BogMonster

Basically on the ones where the rubber is bonded to the metal part of the bush i.e. radius arm bushes etc - if the bonding has let go or is obviously well on the way to letting go, it needs changing. On any of the others - rear end of radius arms, shocker bushes etc - if it looks f**ed or has visible play in the joint then it probably is.

BFG's aren't bling they are just quality. If I wanted bling I would have a set of 35" Mickey Thompson tyres on hideous chromed alloys Evidence for the case that letters are best: They really needed a scrub up with a Brillo pad in this picture just so they stand out properly

Exhaust certainly needs to come off on a 200!

Not aware of any known fix and in any case you certainly can't get bits from Land Rover - I would suggest the best thing would be to find a Wabco specialist who might be able to overhaul it. I should think it is a specialist job and as it is for brakes and therefore rather important, I wouldn't be inclined to pull it to bits and mess about with it on the off chance it might fix it... It isn't an uncommon problem as you say - I have seen a handful of them here.

Yep - no: - crime - chavs - speed cameras - anti 4x4 lobbys etc etc What's the point in spending all that money on BFGs and then making them look like one of the many remould copies? Only if you are barking

I can't remember exactly what you need to change (I think there are collapsible spacers etc) but the gears are a matched set IIRC - in other words you need to change them as a set and they are F expensive if you are buying them new. The RAVE LT230 overhaul manual should describe the job. I should think a better bet might be to swap the whole t/box over - they are all basically the same. If the one you have is kaput then get a recon exchange one with the right ratio in?

I don't have the figures to hand but the thicker head gasket might do the trick, however it will also reduce compression ratio a small amount - I don't know if this makes any difference in practice or not. Head gasket selection is to do with piston protrusion IIRC, rather than to avoid the valves I would think cutting the exhaust valve seat back a bit might work but others might know more about it.

Over my dead body on anything I own!

Any mechanic who doesn't grease a prop at every service should be shot IMHO! I usually do mine at least once between services as well.

No, AFAIK the Td5/V8 cast arm and the pressed arm are not interchangeable.

Took me 4.5 hours to change the dash on my old one (1996 model) so it is not a bad job - quite interesting actually! Also gives the opportunity to inspect for poorly routed/protected wiring and rectify it before it causes problems. I found a few places on mine that needed attention.

Whoops - bit too much velocity methinks

Caledonian Blue is an awful colour for matching. I have seen a brand new Defender 130 which had three quite distinctly different shades of the colour on adjacent panels and this was all brand new sprayed in the factory!

Dexron 2 or 3 type ATF then, for a 200Tdi manual box.

I think they are all basically the same around the blunt end but a V8 anorak enthusiast may be able to confirm this As you say the flywheel will need to go and you'll need bits like the drive plate and hub for the torque converter to bolt onto etc

Oh dear - a pigeon suffered greatly in the production of that...

Welcome, please take a moment to read the terms and conditions and the pinned posts at the top of the forum Worth having a search on the forum as the subject has been discussed a few times before. A good Discovery 2 of that age will be a very enjoyable vehicle to own - I have one!

Nothing meaningful. Land Rover paint codes are in the format LRCxxx where xxx is the code - normally if its on the VIN plate you only find the three digits e.g. on an Epsom Green vehicle you would find 961 on the vin plate etc etc

If you can get hold of a copy of the RAVE CDs then the user manuals are on there in PDF format, though most of the copies of RAVE around will be UK or rest of world, I don't know if they did a NAS version and from your location I guess it is a NAS spec Discovery?

OK ... clutch centre is one possibility, not far behind that is the mainshaft splines where the mainshaft from the gearbox goes into the transfer box - there's plenty of info on here on the fault if you have a search, but basically the splines strip and you lose drive - its not hard to check and is a possibility on that age of box, on new R380 boxes the fault has been cured. In fact unless you are 100% sure it is the clutch, its easiest to check that first as you only have to take off the PTO plate on the back of the t/box.

Some vague indication of what vehicle/engine/gearbox we are talking about would be useful as different ones have different weaknesses. From the forum the question is in, I have so far gathered it is one of the boxy ones not one of the curvy ones

Can't get much worse for job security - I know a few people on the inside and some good people have left the company over the years just because of the headless chicken syndrome - they liked their jobs but after directives from Munich and then Detroit they really didn't have a clue what was going to happen next. Hopefully Tata will say ta ta to electric handbrakes

Not covered in school curriculum I guess Mortus, whether petrol damaged it or whether it was coincidence that it went pop, if the pump isn't running and a hum can't be heard, then it's f**ed or there is another related (electrical) problem - either way the pump is not running! In such cases 90%+ of the time the pump will have expired and as I have been working in the LR business since you were 4, I have seen a few expired Td5 pumps. I have not seen any fuel filters in a Td5 engine bay!

If you can't hear the pump at all (even with head underneath fuel tank) then the pump is f**ed - it should come on with the ignition in pos 2, run for about 30 sec and then switch off. Floor up, new pump if so, but its not too bad to do with basic tools. Just don't slop diesel over the carpet in the back!

Never seen any Dave but yes they all go there... pick it up early and treat it with rust killer is what we usually do here and then it usually needs doing every couple of years but I have never seen one replaced - perhaps there is a repair kit available like there is for bulkhead corners.