Some trucks have belt driven oil pumps now. MAN, I think, are one.
Apparently they are reliable. Not convinced, but I suspect that these new ideas do work well. On version 2.
Just another engineering failure on the puma.
I heard a horror story about a low miles defender, only 20k miles, where the main box spud shaft splines failed completely.
20k miles!
So, this doesn't surprise me at all.
Well, I've one in. Doing a little bit of cleaning as I go, so it's taking time.
One of the issues is that the bush curl on one of the parabolics off true. No surprise that the bush failed, really.
I'm going whole hog on the 109. I'll be rebuilding the chassis at some stage, so changing the bush holder, if it gets worn, is no problem.
So, remove all the old bush, insert the two plastic bits, sandwiching a few shots of grease, inner tube, tighten up shackles, done?
Do they have to be tightened loaded like the genuine?
I'm going to fit some poly bushes to the 109. I've tried the original type and they failed, so I'll try these with the parabolics.
I was watching a YouTube video about fitting a washer/flange to the shackle plate to stop the side of the bush from eating itself on the shackle and it kind of makes sense.
If you fitted poly bushes did you do this? Did it help, or did your shackles live happily with the bushes?
I'm wondering if this is the best route to getting the snorkel fitted.
Can it connect to a defender pipe?
The snorkel will be exiting, defender style, on the drivers side, RHD.
It's a defender turbo, and I'd planned on putting the air filter somewhere on the passenger side wing.
Thanks Mo, I'm good. New is only £50, so went with that.
I do have a spare engine, that, one day, I'll rebuild properly. Nowadays, I don't even have time to strip it down!
One day. I'll do everything!
I suppose it's the fear of difficult disassembly, in a cramped space, that puts people off the idea.
I'll be certainly doing it in future, mild Loctite, not the high strength stuff.
And clean all blind holes with oodles of brake cleaner.
Good point, I need to order a dti and base. I've ordered a new thrust plate, hopefully that will set everything back to true.
And seals and gaskets and all sorts. Not cheap gaskets but also wasn't paying jlr prices for gaskets, my God, they know how to charge!
Thanks Western. I appreciate it.
The keyway looks, not perfect, but okay.
I'l loctite in the key when I do the job, some 660 should do the trick.
Right, a BIG order heading Turners way.
Thanks Western, for the offer.
I'm reluctant to take the head off, to be honest, I fear that I might start rebuilding the engine! You do have to take the head of to do the cam shaft, right?
I'll inspect the keyway in a minute, and if its okay, then I'll leave it be.
Even if I Loctite it into the keyway, I should be all right.
Big turner order coming up.
Thanks Bowie.
It was running really well, when I decided to investigate (excluding the knock) so I hope, very much, that you are wrong on the broken cam front.
It's actually about 1mm out of alignment, I think.
Hopefully it's a loose bolt.
I've just taken the IP off, so will look at that age I've posted the pump off for a performance tune.
You are right - replace all.
I did think of using the heater, but I LIKE my heater - it works.
I think I'll do a tdi cut, and use the tdi inner plumbing parts. That's a fairly well used route and should be easy enough to seal up.