NRS91

Boost pin would still add more fuelling, the standard pin profile doesn't give full fuelling from the AFC mechanism. The boost pin at max travel is basically like running without a boost pin but without the fuel leak you would get from the slide pin going past the O ring seal that keeps the diesel in the casing.

Ahh fair, with the fuelling standard and I assume the turbo turned up that would make sense! Would be interesting to try your method with a boost pin but that may push it into smokey territory.

Typically bypassing the AFC housing like that causes plumes of black smoke until the turbo can catch up, also leads to undesirable effects like bore washing and carbon build up but for limited use off road toys it would take years to see any negative consequences. The yanks would call it an "AFC Delete" 🤣

@Stellaghost I have tried the boost controllers and even made my own to experiment and if Im honest the improvement was negligible when compared to an adjusted wastegate (shorten the arm to increase pre-load on the wastegate). I also sometimes had the ball and spring jam so you would get no boost or too much boost depending on how it jammed (it was rare though). For tuning I would install the boost pin and dynamic timing advance spacer kit and then take it for a run. You will probably notice the off boost fuelling is lower and sluggish until the turbo wakes up then it will go, this is because the boost pin gives you the full range of motion of the boost compensation so your start position has less fuelling and your max boost position has more fuelling. For: More off boost fuelling you wind the "smoke screw" in the cap of the AFC housing down CW. More overall fuelling you wind the "max power screw" in the back of the pump by the injector lines CW in (careful, if you go too far it will cover the spill port fully and the governor won't be able to reduce rpm once you've revved it up). This will affect your idle speed so you will need to adjust your end stops and throttle cable. Slower adding of fuel as boost builds wind the "star wheel" under the boost pin return spring CCW up to add more pre-load on the boost pin spring. Less fuelling as max boost add the white nylon ring bumpstop back around the boost pin to limit its overall travel, thin its thickness down on flat piece of sandpaper until you have the fuelling required. VE pump tweaking is a case of making one small 1/4 or 1/2 turn adjustment at a time and testing it to see how the engine responds as due to manufacturing tolerances and wear they all respond a little differently. Here is a handy short guide from the Cummins community, unfortunately I cant find the old in depth one I used when I first started: https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/1st-generation/engine/49_fuel/tuning-up-a-ve-injection-pump-r299/ Hope this helps!

Personally I'm not a fan of that style boost controller. Reason being it's basically a controlled boost leak when you are up to pressure. I used to just crank the wastegate tighter (to around 20psi) it doesn't eliminate wastegate creep but it's less to go wrong and no possible dirt or water entry points. Just my 2p.

Hi Stephen, Yea I normally put my shim in the cap and then put the original shims on top so they are the ones contacting the spring

looks like theyve done the usual trick of bending the jockeywheel 🤐

I can help you gain an easy 25-30hp with a Boost Pin and my Dynamic Timing Advance Spacer kit 😉 (full details on what they are and how they work on my website). As for VNT control I have tried boost controlled and vacuum controlled using a DigiBooster and they both felt a little clunky. I would like to try a little double acting air cylinder which uses exhaust back pressure to open the vanes and boost pressure on the other side to slow down the rate of opening. This should get you near the optimal 1:1 boost:drive pressure ratio to give you sprightly performance without high EGTs or fuel consumption. A 2256v off an Audi or Iveco would be the one to look at 2052v is a little small. Food for thought.

They look like extended bump stops, would be worth checking the closed length on the dampers to make sure they won't bottom out if you go to standard bumps

Cheers! Interesting to know!

A quick reminder for those too lazy to scroll back through the thread on their phone... What wheelbase you running? And if it's stretched where did you put the extra length? F/R?

The old stuff was called WASP BioKem if people want to search it, ive got a new alternative but not had a need to try it yet.

The one I use isnt allowed to be made anymore unfortunately but they are called Biocide treatments. Between that and injector cleaner you should be able to revive the fuel system with a few filter swaps. When our JCB 3CX it conked out in the field I walked down with a new filter, Biocide and injector cleaner, filled the new filter 50/50 with the treatments and fitted it then did a double dose of both treatments in the tank. I cranked it over for a minute to get the treatments into the pump and injectors then left it overnight and its ran sweet as a nut since!

Ooo Disco2 based 609 axles? that would be interesting!

My mum runs the two sites we have, one is Caravan Club (or whatever they are called now) and the other is Camping and Caravan Club, she would be best to speak to regarding bookings. The Caravan Club site would have the option of a Marquee to hire, on site toilets & showers and 20 electric hook ups. Rules are simple: Dogs must be on leads and waste collected and binned appropriately, BBQ/Fires raised off the floor and contained & don't be a dick 🤣 and always remember THE GRASS IS SACRED! 🤣 You wouldn't like my mother if you churned up her grass!! To save my sanity what sort of dates are you looking for? As others have mentioned we get pre-booked a year in advance for most of the summer. Nope 🤣 Correct as always Ross, only just got back home after leaving 8am on Friday!

Cheers! It may help the economy but the main improvements are that it will run cleaner, cooler and feel more responsive in the mid to high rpm range.

Yes it will help make the engine feel more "eager" at those speeds and help maintain cruise.

Yes the spacer will still work as intended if its a standard spec pump besides the timing being set a little advanced. Only thing to watch is if the the overall timing advance then becomes a little too much for the engine, it will rattle and diesel knock a bit and would just need the static timing retarding a little but its highly unlikely it would go this far as often they a little retarded to start with.

I'm honoured to be so well spoken of, I always try to use the best components possible and back it up with speedy customer service for those that need support, it is nice to see it paying off The shim provides the preload and controls the rate of timing advance, without it the timing would advance quickly and your vehicle would respond like you had moved the static pump timing which negates the benefit of using the timing spacer in the first place. The shim I provide is custom CNC machined to a specific thickness that allows the maximum preload while allowing the full range of timing advance travel. Too thick and it will become coil bound first, too thin and the timing advances quickly. Hope this helps.

Ive sent him a link to this topic so hopefully he can guide you a little.

As yours is a 200TDi it might be ok, 300TDis and later UK Cummins VE cant run the American DTAS kit. Mine will fit them all.

Some vehicles like my 1975 Scammell Crusader even have it as standard tbh! (the radiator swings out on a pivot at the front so its needed)

Thanks for the tag. Yea the OP is talking about the engine speed governor which lives in the top of the bottom half of the pump (just below the AFC housing which contains the boost pin). The VW and Land Rover pumps use a "cage" style governor set up to resist the movement of the governor weights whereas Cummins uses a pull type spring. Joseph Buswell shimmed the governor cage in Drew Wrights challenge truck and it went really well!

Slip joint stops you being impaled on the steering column or having the steering wheel crush your chest... id like to improve my odds where possible

My main concern would be the lack of a slip joint in the event if a crash