Gazzar

What would be the best way to store am injection pump? It's just been refurbished. I was thinking of filling with diesel, spraying with wax, packing in silica gel and pallet wrapping it. Would the diesel go gunky? It's probably 5% bio. With the mileage I do, this will probably be the last pump fitted to the Landrover before diesel is named in a couple of decades time, so I'd like it to keep for at least ten years.

I believe that you can get new tubes to weld into the chassis, I dimly recall seeing them when I was looking for bits to repair my chassis. When I did do the repair I was able to keep the old tubes, but I welded gussets from the chassis rail to the tubes and repaired a lot of cracks where the tube was originally welded to the chassis. I did have the "advantage" that the bottom part of the chassis rail had been removed, so I could access the inside of the chassis.

If you could, that might help. I've been meaning to disassemble that drum switch anyway, as part of the plan to get reverse working. No rush, it will be ages before I get back to this. Too many projects!

Why ever not? Can't think of a more pleasant way to tour the world.

Thanks, that's enough of a hint to get me in the right direction.

I'll think I'll have to learn more about motors first! Something to do on the bus to work, I suppose.

New cap is in, and it runs, occasionally. On low rpm it usually starts. Medium or can start, but it can trip the motor trip on the capacitor box. It can run on high, but usually not. It's never tripped the consumer unit. What I've noticed is that it hesitates on startup, I don't know if that's the motor, or the lathe, but the lathe spins freely enough when in top speed. I don't know, I think a good quality motor would solve all these problems. VID_20191020_110332.mp4

That should work, my first workshop was quite exposed and the wind drove the water through the jointing.

One thing caught me out with my first workshop build was building on the slab, the rain runs down the wall to the slab, where it wicks into the building. I set the blocks in from the edge of the slab about 1/2 an inch, to fit in with the steelworks. This ledge allowed the rain to rest. Mistake. I fixed it by grinding off the lip and plastering/rendering the outside.

If it's adrenaline produced, it's usually quite liquid, but remains brown.

Forgot to say, the leveling compounds can be applied without expensive kit, I used a Lidl plaster mixer, two plastic trug buckets and a spiky roller on a long handle to do mine.

Agreed, mesh is cheap and stops all manner of ills. When I did mine the concrete finish ended up very rough, so I topped the slab with the self leveling compounds. The thing to look for is the compressive "strength" of the compound. Avoid the latex stuff, it levels brilliantly but has no strength, I think the number is about 7. You need at least 25, which is what good concrete is. I used sika floor rapid 300, which is stronger than general purpose concrete and it has taken serious abuse. It does chip when big heavy pointy things are dropped on it, but I think that concrete would have been damaged more in the same circumstances. One other thing, are you building your walls on the slab?

I've a new cap, and hope to fit on Sunday. Eldest is studying electrics at uni, so I might "give him a learning opportunity" when he's home this weekend. I might explore the work to reverse the motor on the drum switch, if he's up to it. I've also bought a boring bar. Chinese, but should be good for my needs.

2 X yuasa. Halfords.

I think you'd need to add some strength to the chassis, it is separate, I think, but does share strength with the body. Or am I dreaming of something else. The point I'm making is that the Slovak defender makes me aware of the potential in the disco 3/4 platform as a utility vehicle. And with prices approaching small ish money, known faults and good support networks, maybe it's a good option for a small holding or small business as a utility?

how difficult would it be to tray back a disco 4?

And, if I'm doing that, I'll fit a true trac.

I've read Nick's post on seeing them up, and whilst laborious, it doesn't look impossible. My Salisbury axle casing is quite rotten, and after 20 years fighting the rot, I think it might be time to concede defeat. I've a spare axle, but I'd rather check it over before fitting it.

I've never played with a Salisbury, what's the process for shimming the bearings like? I can read the manual, but that doesn't give you the feel of the job.

If you fit a true trac in a Salisbury, I presume you don't need to peg the diff? Plus it's already 24 spline etc., so fairly tough.

Why don't you ask on the swoosh forum?

Do you have the standard wiring diagram? It's in the manual. Are these aftermarket gauges? Because, I think, the senders and gauges have to be matched in type, otherwise the signal will be meaningless.

If you can turn with a socket on the pulley, but not with the starter. It's the starter system.

Did you disconnect an earth strap? My TDI has a strap from the battery to the timing case.

I've always thought that was a brilliant concept, a builders pickup for sites, a farm pickup with a full pallet width. Competing with the Isuzu truck cabs. I never understood why JLR didn't go for it.