Gazzar

There's a bit more space in a 110 front panel, I think. When I get to it, I'll post up the repair.

I normally use standard BP, but I'm interested to hear the ultimate is better. But to be honest, I'm only interested in a slight increase. The IC is as big as I can fit in front of a series radiator, it's from a RS Skoda, and, anyway, too much torque would probably kill my series LT76 gearbox! So long as it keeps spinning at 60 up hill with the high ratio transfer box, I'll be happy. That is, of course, if the knock isn't fatal. . . I need a week off.

Thank you all, I've told the insurance company it's 100hp. That should be a reasonable honest declaration. I've also asked for a quote for my 18yo son as a named driver. That's going to be interesting.

For insurance purposes I'd like to have a hp figure to give the insurance company. It's a TDI 200 with a turner performance head and will have a diesel Bob performance tune (once I sort the knock). Defender manifolds. Steve Parker exhaust and a Skoda Fabio rs intercooler. I know it's a stupid question and a rolling road is the best way of getting an answer, but..... Any ideas? It's in a series LWB

Use a steel rule as an edge to cut against. Clamp the rule thoroughly, as the risk is that it moves whilst you are cutting. A tippex pen is a good way of marking out. Use plastic angle-section edging to stick stuff together and to hide minor imperfections. Tiger seal will ensure its a permanent assembly.

Ordinary glass has very low sound absorption properties. Laminated is better, heated likewise, but overall you are better served by stopping the sound getting to the windscreen in the first place. I've found under bonnet sound proofing effective, I used 3 layers of "flash band", a tar based product used to seal gutters and roofs, on the underside of my series bonnet, fitted with a TDI engine. This, coupled with a similar treatment on the engine side of the bulkhead, had made the cab into a loud, but civilised place. Conversations are possible at 60 without shouting. When I get the Wright off road mat fitted, and a higher ratio transfer box, I think it will be quite good. Sound proofing is cumulative, it all adds up.

That's a good question. How about the Slovakian defender and the Solihull defender?

Though is that welding on the dumb iron above? Try on the chassis rail proper, above the bit where you are looking now.

That's where it should be on a series 3, but I think it can be elsewhere on a 2a.

If it's 52 years old, it was made in the late sixties, so chassis number will be on the spring hanger of the front spring, I think.

Paint stripper. Wire brush. Then take a rubbing, cover with thin paper and gently rub with soft pencil until the number appears. Then apply a good zinc based primer, coat with several layers of paint. And finally, a good anti corrosion product, dinitrol/bilt hamber whatever. Assuming it's the original spring hanger? Worth it?

100%

Oh, yes, that's awful. But pressing the new ones in can be just as hard, especially with aftermarket spring hangers.

You mean a series. The only Landrover model ever made.

I've decided to go with superpro bushes. The idea of changing 12 metastatic bushes was too much. Even with a press.

Series?

Thank you, I'll investigate the start cap this weekend.

No cup holders? That's shocking.

Could the front settings be made from plastic, deformable? Or would that go against the whole "embrace corrosion" thing?

Mine has a lever, that operates the drum switch. It could be contributing, so I'll add that to the list......

Heat and hammers. A RSJ to Jack against or to hammer against helps.

It's all right. Two years ago it would have been good.

Bored, don't care anymore.

The lever pivots in its bracket and forces the front pad against the disk. The lever bracket and front pad slide on tubes that are held loosely by the gearbox mounting. So as the front pad goes back to the disk, the tubes slide on the mounting, pulling the rear pad forward. Clever stuff, but the manufacture could be better, I believe.

I got industrial on this. I've ground the back of the pivot lever back a couple of mm. It now fits very nicely. Slight tension, pads clear, no rattle. Much happier. I'm not impressed by this kit, to be honest. It's okay, and the core mechanism is fine, but the disk could have been tighter on the flange, and the connection to the hand brake handle is decidedly unimpressive. An extra £5 of cost and it would have been superb.