BogMonster

seems a bit of an odd way to repair a child's head but I am sure it is effective

The smaller pulley is intended to make the alternator spin faster at idle to improve the charging at idle Jim.

No both the PCD and nuts are different

For once I agree with Sotal It is a D1 and as suggested it needs the alternator with the smaller 49mm pulley.

You can fit the "spider bypass" referred to in my Tech Archive thread which is just a plug with the pins hard-wired across to make a permanent connection, so you can fit that and file the spider in the cylindrical storage facility in the corner. I don't know the specifics of the Toad but as you would effectively have a non-immobiliser vehicle, you could then fit that however it is designed to be fitted. You won't be getting rid of the actual alarm though, as that is a separate unit.

If you get it back take the battery out, run it under some clean cold water and stick it on top of the hot water cylinder in your house for a couple of days, it might wake up ok. I got salt water (much worse) in my mobile phone the other day and did that and it still works fine If you need a replacement then it needs a diagnostic system to program it so the question will probably be who can do this cheapest and the answer is probably an independent outfit

No washer bottle light on mine never mind needing a computer to reset it - I just use a jug of water like anybody else Welcome

Well Land Rover fitted them to my 110 when they built it in 2006 so I guess they are allowed Whether the seats are a good idea for high speed road use is another matter and I believe the EU law has now changed hence the 7 forward facing seats on 2007 onwards 110SW, and the fact you can no longer get rear seats at all in a 110HT. You should not fit a child seat to a sideways facing seat though, there is something in the book about this.

Discovery pumps work in 110s and vice versa but as you suggested the gauge calibration is way out as we have fitted them in emergency (the right part was not available) but it pays to ignore the gauge! The part numbers are very similar too, and it is not at all uncommon for the idiots at Cat to put the wrong bit in the wrong box, we get mixed up bits all the time, usually a left instead of a right but sometimes completely the wrong part because some bozo stuck the wrong label on the wrong item and the computer (and the parts bin pickers) are too dim to tell the difference so you order a viscous unit and end up with an oil seal or an axle or something!

If you bash a side tank you will certainly bash a rear one! Also the plastic tank is not that bash proof unless you armour plate it...

There is a good looking product made by the Waxoyl people called something like "undershield with added waxoyl" in a similar looking 1L tin to Waxoyl for a Schutz gun, we had some at work the other day and the finish was lovely, nice sticky thick black goo like the factory used to put on in the good old days and it went on in a very even layer though the guy doing it is experienced at spraying. I'll be doing mine with that some time (round tuit job!) I wouldn't even bother to paint an old wheelbarrow with Hammerite paint, I have used it in the past on bumpers, roof racks and other things and without exception it fell off everything!

Sounds like an out of date video format to me... Anyway you don't need to change your bolts every time and even the Nyloc nuts can be re-used a few times, though the book always recommends you shouldn't. Do you change your propshafts monthly because of a lack of anything better to do on the weekend, because you like doing it, or for some other reason? I can't recall the last time I had to take one off (but I still have a Difflock prop tool, just in case I do).

I would just get a new one, there are cheap online retailers if you search on Google and you can get a decent single CD receiver for well under £100

Didn't know they had B&Q in Romania... Anyway the question has already been answered I think. Buy the proper ones and don't be a cheapskate or you will find that a propshaft trying to get your legs through the floor is an expensive wake-up call that increases your heart rate quite considerably.

that would be my guess too

I haven't looked for a while to be honest, not interested in Td5s! Perhaps the ROW spec ones do have one though due to fuel quality.

It's aftermarket as Silvio said, the alarm ECU is a Lucas 10AS and is behind the speedo binnacle

Yes you should not put 265s on standard rims but Discovery rims are 7x16 as are most of the alloys and are fine with 265/75R16

It may be different if yours is a funny one like NAS spec but if it is a UK spec or similar with the std 14CUX injection system then you can feed it 12V straight from the battery with no problems as I had a jump lead made up to go to it when I had a problem on mine. It does not go straight from the ignition but through the "spider" unit (immobiliser related - search on here for more info).

Actually my location tells you exactly where I am if you bothered to read it properly!!!

Interesting info - I didn't know that it was a water separating element but it makes sense. It also explains the water sensor on the bottom of the filter (which usually doesn't work - but that is another matter!)

The Genuine Td5 filters are expensive and always have been. I guess they are a higher grade of filter than the Tdi version as it is basically the same unit but the thing is much more expensive - maybe better to filter the fuel better for the electronic injectors. The Tdi filter will fit, but whether it is wise to use it is another matter.

Yep, Altai Silver LRC567 see here http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/metallic.html

Basically: Buy the bits! Take off the new type stake nut and big washer behind it, take out the outer bearing, and remove the spacer behind it, discard or keep for napkin ring etc. Bearing back in, fit lockwashers and double nuts to the old spec, tighten to the correct amount of play in the bearing, tighten the outer locknut and hammer the washer over to lock them. I think there is a post in the Tech Archive covering adjusting the old sort of wheel bearings so look at that if unsure. Don't think I have forgotten anything You will not remove any play in the bearing by "nipping up" the new type stake nuts (or even by giving it a #kin good heave on a 3 foot bar) because all you are doing is tightening the bearing against the solid steel spacer ring between the bearings, which will not make it get any closer to the other bearing unless you collapse the spacer ring which is not likely

That conjures up an unpleasant image of somebody with their hair standing on end doing lots of screaming