BogMonster

Some Discoverys have a brake pressure reducing valve to the rear brakes so this may not be working correctly.

Welcome The "pressed seal" is called a core plug and if you have a leaking one then there is a good chance this is the source of your problem. It is basically a metal plug pressed into the engine block or head and is normally in coolant galleries. I don't know off the top of my head whether there is a core plug at the back of the engine or not but there may well be. If they are rotted through on an engine that age it probably means it has not had the correct antifreeze mix put in it at some point so you may be best to replace all of the core plugs, and refill with the correct antifreeze mix which will provide the right anti corrosion protection. It is possible that if the engine has been overheated due to the other leaking core plug at some point, then it might have damaged the head gasket to produce the leak you can see, or in the worst case warped the head, but I would expect other signs of distress in that case. You might get away with Radweld or something similar but I expect you would only be delaying the inevitable if the core plugs are that bad.

Everything you need is often in the Tech Archive index http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4731 In this case look here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8009

All the accessory fitting instructions are on the RAVE CDs I think - somebody may be able to help or you could download them from one of the various sites. I don't have it installed on this PC unfortunately so I can't check.

Best illustrated by example. Say you have 2 12V batteries in series that are 100% charged and giving 24V If you drain both batteries to 80% charge and then recharge them, they are both at 100% again. No problems there. If you drain one battery to 80% using a 12 volt feed the other one is still at 100%. This means you can either put up with one battery lower than the other, or try and bring it up - but as the same amount of juice is flowing through both, you are trying to make one battery 100% and the other one 120%! This results in much boiling, hydrogen and general distress on the part of the overcharged battery. It would work if you were taking out a small amount and recharging the batteries independently on 12V chargers at regular intervals, and/or only taking a small amount out of one of them but I don't think it would work well in the long term. From what I can gather on here the boys that run 24V challenge winches mostly have 2 batteries for the 24V system and a third one for the 12V system running off two separate alternators, as you described.

The post 2002 engines are different but I am not sure exactly what you have to change to get it to work in an earlier vehicle - I believe injection pressures etc are different and certainly the electronics are different (different engine ECU) but whether you could swap the injectors etc from your engine or not I don't know. However I don't think it would be a plug in and go job - Porny may know more about it though. The price sounds pretty consistent with what Equicar charged us for an engine with similar mileage IIRC.

Dunno about not all of them, not any of them would be closer to the mark from what I have seen over the years

The grey slightly patterned twill vinyl seats are standard in everything from somewhere around early Td5s so the last 10 years or so production, unless the cloth seats were specified e.g. in County vehicles. It is certainly tougher than the old black vinyl though it does go in the same way given time!

It is not a problem that has ever been acknowledged by LR in any technical bulletin AFAIK and it isn't something that can easily be checked, so I don't think any main dealer would check it unless specifically asked to.

Sounds like a bearing breaking up somewhere - I would not drive it until you find out what!

There are potentially 3 switches Reverse light switch on the gearbox Diff lock light switch on the transfer box Hi-low sensing switch on the transfer box - Td5 only The latter is used by Td5s to alter the throttle mapping in low range. Depending on the origin of the t/box there might also be temperature senders on there too.

We had a good low mileage one from Equicar a while back for a 90 on the company fleet, was probably much cheaper than a recon unit. If you go for recon then Turner Engineering are probably the best around, the Td5 is not a particularly straightforward thing to work on so I wouldn't go for a cheapo recon job.

Any that are black and round for starters I am sure they have their place I am just not sure what it is. The price is very good though...

Threads now merged to keep it all together

Except it is a 1.8 petrol But it is also a possibility...

Hey another life sized picture, cool The only problem with a shackle that is a fairly tight fit in the jaw like that one probably will be, is that if you are not pulling straight you risk bending the jaw sideways as there is much more leverage on it than a sideways pull from e.g. a rope in the jaw. They do bend - though mostly only if a trailer ring locks up. If you release the swivelly bit so the jaw can turn it would be OK though, but a master ring is still better IMHO as it can swivel in any direction in the jaw

I wouldn't run them on anything of mine if somebody gave them to me but that's just my 2p!

If it is a Jap auto it might be an EDC engine, not sure if they have a stop solenoid but it makes the possible list of problems much longer...

That's what a poll normally does

1) make one with a bit of 8mm plate angle grinder and a drill! 2) what you want is called a "master ring" not sure on suppliers though - mine came off an old Camel Trophy Discovery 3) whether you do it is less important than whether they are attached properly - use 8.8 hi tensile M12 bolts and not, as somebody here has, M12 stud bar!!!

As you have said it is not a good idea. The Turbo engine is not reknowned for longevity and that had several upgrades from the NA when they made it so I don't think a (by now quite old) NA engine would be a good starting point. Stick a 200 in it.

I would have thought a 1.8 should self bleed as IIRC it has a pump in the tank. Can you hear the pump running when you switch the ignition on? Should probably come on for a few seconds and then shut off so you may need to listen while somebody else switches it on.

How about a scrapyard?

Oh. I thought it was about £15 or so. Guess not Have you tried Bearmach etc for a non gen one?

All the ones I have seen with problems have worked once a new sensor was fitted but I suppose you could try cleaning the connections first. The sensor isn't very expensive IIRC.