BogMonster

I generally like Clarkson's style and outlook on things, but I have to admit I PMSL at this http://www.autotrader.co.uk/EDITORIAL/car_...nline+scam.html Last seen hopping around with very sore foot with several bullet holes in

How does that song go? "A step to the left, a step to the right...."

David, I have also read about such things - only on tuned engines though. Could be the problem. No personal experience of the solution.

Check the wastegate actuator arm is OK i.e. it is attached. I recall seeing one a couple of years ago which made a horrible squeal and it was eventually discovered that the wastegate arm had popped off the turbo, it is hard to see due to being in under the heatshield so wasn't noticed at first. I doubt it is this as you say you have changed the turbo, but worth checking anyway. Check also to see if any of the rubber intake hoses have delaminated inside - you will need to take them all off - you are looking to see whether the inner lining has come away and is either blocking or just vibrating in the airflow. Normally means a power loss, but not always. Due to the way it is associated with turbo boost I would say it is in the turbo or the intake system somewhere, not other ancilliaries. Have you checked the air filter to make sure that is fitted properly and not blocked? Is the lid clipped on the air filter box properly? (seen that too)

Manifold gasket is a possibility but I have seen a couple which I think were caused by a loose baffle in one of the silencers, didn't do any harm just annoying! Also check the intercooler itself - may be a hole in the cooler though if it is a new one I guess that is fairly unlikely.

Can't see it that well but looks like transmission oil temp to me?

<Cough> ^%^*% &(^$$(@##!!! £495 for a ground anchor At that price you might as well buy an old Series 3 and bury that if you need something to winch off! Or buy 3 X-Anchors and keep the change

Erm I don't think the VCU is much different to be honest... later ones are slightly different but probably no stronger. Ask Jules on here - he used to race them and broke quite a few

I thought somebody said on here a while ago that they had closed down

check this out - courtesy of www.google.com http://www.troublecodes.net/landrvr/ Oxygen sensor problems by the look of it

1650 first go

I did the same to my spade - bit of angle iron along the spine

My bonnet on the new 110 is like this. The easy solution to a rattly bonnet is to get two of the new-type lower shock absorber bushes (RNF100190L I think) as fitted to the bottom of Td5 age 90/110 rear shockers, and put these between the bonnet and the bulkhead when the bonnet is up. Lower the bonnet and it will close onto the bushes and squish them a bit - voila - tight bonnet You could glue them to the bulkhead if you wanted to make it permanent, but I found they just stay there even when you open the bonnet again.

All Td4 Freelanders have the BMW engine fitted Except for the Td4 Freelander 2 launched a year or so ago - that's a different "Td4" but I guess the marketing people were on strike that week or something

What else does the computer say apart from the codes? I could probably find the codes buried deep in a manual somewhere, but like most other people I have plenty to do in my day

My eTrex doesn't have that setup facility AFAIK. I don't think I could be bothered with recording lots of waypoints, and the track facility "sort of works" as it is - just sometimes it can pay to read it with a pinch of salt handy! I'll look at a more sophisticated GPS at some stage I think.

You are right. Some of the green ones can't travel at all fast without having an accident. One of them got rolled inside the MOD camp a couple of years ago, where the speed limit is 30mph and it was on a completely straight stretch of tarmac

You probably need to plug it into a diagnostic computer but my guess is that some or all of the heated oxygen sensors are playing up, I think that can make them run too rich.

Standard Dexron 2/3 type auto transmission fluid on that age. Check it now as the pumps don't like running dry!

Yes it is the crash sensor - it will also have disabled central locking for a period after it was tripped. Reset is by switching ignition off and on again as you found out. It is supposed to do that

No it actually happened on W Falkland but yes there are statistically rather more green ones upside down than other colours However the MOD have fitted speed limiters to the whole Td5 fleet, they now won't do more than 40mph, and since that the accident rate has dropped by about 90% - proof if any were needed that people driving at unsafe speeds is a major cause of accidents!

Yes, it is not uncommon. I have seen centres that are far more disassembled than that

I have just got to the bottom of a GPS track problem I have been noticing for some time. When I save a track to use at a later date I quite often find the saved track doesn't take me exactly where expected - always within a few hundred metres but often some way off which can be a pain if there is a particular place to get through ditches, stone runs or whatever, which is hard to see. The GPS is a basic yellow eTrex. The reason for this seems to be that the "active track log" (what the eTrex is recording as you drive, and what you get as the active log when you download it to the PC) has many many more waypoints than the saved logs. I just looked at one I recorded the other day and it has over 800 points and is very detailed (even without a basemap I can visualise some of the route just by looking at the log on screen on the PC). However when you save it, it seems to sample the waypoints at a rate of only about 10% and a saved track from a previous visit to the same place only has 90 points and is quite noticeably different - it joins these up with straight lines and quite often misses out a lot of the finer detail on a zig-zag track. Do all GPS's do this or can one get a more sophisticated one for in-vehicle use which actually saves the full detail? It isn't something I remember seeing before - I suppose they do it to save memory in the GPS - but I want one that gives the full detail if possible. I've also found the available space within the eTrex is becoming a limitation so something with removable storage would be good. Don't want to spend mega bucks and most basemaps are a waste of time in this part of the world so a mapping GPS is a bit pointless - just interested to hear what other people's experiences are and/or whether anybody else has noticed this "feature" in their GPS? Maybe it is just because the eTrex is a budget GPS but I'd like to know whether better ones get away from this problem and if so, how much you need to spend to do what I want. Hopefully not too much! Thanks

I suggest you read the recent threads on this and do a seach for "anchor" there is no single answer as to what is best

Here is a reason why you should not park a Defender on its roof: This is a 130 crewcab after a rollover but a 110SW cab is not that much stronger and I have seen a 110SW flat-packed down to the height of the instrument binnacle, I just didn't get a photo of it. The alloy top has no internal roll cage structure at all. Drive like you don't want it upside down, that is the best advice! These are at the extreme end of damage (though the one above was apparently not at very high speed) but generally speaking, relying on Defender upper bodywork for rollover protection is a bit like jumping off the Titanic in your birthday suit with only a set of water-wings and expecting that everything will be ok.