Gazzar

I hate carbs. Probably because I've never had a decent new one on a Landrover, and couldn't get the rebuilt ones to work properly. My next series will be injected. And electronically sparked. I know carbs and dizzies can work well, but injection and computer control is more accurate, reliable, efficient and clean.

As above, but take off the air filter, too, and run it without the oil in it. The oil on the gauze will be enough filter unless it is VERY dusty. Refill with oil after test. Run clean new oil, but on the minimum mark. You might need to get the injectors refreshed, find am injection specialist to test the spray pattern and renew the tips if necessary. A tank of the expensive premium diesel, and maybe a splash of kerosene. But the Italian tune up is best. Once the engine is hot then tap the exhaust with a rubber mallet to shake the soot loose, then a long hot burn to really burn the junk off.

Glad it's not just me that has brain farts!

All GL4 or some GL5 oils. More recent GL5 oils can co exist with bronze parts.

It's been done before, recondition plate on the bell housing! Plus the high/low selector connection looks odd. As does the main box stick bridge mount on the bell housing. Isn't that usually held on by set screws?

Or, don't fit one, and change the oil every year, 10,000 miles if driven south of the channel?

What broke that bracket? That took quite a lot of pressure to break. And what is the captive nut holding? But, you are right, I think that's the best approach. Tie a fish wire to the old bracket and fish it out.

I think you are right. Britpart retrim and outlast covers should sort things. Maybe after the engine goes in.

Lucky man!

I'm not totally familiar with that bit of the roof, could you take a photo from further back? So I can see the whole assembly? It looks severe, which is odd, because I can't think what would put such pressure that it would break. Initial thoughts, given the time pressure, is to use a structural adhesive and a backing plate folded to shape. A resin or PU adhesive might be enough to keep it stable until you can get it TIG welded.

This?

Any chance of a few more photos? I'm not sure what I'm looking at, and I'm mostly sober.

I totally understand. I've been trying to find the time to do an oil change on mine for a month. It also needs a lubes change, various seals, a bit of welding, timing belt change, air filter upgrade.

Invest in an angle grinder. 4.5 inch. Get grinding disks and slitting disks, fasteners are cheap, time is precious. Use PPE. Flap disks are good too.

Do you have plans for the chassis? If it were mine I'd wirebrush the top of it, and put a preservation product on it. Bilt hamber dynax S50 is a good option, made in the UK. The aerosols are handy, the wax comes out like a thin soluble mist, that soaks into seams and the dust, then sets to a thin membrane of wax. Other products exist, dinitrol and waxoyl are traditional products.

Yes. It will be. That's normal. Mine leaks at the selector shaft, but I've a cunning plan involving felt, PU adhesive and castor grease. When reassembling, replace the clips where the bolts screw in. And think how you can prevent them seizing in the future. Research copper grease, and denso tape. Remember, you only hold a series Landrover in trust, someday it will move on, be generous to the next holder.

I think you have to take the floor plates out. A crate of brake cleaner or a power washer would make a difference.

If it were mine, I'd clean it, thoroughly, and then take it on a long drive. That will find the leaks. I don't think it's the output seal, I'd expect to see a drip. I presume that the oil level is to the top of the filler plug, and no more?

Looking good! Some day my build will be that close to running! When I did my LWB, the consensus was that standard shocks would bottom out before the parabolic springs, and that the Armstrong's didn't have a stop built in, so that this is a problem, unless you use the check straps. And that the parabolics were "busier" than the multi leave spring packs, so the oil in the shocks would overheat. No idea if this is true, but I bought Monroe gas magnums as a result. Also, where did you get genuine Armstrong shocks? I'd to get Britpart when I was doing mine as Armstrong couldn't be bought, or so I was told!

Find the leaks first. I didn't see any drip at that flange in your photos. The oil can be blown about when driving so find the source. The big metal plate with the bung is a notorious leak point, it's steel, and the casing is Ali, so they expand at different temperatures. I've taken to double gasketing there, and putting a reverse tension on the steel plate, so that the bolt holes tension the plate last. So, if you put the plate down on a flat surface, the part of the mating surface with holes in would be slightly proud (1/2 mm) of the surface, compared to the rest. But the better solution is to fit a Ali sump, which expands at the same rate as the casing.

To be honest I know very little about the prima. Compared to the standard engines and the common upgrades like the TDI 200, knowledge is less available. And parts support may not be great, but the consumables should be fine, fuel system should be fine, as I think it's a Bosch system. It may impact on historic MOT exemption, but you'd be doing an MOT every year anyway, for your own peace of mind, so that doesn't matter.

It's a test vehicle. Perhaps the operational requirements were to recover the vehicle on skates, regardless of fault? I'm giving them the benefit of doubt, I admit, but it could be the driver was following instructions irrespective of the fault.

Yep, slow, the old Perkins from the 70s are slow revving engines. Solid. Reliable. Frugal. Awesome torque. But noisy and slow, compared to the petrols and the the TDI engines ( except the noisy bit).

Yours may be fine, the the photos show the fitting of a stainless steel sleeve over the place where the oil seal fits. It doesn't rust, and wears better than the original. I normally fit them in preference to replacing the whole flange.

Be ready to repair the seal land at the same time.