BogMonster

I have recently been looking at Protectakote for the Ranger truck bed, this does not need professional application. Looks good, not made up my mind yet!

Thanks Mo No idea when that will be at this stage tho

As said, I was told they were a copy of the old Firestone SAT directional tread so they are not the same as a SAG which is non directional.

You need to resynchronise the instrument pack with the BCU which means a visit to a dealer/specialist with a Testbookologicacom

Not that non-professional

Wheeeeeeeeeeoink <duck> Low flying pig

The other two are steel but you are right, there are a lot of unobservant people out there

Does anybody know of an aftermarket copy of the 7x16 "Castor" alloys? - they were the standard fit on many 300Tdi Discoverys with 205R16 tyres, if the vehicle didn't have the Freestyle upgrade. There are copies of the Boost, Deep Dish and Freestyle rims readily available but I have never seen a copy of the Castor wheel - possibly because it looks a bit poo compared to the others but we have a vehicle on the company fleet which needs 1 due to an idiot who had a puncture and didn't know how to do up wheel nuts properly don't want to replace all the wheels due to the cost relative to the age of the vehicle, and LR don't make the gen-ewe-whine ones any more... A not very good picture: Ta BM

I suspect /76 is a typo and they are actually the same size, I have never heard of a /76 anything! Also the words "As they are both the same size" sort of gave it away No problem for using as a spare IMHO, just be careful stopping in a hurry in the wet. AFAIK there is no MOT regulation about tyres all having to be the same tread pattern.

You can fit 33x12.50R15 with some interference on the plastic wheelarches on standard suspension - though probably best to avoid if heavily laden unless you lift the suspension. 31x10.50R15 or 31x11.50R15 fit fine, have a better turning circle than standard and don't touch anywhere, it is a popular fitment here. If you want something taller and narrower I think some makes are available as 33x9.50R15. The number of 15" alloys around can be counted on the fingers of one hand, Compomotive VS and Compomotive DWF are the only ones I know of so unless those take your fancy (they didn't take mine) you are stuck with steels.

Hallelujah!

From the description it is probably Willow Green on a vehicle of that age, though there should be a 3 digit paint code on the VIN panel under the bonnet and the LR colour code will be LRCxxx with xxx being those three digits.

Ouch I assume yours is a V8 4.6 as described in the bulletin, and not the Td5 which was what I thought when I first read it (The Td5 is also subjected to oil pump failure apparently, though AFAIK it has never been acknowledged by Land Rover) I doubt you will get much response on here from others with the problem, as the 4.6 V8 was never sold in most markets, only NAS market and possibly the Gulf states. Good luck with your quest, if you have a blown engine in your vehicle and a technical bulletin in your hand I should think you are on pretty solid ground...

I think you will simply find that, as is often the case with Microcrap, the picture is just wrong... I am pretty certain that what is described as a "pump" with the part number, is just a plate with pickup and return pipes running through it, much like on the old ones but with the correct physical fitting to go into the top of the Td5 type plastic tank, and with the sender unit fitted, so it is not actually a "pump". Of course as this never goes wrong, we never take the tanks out of any of the later 300Tdis, unlike the Td5 tanks which have to come out quite often but I think I have seen one taken out of a crashed vehicle once. The VIN number will not help as Microcat is not very selective in its information, but any VIN between XA159807 and 6A something or other "could" be a 300Tdi ROW derivative.

Screwdriver on the heads and tap the end of the screwdriver with a small hammer to shock them. Steel screw in alloy housing = the inevitable corrosion!

I suspect you'll find a big green cheque hidden not far behind it for Special Forces reconnaissance type things as well.... just need to sort out the power source so it is quieter!

Depends what the roads are like in Romania... You certainly need them here. You certainly don't in the UK. Take them off and see how long your brake pads last and decide whether you want them back on again! I did.

Decoding Td5 engine numbers is a bit like decoding Tdi ones, its a bit hit and miss! I think 10P was one of the early types in a Defender but not 100% certain.

Mud shields are a must here or you can halve the life of the rear pads! I took them off my old 90 once, chewed a set of pads in 3000 miles (normally would last about double that for me) and put them back on again quick. They still break and rattle and irritate though!

Would have made more sense if they had done some research into making one key fit all the locks including the fuel filler. Or perhaps I am just a grumpy old git

I did something similar to a customers vehicle once but threaded a piece of 3/16" brake pipe to screw into the exhaust valve, and then slipped a bit of windscreen washer tubing over this and fed it down through the floor. Not as neat as yours but stopped the smelly tide coming in inside the cubby box

My local dealers are really good

Add a bit of water Jim and it's a different story. In the winter here when the roads are wet, 3000 miles is about top whack for rear pads on a vehicle used on the unsurfaced roads all the time if it's a bad winter. I have seen the new - thicker - post 2002 110 rear pads worn down to the metal backing on a 1000 mile service in a couple of extreme cases!

It could be either the wheel bearing, or the king pin(s).

It happens mainly on the back in places like here where there are unsurfaced roads - reason being that the inner pad is more exposed to the muck running down through it, the outer pad is shielded by the wheel rim. Why it would happen in other conditions, no idea...