BogMonster

A relatively cheap and easy fix then - good to get it sorted BTW the forum is always grateful for donations towards running costs from members who may have saved themselves a wad of cash and hassle

We have a lot of hills too and I find the sport mode on the D2 auto is brilliant for that as it naturally tends to hang on to a lower gear. Try one! You can also lock it in 3rd and 3rd has a torque converter lock like 4th, and in 3rd locked they don't 'alf go and will get to 100mph in that gear if you were in a real hurry

...to remember those who gave their lives in the Falklands in 1982. 14 June is the 25th anniversary of our liberation They shall not grow old, as we that are left grow old: Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning We will remember them. Garden of Remembrance

The axle oil should be fine it is possible that the wheel bearings might have some muck in but TBH I think most of it stays inside the drive member. Have a look when you take the drive member off and make a judgement as to whether you need to clean out and re grease the wheel bearing then, would be my advice.

There certainly were for this market, though there aren't any here. I remember Mark Totty a former member of LRE moaning that it had never been an option on UK models so I am not sure about over there. I hate V8 manuals all snatch and clonk in the drivetrain if you don't give it 100% concentration at all times. Each to their own I guess

Absolutely. Welding with the blunt end of a pigeon is probably against some animal rights convention or other But as HfH is one of the best welders I know, you could do a lot worse than listen to his advice....

Making the engine work SHOULD be fairly straightforwards, a bit of a fiddle rigging up a proper throttle pedal etc but swap the Td5 R380 for a Tdi one and a bit of messing with the engine mounts and I daresay it could be done. The problem you will almost certainly have is that all the systems on a Series 2 Discovery talk to each other on a "controller area network", this means that if the engine suddenly disappears from the conversation, everything else will probably panic (body control ECU, alarm/immobiliser, instrument panel etc etc) and you will get a dash full of warning lights. Just guessing, but I doubt sorting this out would be a straightforward job...

Now going to continue to at least 2010 with the Fraud engine, so I understand. What comes after that is anybody's guess, but since the whole shebang is now up for sale again, making too many lofty predictions at this stage could be risky, it may have a Tingaling badge on it by next year

do that very easy takes 10 sec and the end that is spinning freely is the end that is broken or if neither prop is spinning then it is in the transfer box but that is fairly unlikely if it is the rear it may well be the splines between the halfshaft and drive member on rear axle as spline failure is a common problem on vehicles of that age, not expensive or difficult to fix, and you will notice a lot less backlash in the transmission than before once you have fixed it (if one has lost its splines, change both side as the other one won't be far behind). To confirm, if the rear prop is spinning, pop off the black plastic cap on each side while somebody is driving it, you will see the stripped shaft spinning in the middle of the flange. It could be halfshaft breakage which will require shafts pulled out to confirm but this is much less likely if it went on the road. otherwise, diff centres are known to go in the front, and the next stop is probably the CV

The hose on Discoverys around late 2001 build used to rub through on the engine lifting bracket.

The proper LR kit should have the right plug to go in to the vehicle if it is the same as other LR models. I'd get a proper kit before I'd put anything resembling a Bodgelok connector into my wiring harness - they aren't very reliable at the best of times never mind down the blunt end of a vehicle where there is lots of mud and water!

Water

I have Mr Beast sir The V8 in the series 2 has a completely different top end and injection system to S1 vehicles, the "Thor" V8 with the funny inlet manifold. That said, in my experience the Bosch system is better in almost every respect than the 14CUX injection system and mine has never missed a beat on the engine electronics. It is more complicated (wasted spark ECU controlled ignition, no distributor) and less tweakable (don't think you can get any chips for it as the ECU is apparently very secure and hard to get into) but the thing goes much better in the first place so there isn't a lot of point in fiddling with it anyway. Gone are the distributor woes that seem to plague every V8 sooner or later and the electronic auto box works better than the old one in most respects. Really had very few problems with mine. It needed a new back diff when it was brand new, but that was badly manufactured, just a noisy tooth on the pinion making a tapping noise. The steering box bolts came loose a few times, due to a problem in the way the front end of the chassis was reinforced, there was a fancy way of repairing it but I found that heavy duty Loctite and "adjusting" the torque settings was quite effective More recently there is a slight dribble from the rear crank seal but not enough to justify fixing it, just enough to make a small damp patch under the bellhousing which needs a wipe at each service. There is a light tapping inside the torque converter housing that has been there for the last four years (vehicle is now 5 and a bit, 37k miles) and has never got any worse, so I haven't worried about it. A slight coolant loss has recently been traced to the gasket behind the timing case but that isn't a big job to do, and it has had about 3 viscous fan couplings. A persistent water leak in heavy rain was eventually traced to the bonnet hinge bolts, somebody cross threaded the bolt when the vehicle was built and the water was running through it to the interior. Occasionally the ABS throws up warning lights (about half a dozen times since I have had it) but I have free access to a Testbook so that isn't hard to cure and doesn't cost me anything. Other than that I can't think of anything that is wrong - a bit of corrosion on the chassis which is due for an appointment with some Waxoyl when I get a round tuit, otherwise it has only had service parts in five years. I do wonder when/if the electronics might start giving bother but I see nothing else on the market new or used that I would rather have so I'm keeping it till it gives me any bother - its garaged all the time which certainly helps keep electrics happy in my experience. I loved it when I got it and I still do - no desire to change to a D3 unless somebody else was paying for it when it broke and the £15k+ I would have to find to make that change pays for a hell of a lot of petrol.... The V8 auto makes the D2 a far more competent thing on the road than a Td5 and it just feels "right". Mine has neither ACE nor SLS, didn't want the hassle of something that was bound to go wrong, so you don't need to have air springs if you don't want them and to be honest I have driven cars with both SLS and ACE and I think the ride on mine is better than either, though that could be down to the slightly oversize tyres (255/70R16 BFG AT's) and the fact I run them a bit softer than I should. And it simply has far more "discoveryness" than the new thing which is a very nice vehicle to drive but IMHO has forgotten its roots a bit.

I might have one somewhere - will have a look later. The vehicle that towing hitch was bolted to is no longer mine so I don't have those two

I only ever made the mistake of driving in London once and I shan't be doing it again in anything never mind a LR! There doesn't seem to be any point as you get lost and there is nowhere to park anyway - the congestion is probably mainly caused by lots of people driving round and round in circles looking for somewhere to park so they would be better off knocking a few of the old buildings down that don't do anything useful - like Buckingham Palace - and making some more parking spaces. Alternatively they could fill in the Thames and turn it into a motorway feeding central London with a good whack of parking space down each side, plenty of room then

Mr MOG you have a photo in your mail Sir

Better to measure the eyebrow to the centre of the wheel, this will remove any variations caused by tyre size or tyre wear I don't have this figure as I have a winch on mine, meant to measure it before I put the winch on so I could work out what I needed to do but I forgot The other thing is that the 130 front springs are about the strongest LR springs that will fit anyway - they are the same as 90 HD rears I think - so you will need to go to aftermarket springs to do anything with it.

I doubt the Discovery steels will be a problem, they are massively strong wheels that are quite a bit thicker than most white 8 spokes. Discovery alloys might be a problem on a heavily loaded vehicle, because most Discovery alloys except for Boost and Deep Dish are only rated to the GVW of a Discovery which is about 2700 kg IIRC, whereas a 110 is usually 3050kg or 3500kg depending on suspension spec (most are 3050kg and the self levelling ones are a bit less I think). Unless you plan on running your 110 at 3 tons all the time it probably isn't an issue though check with insurers. I run my vehicle empty most of the time and have a set of Freestyle alloys on it.

The bearing can go separately from the viscous bit, we see quite a few at work that have bearing failures though I have seen some bad ones and have yet to see one come right off - which is the obvious risk, it comes off and starts chewing through the radiator

Rangemasters are a jack of all trade, master of none type of tyre. They aren't particularly good on the road (in fact they are scary in icy conditions) and aren't particularly good off it unless the ground is dry, but better than a "pure road tyre" like a Michelin XPC. They do wear reasonably well and the puncture resistance is quite reasonable too - I have them on most of our Land Rovers on the hire fleet at work because of this, but I wouldn't have them on anything I drove myself on a daily basis, which probably sums up what I think about them quite nicely

we've got a new one at work which is Keswick green so I will take a pic later if I remember.... But it is a really strange colour, it actually looks like some sort of primer, or maybe that somebody has made a cockup in mixing the colour, its sort of grey and sort of green and I really don't like it! Tonga Green is far more acceptable

Should stay on for about 30 sec. The coolers sometimes make the bubbly noise on vehicles that work fine, I don't know what causes it and always worked on the principle that if it wasn't broke I would leave it the hell alone! Try giving the battery a good charge or tow starting it - sometimes if the battery is low (and there can be a defect in the starter motor that causes the same problem) the things will crank but the voltage at the ECU is too low and it will just crank for ever until the battery goes flat and won't fire. A quick tow start usually shows up the problem and it would then start immediately.

Perhaps nobody had an answer to your question. I have a V8, but I have never taken the oil cooler pipes off it, hence I did not know the answer

through one of the existing grommets carrying the wiring harness, there is usually plenty of room, in the outer edges of the engine bay just follow the harness to where it goes through, and you can get at it from in the footwells on the inside

I think in the good old days when Land Rover used to pay for it the warranty repair time was about six hours for the big kit, the little kit is no more than changing the belt really. Probably double it if you've not done one before and are being careful, so a good day's work for most people, certainly not an evening job unless you only need the little kit and don't mind a long evening! You normally get a hell of a lot of spinach out of the hole before it does go ping, the belt will wear down to about 2/3 its normal width before snapping and that produces a lot of fluff.