Gazzar

Thanks. I think so. Yes. I have the bones of a plan. It goes like this (some may not be necessary but the timing of the arrival of bits makes it wise to over order): Measure endfloat on pulley. _ Get DTI - ebay (Friday) Replace timing chest (not mega dear - and I don't trust the old one, plus avoids the issue of fitting the inner seal over the crankshaft) this week -Turners Replace bits of the camshaft pulley - thrust washer etc, maybe even the cam pulley? Get IP checked and tuned up to unleash the extra horses in the head (diesel bob?) Figure out a smarter way of fitting the alternator adjustment bracket. New timing belt etc. Sort out a decent air filter. Fit snorkel (eugh - cutting the wing, I don't like this - but I really dread deep water) Questions - do I need to replace the static idler pulley? What else do I need to do? The Waterpump looks okay, no play, no leaks. Thanks for all your help and feedback, it's really great to have my ideas sense checked.

I think so. I don't think that's my issue, the oil light goes out straight away. I hope it's not my issue!

The knock didn't go away with the pulley, the damper, the water pump or the alternator removed. I think it might be the cam pulley. I'll check the end float in the morning. But I think that's a witness mark in the photo. It might just be a loose pulley. It might. I'll also need a new front cover. That's a crack. I vaguely remember this was already damaged when I did the belt the first time. It looks like someone had a bad time taking the cover off once, as the bolt head surface is at 10degrees away from flat, I suspect an angle grinder was involved.....

Now confused (even more so than normal). I finally managed to clear space and time to get this into the workshop. Knock, knock, knockity knock. Remove water pump. Knock. Mainly from the cam area, possibly the IP, using the stethoscope. Remove timing cover. Smooth ( for a TDI ). I'm going to have another look at the valve timing, maybe there's a valve cap or something stuck somewhere. What fun!

I don't understand? No yellow paint, high profile tyres? Knobbly tyres? Long travel springs? Is that a live axle? Lap times will be dreadful! Seriously though, looks interesting. That track bar, is it a bit low?

Bluetooth is a pain. False promise of technology. When it does work it's good, but usually it's a real pain. I liked my old Nokia, it had a FM transmitter, tune in the car radio and off you go. No longer available.

Steel is, however, simple to repair in the field, adapt and cheap to build, I think it can cope with flexing fairly well. And in fairness, trains usually run on smoother roads than off road utility vehicles used by the target market.

Any insight as to corrosion protection on the chassis? Galvanized? Or true defender, a slight whiff of paint as it went past the paint tin?

That....that sounds like a decent vehicle. I do like a straight six diesel.

Poverty specification.

Take a look at my lightweight restoration thread. That will show you a rotten chassis for comparison. And what can be done to repair a rotten chassis.

Enough chat! Important question: How long before someone puts a Slovak defender body on a Solihull defender chassis?

That's the dilemma: the defender evolved from a basic adaptable farm truck into a urban fashion statement. JLR designed this vehicle for where the profit was, and that's not on the farm. The agri/utility sector isn't where they are going, and they don't pretend otherwise. It's a Chelsea tractor, through and through. Fair enough. Shame, but that's the way it is.

That's the first time I've heard anyone refer to the LT230 as that! It has flaws, but is strong and reliable in most installations, is it not?

Does the Slovak defender have a transfer box?

It's looking like a very nice car, potentially a good substitute for a 3 series BMW or an Audi A4.

I don't know, I quite like it. It's not a Solihull defender, but that's not where JLR are, nor have they been for a very long time. But it's a nice looking SUV, kind of like a Skoda yeti, and if it proves reliable, it should be a success.

I think it's a different part number? So, unlikely, but you could try it, so long as you don't need the Landrover to go to work.

And, of they can achieve all that, surely they can avoid premature spline wear through out the drive train, zero corrosion, zero leaks, and electrical system reliability.

I think not, a lot of people aspire to "outdoors". They talk a good walk and "back to nature", whist on the settee and watching Netflix. They'll buy a Slovak defender, or a Nissan Navara or a VW transporter. And change it every few years, and be happy. And that's good. Isn't it? The market for vehicles that can withstand brutal roads in undeveloped Nations is tiny, why would any mainstream consumer products manufacturing company chase that sort of pain?

In summary. To tow a car behind a camper: 1) less than 3/4 tonne 2) Defective brakes. Right?

Nothing wrong with a formula, that's where the "original" Landrover came from: a copy of the war proven US GP light army truck produced by Ford, Willy's and others. The new thing will sell to those who aspire to outdoors, and have cash/good credit ratings. I've my doubts as to just how much JLR can stuff through that particular sales channel, and the engine choices that they will probably favour, but that's their business, not mine.

There's a new defender?

If it's clean, and you mask the badge, why wouldn't it work? Bed liner is supposed to be flexible, and attach very strongly to the subject matter.

No, that would be bad. You couldn't control anything if they did when driving. Better not fit them in the first place. Stick with good old Lucas switches, with all the current for the main beams going through them.