Gazzar

Snap. Make sure the Jack is under the chassis, not the end of the bumper if using the Landrover as the weight.

Oh, and ditch the 1/2 inch on the tank, you want the widest bore everywhere. I've 3/4" on my Clarke, and 1" on the Ingersoll Rand.

I'd plumb everything in permanently. With copper. I did a lot of internet research when plumbing my workshop. I looked at plastic, aluminium and all sorts. In the end copper was the cheapest, and easiest. I think that it's because it's so widely available that the price is almost profit free. I used 28mm, dropping to 15mm at the outlets, mostly from screwfix. With lever valves below the outlets to drain water. All soldered. It was actually easy. If you are anchoring the compressor use something flexible. I'd use builders band around it. Screwed to the battens, top and bottom, with a padding between the band and the compressor for vibration. Flexible hydraulic hose between the compressor and the plumbing. Keep it simple.

I'm going to give them a tart up, and change the gaiters, so I'll look then.

Okay, yes, that makes more sense. Thanks.

So one of these is wrong? The front one?

I've just had a closer look at the propshafts from my 101. They're not right, are they? Or am I going mad again?

That would have been amazing. I got to see a Toyota assembly plant in Japan a few years ago. I saw the assembly line and robot monocoque assembly. Quite cool indeed. Saw land cruiser drive line assembly.

I love proper factories. I had the privilege of a tour of an aluminium foundry once apon a time, rivers of molten aluminium running through a building. Thanks for sharing.

Keep boring, keep boring!

Great news! Hopefully I'll see you wandering about the forest soon.

Really? With wheel arches? I do like a nice ninety. Original engine?

What Landrover do you own?

I'm beginning to smell a rat. Newly joined. Only posting in one topic, using nuances of English not consistent with their profile, expressing views that are at least controversial, and aggressively defending them.

I really don't get what you are getting at. Driving a vehicle that could injure someone because it's not built right is stupid. It's illegal for the obvious reason you aren't insured as it's not worthy to be on the road. Simple.

Both are offences and can result in fines and points on your licence in the UK. It's called driving “without reasonable consideration for other persons.”. And quite right, too.

Dangerous - can throw debris (stones in tyre grooves) at passers by Antisocial - sprays water on pedestrians Looks awful - matter of opinion - true Car gets covered in mud / rubbish - true Not being snarky, hoping to point out things that might have been missed.

That's bad. Hope he recovers fully soon, pass on best wishes from me.

He okay?

And copper grease them. And spray underbody wax on the exterior.

These are axles from an armoured series lightweight Landrover. Most likely from the Northern Ireland conflict. But shows how the addition of channel can greatly strengthen an axle. Just some square channel cut to fit the profile and welded along the existing tube. Front axle, at an angle to the ground: Rear axle, straight to the ground. I'd seam weld the whole thing to prevent dirt getting in there, or leave holes so it could be washed out. And, a tip I was given by a freuhauff trailer engineer, when writing cracks, weld a brace across, not inline, the crack, the stress that caused the fracture is not going to crack the brace.

All variations on the theme "add more steel".

Any joy?

I'll take a photo of the military bracing on a series axle this morning, might give you ideas.

My uninformed opinion? I'd sleeve that axle. For what you are doing it would be sufficiently strong without the hassle of importing. Good bush mechanic with a stick welder would do it in a day or two, if you could obtain a decent piece of thick tube of the right diameter.