest, I'm considering building a disco pick-up myself! http://forum.diffloc...e1f24ebbe0d091b This is quite a good build thread. As above the longranger website is good, but they changed it about 6 months ago and a lot of pictures that showed other disco pick-ups have now gone. Cheviot 4x4 used to have a discovery pick-up, whilst it was an out-and-out challenge truck, it did retain the pick-up back, there are pictures on their website: http://www.cheviot4x4.com/shop/ http://www.devon4x4....20072&Itemid=81 Also this may be of use, whilst it's a rangy, its the same principle for the roof. Harry

I have now sent back 3 of the Clarke CTJ3000QL jacks in the last 4 years, they have a very poor design of attaching the handle to the ram, whereby a small C shaped piece of metal is just pinched over so it catches on the top of the ram. After a couple of months use, it gives up. In the last instance machine mart refused to give me a replacement also. This summer I bought this set http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Tools-3010CX-Trolley-Jack-Pair-3T-Axle-Stands-/200610505901?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item2eb55164ad#ht_1796wt_1187 The jack is much wider than the sealey which is ideal for keeping it stable on more un-even ground. It is also a lot heavier and of better quality. The only downside is that it lacks the unladen-quick lift...but you do get a free pair of axle stands also! Harry

Thanks all, I already have 2-part doors from a very early 110 and the doors cards/handles have been removed for the more simple anti-burst style so I have already gained a fair bit of room. I think I will have a go and move the seats in my an inch, my cubby box is fairly slim anyway. Harry

I managed to fit a k&n cone filter inside my snorkel mushroom-top with a bit of careful cutting. As above, you save a lot of room in the engine bay and it also means fewer joins between pipes where water can enter. The other advantage being that the mushroom protects the filter from rain, mud, snow etc. I had reservations about the airflow being sufficient but didn't notice any issues on a 300tdi. Let me know if you want some pics and I will have a dig around. Harry

I have a pair of Britpart ones on my front seats, they fit well and have held up well to 3 years of hard use. My 90 has no roof all summer and regularly ends up with puddles on the covers but the seats still stay dry...and they are only £30 for a front set! Harry

I heard somewhere that from 1992/3 the front seats in defenders were moved inwards for slighty more room, is this true? If so does anyone have a direct comparison between 2 vehicles and is it worthwhile doing to my 1989 90? I hopped into mine and then into dad's but his seats were moved inwards during a rebuild...and he also has an auto box, bulkhead removal bar, td5 xs type seats and a small boy-racer type steering wheel so it wasn't a totally fair test... Thanks, Harry

Again very little/no tread but these would widen the vehicle a fair bit... You may need to adjust your steering lock-stops though!

I know what you mean, they are not a great example! I can't remember the name of them but they are still produced, they were fitted to agri-buggy crop sprayers which albeit off topic used land rover axles and engines!

This thread may be of some use: http://www.devon4x4....22892&Itemid=81 Have you had a look at Graham Edwards trailers also? I've not used them personally but have heard good things about them. Harry

http://www.ebay.co.u...7#ht_715wt_1187 What about these? 31 inches tall so they will keep the centre of gravity down and 15.5 inches wide... You could also put ratchet straps between the axle and chassis legs to prevent the springs extending...or at least thats how I got the 90 out of the garage after fitting new springs to it...

One other to note is that the door stays are different. You can buy the arms and bulkhead brackets new from LR series or alternativley find someone breaking a series 3. The brackets will line up with the existing holes in your bulkhead door pillars so no drilling required there Harry

If using series doors (instead of early defender doors) with anti-burst locks, you will need to drill holes for the lock barrels, they are in a different place. Harry

Try taking the key out before you re-fit the cap and then turn it until it screws...or at least that is how mine seems to work. Harry

La Salle make very nice head-linings, they aren't cheap though. http://www.lasalle-trim.co.uk/ I've seen people use camping mats, insulation foam and carpet all with varying results but they are certainly cheaper and if you take your time/use the right adhesives they can work very well. Harry

I have a 300tdi in my 1989 90, still on the original LT77 gearbox. If possible I would take the r380 gearbox from the defender also, that way the engine will sit where the factory intended and you can use standard parts throughout the conversion My engine sits a long way back due to the length of the LT77 so all my rad/intercooler pipes have been extended by about 5 or 6 inches. It also makes it difficult to fit the air-filter on it's bracket above drivers footwell because it's so tight. Furthermore it is a struggle to get the air intake pipe from the filter to the turbo round the back of the engine. These would not be an issue with a defender r380 but I like the lt77 and it keeps the weight more centred for off-roading. The lt77 still sits in the same place so that propshaft lengths don't need altering and I previously welded in new mounts. This summer I bought a galv chassis though. I didn't want to do any welding to it so had Richards put the 300 mounts in the right place for me before it went to the galvanisers. They also fitted a 2nd set of 300tdi mounts further forward so that if I convert to R380 at a later date, I don't need to cut and weld the galv. Harry

I'm not sure you can buy a complete rear tub unless a somewhere has some new-old stock. It may be worth trying dunsfold land rovers. Also you could try craddocks or witham specialist vehicles etc...they both carry a lot of military parts. If that isn't successful then you will have to look around breakers yards, eblag etc for secondhand parts. It is also possible to rebuild your current tub using new panels. Have a look here: http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/90/9_body_chassis_p794-923.pdf from page 870 onwards for part numbers. Harry

Thanks guys, the thinnest steel on the thing is 6mm so getting hot shouldn't be a problem. It's only the bracket/drop plate that needs stripping so I will pull any bolts/tow bar off prior to chucking it in the fire. Paul, good suggestion but sadly the 90 is back in Rutland and i'm currently in Cirencester. If the fire doesn't work then I shall give them a buzz and bring it back with me next time. Harry

On my old chassis I put a wire brush on a grinder and took all rust/paint off it then 3 coats of red oxide followed by a couple of coats of hammerite...that held up very well. Halfords sell some stuff which is hammerite mixed with waxoyl, it goes on like hair gel but repels mud very well and doesn't chip.

Cheers all, I've got an old oil drum and about 30l of used engine oil to dispose of.... Harry

I'm having a bit of trouble removing powder-coating from a 2nd hand detachable tow bar I have bought. Some parts that have already chipped/flaked come off with a stanley knife scraper but the bits in good nick won't come off. I've tried nitromoors and a scraper but that had little effect. Next I tried a sandpaper flap wheel on a drill but that only seemed to clog the sandpaper. Lastly I tried a wire-brush cup on a grinder but again, it takes the textured top off but nothing seems to happen after that. Has anyone got any ideas? The only other things I could think of would be a more aggressive wire brush on the grinder whereby the wires are twisted into groups or heat from a blow torch. Thanks in advance, Harry

A disco box in a defender will bring your gearstick up as in the pic below. My mate put one in his 90 (it was cheap) and quite likes the positioning of it but you are unable to fit a middle seat and will probably have to make your own cubby box. You also have to fabricate some kind of cover for the levers. I would stick with a defender box personally. With your axle, stick a picture up, someone will be able to tell you if it looks repairable. Harry

Thanks western! Harry

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-Gearbox-Axle-Breathers-Ultimate-Kit-/180324104992?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item29fc277b20#ht_1910wt_954 I had one of these kits to consolidate all my breather hoses. I got mine from the same bloke but all of the 90 degree bends were stainless steel instead. It's a good kit and there is enough hose provided to do almost 2 90s! It also looks neat with only 1 larger hose going up the snorkel. Have a look at gwyn lewis also, they make a good kit including a timing belt cover plate. Harry