BogMonster

The other thing that can cause leaks is if the swivel housings are badly pitted and rusty, this will chew up even a brand new seal in a matter of weeks, only cure is to replace the housing (chrome ball). But if you can feel movement you either need to adjust the swivels, or you may even have a broken one it is not uncommon, in which case it needs urgent attention because if the other one goes the wheel will probably fall off! Swivel bearings are adjusted by selectable shims, you take some out of the pins to tighten the swivel, no shims left means time for new bearings.

There's no local TV station but we have one terrestrial channel which is BFBS - forces TV. It's a mixture of what "the powers that be" think that the average squaddie would like to watch, mostly BBC & ITC programmes but some stuff off Sky etc. If you're really bored the schedule is here http://www.ssvc.com/bfbs/tv/bfbs1listing/index.htm There are also locally re-broadcast satellite channels from a private company, this has CNN, BBC World, Discovery, History Channel, film channels that sort of thing, or a more upgraded version with about 80 channels for which you need a satellite dish to receive direct. Many of the channels are in Spanish though as the satellite's target market is South America and I don't bother with those as I had enough jibberjabber in 1982. We can't get most of the UK channels as of course the satellites are pointing the wrong way, but I think some are re-broadcast to S America too. I'm not a great TV watcher so I just have BFBS I saw Hammond on Jonathan Ross the other night, seems back to his old self, look forward to TG being back on in a couple of weeks

Hate to say it but I actually quite like that apart from the sticker on the wing and a couple of the Scrap Iron bits which could be binned I do also like keeping special editions pristine though ... bit of a contradiction I suppose!

Yes it is but such people fail to understand motorsport full stop and therefore they shouldn't be watching Top Gear, they should be watching Countryfile or Songs of Praise or something nice and safe like that

Mmm that's quite close to what my next vehicle is going to look like - nice B)

I expect so. Technically you need a 35x10.50R16TR13 but I doubt such a thing exists! - but most tubes will do a range of different tyre sizes anyway. Some folks here will put 7.50x16 tubes in just about anything

Tony, If you have tubeless rims you need to ask for (or order) 9.00x16TR13 if available. The tube type Land Rover rims (and many truck rims) are TR15 valves i.e. 15mm hole not 13mm.

From your two choices I would take the big one because its CCA and Ah is better than the two little ones put together. You can get high CCA from a smallish battery these days but basically size = capacity. A bluddy great big heavy one is usually a good sign I have a Genuine Parts Td5 Discovery battery in my 90, 800CCA and 110AH which is good for everything and not too expensive.

I have never tried it but you might also be able to test them by getting some thin twine, wrapping it round the pulley and then pulling it off quickly to accelerate the alternator or whatever to somewhere close to operating speed? The other thing that is good for locating noises is a mechanics stethoscope, mine has a metal "prod" you can put against things to detect noises inside them, or you can split it and use the "cup" half roving round the engine bay as a very effective and directional noise-finder. Just don't put it against a cold Tdi engine running

As long as the vehicle can spin its wheels in 1st low on whatever surface it makes no odds whether 100hp or 1000 unless you get into the "equal and opposite reaction" theory in which case the ability to pebble-dash a small village in seconds would be quite useful High powered 2 stroke trail bikes are a good example of when equal and opposite reaction sometimes works in deep mud!

I thought they were less than that - maybe it was just the diff centre - but I see they haven't got any in stock anyway according to the website. I had a figure of £240 in my mind for the diff centre by itself.

I know somebody who uses one and swears by it but personally I use 12 metres of 24mm three strand white nylon because 1) its cheap 2) I can splice it myself and 3) I can therefore make the rope and eyes any size I like. Eyes in the end are sleeved in 2 inch fabric fire hose which is everything proof you can hook it over a front bumper with no risk of cutting the rope. Never likely to use anything else for a recovery rope unless they ban nylon Also have a bunch of 4.75T stamped rated shackles, snatch block (though it isn't really needed with a Milemarker), a master ring in case I need to put the winch onto a NATO hook, adjustable hook chain, 2 ground anchors, Jackall with adaptor, spade, 2 alloy bridge boards, and a T-Max hand winch which I've never had to use. Never owned a tree strop and not likely to around these parts

Ouch - could have been nasty! Never seen any such thing on any oil filter apart from one that had rusted through (been on there a while I think ) - though down here we stick with the old 6000 mile service intervals, change the rotor at 6000 and the full flow filter at 12000. Over-servicing pays off in the long term in any environment

I've got a simpler way of putting it. I think they are all a load of b****cks

If all you want is a 4 pin diff in a std axle why not just get a four pin diff centre for your existing diff? Ashcrofts can supply the diff centres or complete built up diffs I think. Talk to Mr Ashtrans just up there ^^^^

Not surprised Try running a toaster on 415v 3 phase for a demo

I wouldn't mess with anything to do with brakes because if it fails and you end up stuffed up somebody's tailpipe the insurers will (could) crucify you if the manufacturer says it is a non serviceable part... sounds like a bearing noise to me perhaps water pump? alternator bearing is usually a loud whirring/whining noise try taking off the viscous fan unit and see if it is the bearing in that, those bearings fail all the time had about 4 new viccy units on my 2.5 year old 90 all under warranty!!

Actually there are two, post 2002 Def 110s and 130s both have the "P38a" diff in the back

Technically this could be a bit spammified but I think may be of interest to some forum users and apart from buying loads of stuff from them I don't have any connection with the company so... Just got some bumph from Bearmach this morning on new products and included in it is a series of straight through centre pipes (no silencer), no prices on any of them but I bet they are cheaper than the orange ones! Seems to be a full range for 200, 300, Td5 and V8, 90s and 110s. There's also an EGR blanking kit too, for a Td5. May be worth an enquiry if anybody is thinking about a straight pipe, be interesting to know cost too... I was going to put a straight through pipe on my 90 until I looked underneath and discovered there is only one silencer on the latest ones may have been a bit too noisy

Yes only the 4.6 had the 4 pin rear The RD56 locker fits the new sort of 110s with the Rover 4 pin diff, just needs some sort of adaptor ring IIRC. We fitted one for somebody a few months ago, in the back of a newish 110. Not sure about the bolt pattern on the diff housing though? It certainly wouldn't be a straight swap for a 2 pin diff as I'm sure the nose of the diff is shorter so you'd need a different prop.

I use a Draper one for all sorts at work, and an old Cirkit one I bought when I was still at school is used in the garage at home, both work fine. I figure if I buy an expensive one I'll only reverse over it or something so I don't bother. Bit like watches really - keep it under £30 and it'll last for ever, buy one the wrong side of £100 and you'll rip it off on the first sticky out door handle

Well it isn't quite the same but... I pulled a crashed 90 out of a 45 degree ditch and back on to tarmac once with the old Discovery. Only after I finished did I find out that the handbrake was jammed on (the guy in it had said OK to go then realised he couldn't get the handbrake off). No problems no wheelspin and that was up a 30 degree bank and back onto tarmac. One of the early Discovery Series 2 promotional videos showed a D2 towing a Jeep Grand Cherokee backwards across tarmac with smoke pouring off the Jeep's tyres. Quite how that was accomplished with the completely b***cks ETC system on the early Discoverys is beyond me but I guess it proves that weight is king

Its often said to be to do with the 18in alloys but in truth it is more likely to be the 255 section tyres fitted to them rather than the std 235/70x16 - the tyre diameter is the same on 18 as 16 so it has to be the extra width of the tyre that causes the problem - possibly exaggerated by the fact that at least some of the 18s are 8" wide rims not 7". I run 255/70R16 tyres on mine (as wide as and taller than std 18s) with no problems - but I haven't checked the lock stops. Personally I don't mind rubbing a bit because if I need that extra bit of lock on occasions then I can put up with a bit of rubbing - may be an MOT failure though?

Or even in the same measurement "It's just a couple of mill over eight inches"

Putting it on a battery with the range set to 10A usually does the trick (says the voice of experience ) One of mine now has two decimal points on the display after such an incident but still works otherwise