BogMonster

Eh?

Possibly because it is F annoying and often triggers on the road with potholes, going over a kerb, loose gravel etc etc when it is not needed. I haven't tried disabling it in my Discovery yet so not sure if the "trick" works or not - too many vehicles means the Disco hasn't been out for a couple of weeks

Why would you be doing cadence braking in a vehicle with ABS?

Mine is a Tdi but being a 2006 model, it has the late Td5 chassis with the captive nuts behind the cross member - I guess it would be fun getting in there otherwise! Tack welding some nuts to a drilled back plate that was a snug fit inside the x-member would be the best solution I would think? Most of the time my 110 has a bare bum (ooer) and I only put the drop plate on when I tow a trailer so a separate Southdown plate would be the best solution for me - its lighter and easier to put on. I also want the NATO one made in a different design, to sit the hitch higher up and give better clearance than I have for the "full plough" version which is needed to have the 50mm ball at the correct height for a twin axle Ifor Williams. This was why I tried to get one from Southdown but apparently my comments about fitting problems on the other thread upset the apple cart a bit, which is a shame as they were intended as a criticism of the vehicle being the wrong shape rather than of the guard, but there you go!

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=13421 is what I did with mine - should give you some ideas. Thread hijack, if anybody has a spare Southdown drop plate for sale please could you PM me

They should be fine on road as said, if a little small for a 90! If you want a decent all rounder then look at the General Grabber AT2. I am not sure if you would get 235/85R16 onto 8" wide rims, you'd need to check this is within the limits, but 265/75R16 would be another option.

The torque converter drive plate is a common-ish failure but you normally get a hell of a banging noise like a little dwarf is trying to get out of the bellhousing with a hammer! The other possibility is the output shaft from the auto box where it engages with the transfer box - the same splines strip as on the manuals, but with an auto you can change it much easier because it is just a stub shaft on the end of the box.

Jim, As in "reliable enough to take you to the..."

Almost certainly correct I would say - 3.00 TDI! I hadn't noticed the little picture of the engine bay the first time I looked, it took a long time to load for some reason - but having seen that it is definitely a 300Tdi, no question. As Ralph said I have one, and for the benefit of those who do not know the 300Tdi was continued in limited production until 2006 model year and was discontinued at the same time as the Td5, before the Puma started production. There are still a few around, any colour as long as it is White and mostly with air con. Rest of World spec covers all the minor markets that do not have a dedicated country spec and are mostly African markets and possibly a few in Latin America. And one British one It is in many ways the perfect Defender to get, as the only electronics in mine (late 2006 model year) are the VHF transceiver and the CD player Basically it is a non-EGR 300Tdi engine with a mechanical injector pump (i.e. no EDC) mated to a late spec R380 gearbox, late spec LT230 transfer box, and the same axles as a late Td5 i.e. the post 2002 Wolf axle on the rear. The chassis is basically Td5 except for the engine mounts, wiring is a hybrid but mostly Td5, and the instruments are the later Td5 type. They are available with whizzy bits like electric windows and central locking but most of the ones here have none of that nor any alarms/immobilisers.

Looks more like a bog standard ROW spec 300Tdi with air conditioning to me - I have 2 sat up in the yard at the moment which look just like those. Probably wrong info on the site. The Puma will not fit without the new bonnet AFAIK and the rest of the vehicle is certainly 2006 model or earlier.

I thought it stood for "Just Accessible Through Earth" which is the position most JATE rings end up in when you get stuck - you have to dig six feet under for the darned things before you can attach anything to them

PMSL

Nonsense - just saves on screen wash

Sounds like the Experience has had some use out of it! Probably best avoided.

Or in the case of Land Rover, they ship them straight out to the dealers to have the 130 back boxes put on straight, daylight around the doors filled in, bolts put in the engine mountings etc etc

choose from yea allot qwikly Capitals and punctuation are good too

Not sure I'd agree with that as a 100% guaranteed principle though I have seen a few 2WD tractors buried nose first especially with a front end loader and skinny front tyres Quite right on chains, they shouldn't have any give, chains and wire hawsers are the classic recipe for increasing the length of a chassis when mixed with a clot who doesn't appreciate the power of deceleration imposed when a solid steel connection suddenly tightens

Can you even insure a decent vehicle as a teenager these days, once you have passed your test? It was expensive enough for me to insure a Metro when I first passed my test and that was decades ago.

Attention Mr Cordell, one for the tech archive! As thorough as ever Les.

If you bolt something into the top of the bumper in the middle it will twist the front bumper with even a small pull and F it up.

Ralph has a bigger anorak - you heard it here first Actually I think the 300 is 195lbft The 2.5 NA didn't even move the needle on the dyno

Speak to Bearmach and get a Wipac OEM unit (STC1209 for a halogen light unit, IIRC) for a fraction of that!

A tip for putting it back on is to put copper grease inside the "nut" part of the new one, and DON'T do it up too tight - it needs to be barely more than would be "finger tight" as the reverse thread means it tends to wind itself on anyway when the engine is running, and it makes it a hell of a lot easier to get off next time!

We grease all wheel bearings on vehicles here on the first service, because they aren't properly lubricated in the factory and never have been for at least 10 years. Since starting that (about 6/7 years ago I think) I can't recall a single failure of a wheel bearing - if it isn't done they often cause trouble as 3/4 years old, like Chris's just has. The stuff put in on assembly is virtually non-existent. Moral of the story is if you have a newish Defender, grease the bearings as early as possible, all you really need to do is take off the drive member and the outer bearing, hose a good quantity of grease into the hub and put the bearing back in and it will distribute around both bearings with time, its quicker than taking the whole lot off and seems to do the job if done at an early stage. It is very common to find red rust inside the drive member from the complete lack of anything vaguely related to grease!

I think the record at work is a bit over 40 tons to pop a bush out, depends on which bush, how long it has been in there, whether it was fitted with a smear of grease when pressed in and consequently how much corrosion is holding it in place! 5-10 tons is pretty normal to move them so a 10 ton press will do "most" jobs - a good set of tools to fit into the bushes properly is more important IMHO