BogMonster

ah ok sorry ... misunderstood you

Shame they didn't come back here to test them, we had a laugh testing the Freelander 2

Change all 5 injector washers (the washers that seal between the fuel rail and the combustion chamber)

Is that a limited edition 60th anniversary 80 inch?

Is it one of those ones you print onto a sheet of paper then fold up to make a boxy looking car Does a vapourware trophy actually exist or is it only imaginary?

Sounds like some users on the forum

Well, just driven a set of Mudzillas on the road, first impressions pretty good. None of the "Avon Ranger" steering feel that you get with many crossplies, and also with the Insa Turbo Special Tracks - the steering feels as good as with a good wide radial MT. Bit of an odd resonant noise at about 20mph but that aside, they are no more noisy than most wide mud-terrains like BFG etc, noisier than my 265 BFGs but not really much different to the 12.50s. They are definitely about an inch undersize in both directions as the "33x13.50-15" size is only the same height as my 265/75R16 BFG's, i.e. about 32 inches, and they are only the same width (tread and section) as 12.50 tyres of other makes. On a set of 10x15 rims they do achieve the "fat boy look" though - mine are going on 8x15s because I don't want to look like an 80's Vitara Need to get mine fitted and then we need some rain

No, its the company that makes those **** plastic trinkets that you get in Christmas crackers

I'd check the lead onto the starter motor first, it is a spade connection and if loose/corroded can cause intermittent starting. Next thing is to do the "spider test" when it won't start i.e. check you have 12V at the above mentioned spade. After that I would think it is the starter motor/solenoid may be worth changing the solenoid but a new complete motor gives more peace of mind Did the lights go dim when you turned the key to crank, or just when you switched it on i.e. the current drain from the heater plugs? The battery voltages sound OK to me.

Les, Can I have it to make a new barbecue out of?

cost saving, or maybe they went home early on a Friday afternoon and started something else on the Monday morning

At least my country isn't half underwater in our "summer" Don't believe the weather forecast - according to the BBC website 5 min ago, it is heavy rain here today, having just got back from a couple of hours out on my boat, the only falling water I have seen this morning was the spray from the dolphins jumping alongside in glorious sunshine

No I don't think it will - not without some modification anyway

Yes I am 95% sure they will

I think it will be the starter solenoid contacts - they are rubbish and just because they have been replaced once don't rule them out! http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12088 for more info

I have a set of 33x13.50-15 Mudzillas in our tyre bay which may well be going on this weekend I doubt I will get to use them much in anger for a while though - its mid summer here and thus a bit dry First impressions are that they are under-sized - the allegedly 33" tyres are smaller in diameter than the 33x12.50R15 General Grabber MT and Hankook RT01's that I stood them next to. I would be surprised if they are much over 32" because I know most allegedly 33" tyres are a bit under sized - about 32.5 to 32.7 inches normally. That doesn't really bother me because I prefer the gearing on smaller tyres, its width and tread pattern that matters more here. Love the tread, again I haven't measured it but while on paper it has less tread depth than BFGs etc, you wouldn't think so just looking at it - nice and chunky and I reckon it will be ideal in the conditions here without digging graves like the Insa Turbos seemed to do. They are also going to be tough - the sidewalls feel really strong compared to the radial MT's though some of that could be due to being crossplies. Will report more when I have them on

Sorry, I regret I am unable to provide this, but I can guarantee it is genuinely a water pump

Kleenoil?

The fix in the meantime is for folks to make sure their bookmark is forums.lr4x4.com not www.lr4x4.com

I had it done to my old 90 when I had problems with 1 bearing and it is as straightforward as it sounds - old ones off, new ones on, tighten, job done

We change the rotor every 6k and full flow every 12k down here as well, but yes I think 12k and 36k are "correct". Oil capacity is about 7.2L IIRC, synthetic 5w30 not your usual 15w40 as used in a Tdi.

Yes that is the best idea, convert to the old system, the threads are the same so all you need is the 2 old type locknuts and the 2 old type washers one with the tit on to go behind the inner nut and one to hammer over the two nuts once tight. The Td5 bearings in factory form have a selectable spacer between the two bearings, you choose the right one to get the bearing play correct, fit it between the bearings and then wind the stake nut on the outside up VVVFT and hammer the stakey bit (tech term) over. Don't - as somebody I know once did - put the bearings on without the spacer, then wind the stake nut up to 210nm because the wheel don't turn too well and the bearings get a bit hot Messing around finding the correct spacer (there are about ten different sizes) is a PITA and the old system is much better anyway and its also quicker to set up the bearings and can be adjusted anywhere unlike the new system.

I suggest checking the connection between the seat and the steering wheel because that has also been known to cause all sorts of problems if it is faulty.

Another picture of a genuine water pump

While you were looking at it why didn't you just buy it? Actually you can have different products; sometimes they do change or improve parts without superceding the part number, if the item is exactly the same fitting. I may be wrong but I think the clutch forks are a case in point: later Genuine ones are stronger but I think they are still the same part number.