Gazzar

Good point, especially in the context of ford engines in JLR products.

Yet Volvo will sell you an upgrade for their five cylinder diesels, boosting hp and torque. And a polestar badge to go with it.

Probably a good idea, though, mine died about 6 years after the conversion. Might just have been its time, though.

I used the light switch on the choke cable to trigger the relay. Also illuminates the choke light at the same time. Power from the permanent live, wire thick enough to take the current. Done.

Go to the glencoyne website. It's very easy.

A topic I'm very interested in. I hate rust. I think a successful rust stopping strategy is multi layered. Treatment/ removal: shot blasting, phosphoric acid, or as close as you can get. Inhibiting: lead/zinc. I'm using epoxy zinc phosphate. It's sticking like glue to the steel. Encapsulation: prevent the steel seeing oxygen and water, and other contaminants. Epoxy, once again, epoxy mastic enriched with aluminium solids, many layers. Decoration: as required and to protect the epoxy, which isn't cosmetically UV stable. Then, if necessary, high abrasion areas, a tintable stone chip, followed by a anti corrosion wax. Interior, box sections etc. High quality anti-corrosion creeping wax. Again, not a Landrover, but my current distraction.

Repeat.

Remove, add caustic. Put in cement mixer with a steel chain inside. Turn on mixer.

It would fit in around here, parked in Tescos.

Who does them? I need a spare.

I rather hope they do. I'm not sure if what I drive has any common aspirations with what they sell.

And who wouldn't prefer to be in 2013?

Which brand clutch?

For my birthday I'm expecting some granola bars and a few coffee pods.

Bloody hell! I'm seriously impressed. Very!

Never done it, but have the task to do on the 101. I think I'll use gold fabsil, after a thorough wash using a wet and dry vacuum.

Good point. Hose could collapse internally under high vacuum.

There might be details around the axle check strap mountings at the back that are different. But if you've modern socks then that would not be an issue.

I see the difference.

This is a photo of the S1V8 half shafts, from their website. They look okay to my uneducated eye.

Leave it alone? Or get an electric vacuum pump? But I'm not sure how the oil viscosity would impact on the pump, I thought it was mechanical, so driven by the crank/chain/cam. Is ita TDI type pump?

A couple of further dimensions and thoughts. For my 101 I'm very keen to fit a LSD/ATB, preferably the Detroit truetrac. There isn't one made for a series Salisbury, the carrier break is in a different place to the defender variant, and the inner half shaft arrangement is unique. Bill Davis of Great Basin Rovers in the USA has previously commissioned batches of Detroit units for the 101 but the minimum order quantity is too high for another run. Which leaves modification to suit the installation of a Dana 60 unit the best viable option. My initial thoughts were to modify a truetrac with the right carrier break, but with a thinner shaft. There's a version that takes a 1.3" (inch) shaft. But, looking at a shaft and a side gear for the thinner shaft, this wasn't a great option, as there were going to be gaps. So, the next option is to fit a standard truetrac, unmodified, and a custom shaft. I've been reluctant to go this route, as I prefer standard parts if possible. But custom shafts are a common option and can be considerably stronger than the already unbreakable standard 101 shafts. And so, the dimensions. The "most?" common size I see on the internet is a 1.5" 31 spline shaft. So my current thinking is to get a pair of custom shafts to match and to fit standard flanges. Bryan Bush at DDE can get these made for me. And thus the question is will they fit the stub axles/spindles? Bear in mind that the outer is going to be standard, only the inner splines are 1.5". And of course, I could fit the shaft before the stub, but it would be nice if it was done properly! The good news is that stub axle is 1.49", so a very light adjustment in the lathe should allow a proper assembly order. It remains to be seen if this will come together but if it does then I'll have what I want. Break points: Not for the Dana 60, but gives the idea. The break point on the 60 is 4.10, so all series, except the Stage 1, are 4.10 and higher.

Recognise the axle stand?

That's useful. Thanks for posting.

I bought one on eBay. Not nearly as much fun. But quick.