Gazzar

With the engine off, and on a flat surface, chock the front wheels, jack up one rear wheel. Put in gear and see how much play you have in the wheel, by rotating it back and forward.

I think the damper will be the first thing to try. What's involved in changing that? And can it wait until I do the timing belt, this winter?

Cracked injectors, it just ran rougher, but with the knock.Took off fan belt, no difference. A fair degree of play in the water pump, but that's for another day. How would I test the damper? I might the the spare injectors done, and maybe the spare IP pump. Thanks, all. I'm green laning tomorrow, the wise of the club will help, I hope.

Good afternoon, Please tell me this isn't main bearing time? My TDI has developed a very loud knock from the lower end of the engine. The stethoscope suggests that it's nearer the water pump, than the crankshaft. Disco timing chest, defender induction system. This sounds goes away once above tickover, gone under power. Oil change had no effect, but the oil was done August last year, so that shouldn't be an issue. It's a loud knock, mechanical, I've attached a .wav file, audio, but I don't know if it helps. Help? My recording 1.wav

I've never tried it. I'm good at fiddly repairs, but I'd be reluctant to take that on. You'd need very good long needle nose pliers, patience, access, and probably long strong fingers.

If it was on UK plates before, it should be very easy. Get insurance on the UK plate, get an MOT on the UK plate, order the form from the DVLA, and fill it in. Send off, and you should get a V5 quite quickly. I've reimported 2 cars from the EU, back in the day of local DVLA offices, and it was a 20 minute job at the desk, but it should be the same, just in the post.

I totally understood that. And agree. But I reserve the right to ignore the outcome and call for a re-vote, because it's obvious that the people who voted against me didn't understand what they were voting for.

(sorry) Should we have a vote?

New thread in tools and fabrication section? "Ross gets his skates on!"

Whereabouts in Bristol? I work in the centre, but I use public transport.

So, unless I knew enough to get the distance from the injector to the valve right, I'm better off with single point? Sounds good to me. Another dumb question, do/can the ms and speeduino systems take a crank position reading from the ring gear on the flywheel? For some reason I'm not sure about the crank sensor being exposed at the front of the engine. If the ECU has a crank position, does it need a cam position sensor? Sorry, going off topic.

What are the pros and cons with using a single throttle body, versus having 4 injectors in the manifold? Aside from the simplicity? I presume it is placed where the carb currently sits? I'm more familiar with diesel, so think one injector per cylinder, so I'd like to learn if the single throttle body is easier, and the nature of the compromise, if any.

I'm going to convey a 2.5 petrol to injection, but was thinking of just adding injectors to the existing manifolds. Reason being, I think, is that the series motor needs lots of torque, but not massive high revs. So the throttle bodies might not be necessary, as they're designed to increase the high rev flows. Or so I think, based off virtually no knowledge. I'd planned on using ms, as that's not vendor specific, and so probably going to be supported as long as we have IC engines in common usage.

I like to run vehicles for a long time, so I've a fairly short list: No bikes, I have enough self awareness to know I'd be dead in a year if I got a bike. Learned to drive: SWB diesel series three At college: Datsun patrol 3.3 diesel, California style (thirsty but a real road presence) First job (moved to the UK) Mini clubman estate (oil burner) Citroen bx (worn out) Nissan primera (solid, fast, boring) Robin hood kit car - in storage - will convert to EV, someday. Series 3 LWB - still used daily Moved to Ireland Bentley T1(was going to do wedding cars) Series 2 xj6l (lovely cockpit) Peugeot 306 estate (13 years) Lightweight - under restoration Swb 2a - under restoration Lwb 2a SW - under restoration Moved back to UK: Volvo V70 diesel (will keep until the SW is built) I toy with the idea of a 911, but I think I need to focus. If a 101 comes up, at the right money, I'll buy it (pre cleared with my wife), ditto a series 1.

Not a good sign.

Nah, hasn't got proper, tested and reliable suspension system. Probably coil springs, or air bags, or hydraulic pistons or some such untested stuff. Leaf springs, 2,000 years of road testing. Only way to go.

Thick cables are a real fight, well done for taking the hard route.

I admit, I'd probably not use the angle approach, I think I can design something slightly less obvious.

That's a neat way of doing it, I might copy that.

Thank you all for the experiences. I think I'll go Britpart mesh, two stage heaters, switches somewhere on an aux panel. With a long reinforced cable between the seat base and the wiring loom, bearing in mind the underset tanks.

Mine have lasted 10 years, but are fairly rubbish now. Thankfully I've a few pairs of alloy tops, so those will go on mine when I get a chance.

I'd go with fabric, it's got more, I don't know. . . Integrity?

This sounds like an interesting project, please do post pictures, and add to the collective knowledge.

Blue boxes aren't all bad. Which is worse, in a way! Do Britpart do alloy tops now?

This should be in the repair manual. Page 40 of 50 on part 3, if you have the download, page 19-10, if you have the paper version. Edit photo of a monitor screen, sorry.