BogMonster

You really are determined to get rid of her aren't you?

Hello Keith, about time somebody else appeared on here I wonder if it could be dodgy heat-treatment in the spring, more on one side than another producing a sort of torsion-bar effect in one part of the spring? It may be as simple as needing a new spring - and one way to find out would be to refit the original rear springs (still with the dislocation cones etc) and try it on some rough ground. When you rotated the spring, did it foul in a different place? I'll pop round some time after work and have a look cheers Stephen

The old RR ABS systems (the carp ones) decided that it was a better idea to have some sort of electric vac pump IIRC, and I guess that is what Jon's has. From the few I have seen they are usually the ones that go wrong and cost lots of money to fix so it may pay to file it carefully under the bench in case you want to fit a non ABS braking system at a later date... Discovery ABS systems are better because it uses conventional engine generated brake vacuum and the ABS pump only kicks in when ABS-ing is needed, I think the RR electric system was a short blind alley in development terms.

Knot a very good idea

just out of interest what peak boost pressure does a turbot get to if you weld the wastegate shut?

Look here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78&st=20 as I found out there are lots of other places that need sealing too but mine is now 100% waterproof

Yep, average speed of the 4 wheel speed sensors IIRC

Welcome Do you mean the dump valve on the air filter can, or the water drain at the lowest point? Both of these should be sealed when fitting a snorkel. I filled the water drain with silicone sealant, and I took the dump valve off and replaced it with a little red cap from a 400ml WD40 can, taped on, which is just the right size There's a thread on here somewhere about it, from when I fitted the Safari snorkel...

That has made me think of something else which could point to an AFM fault.... Sometimes when you restart it during the day and it is "luke warm" (say has not been run for 2 hours or so, gauge shows cold but the engine would still be warm to the touch) if you select Drive immediately and then try and take off, it is almost as if you haven't touched the throttle, the revs barely increase at all, then after two or three seconds it "clears" and off you go, problem doesn't happen again. I suppose it probably does it a couple of times a month and apart from "wondering" I have never worried about it. I suppose it could be an AFM fault because if the engine doesn't sense any more air going in, then it aint going to inject any more fuel. On top of that it definitely doesn't idle as well as it used to, the idle is "slightly fluffy" a bit like a 14CUX V8, not quite smooth, whereas when I got it the idle was perfect, there was not a hint of vibration. Again it isn't a problem but I like engines to run "just right"... Will have to investigate further, and I hate to think how much a new AFM costs, I may just put up with it I am perched on the Third Rock from the Antarctic

Better than that, I have a spanking new IDS in the garage at work Interesting idea, but it only happens first thing in the morning - leave it for 3-4 hours during the day, and its fine, even with the engine/gbox stone cold. No shortage of "go" when you put your foot down (even though I don't with a cold engine, for obvious reasons) and fuel consumption is normal, I would have thought that might suffer with a dodgy AFM. I'll see if I can get some AFM readings from somewhere and compare them to mine. Thanks

The early boxes I think you can sort of expect it though, because the control unit is purely hydraulic and therefore "the brains a bit slow when cold" but I don't think the electronic box should suffer the same thing. Guess there aren't many D2 V8 owners on here The box has only got 35000 miles on it and has had 2 oil changes in its life which is more than needed so I would hope there are not falling-to-bits type problems inside

Post a photo up so we can have a look, but my guess is your alloys are quite a wide offset...

Driver demand = throttle potentiometer fault Have seen a couple of dud ones so try and borrow a good one and try it. There are two different types, 2 track and 3 track, your vehicle will need a 2 track one I expect From what you just posted about the lack of power/misfire at high load it sounds like a fuel pump fault to me, the pump is struggling to keep the fuel rail pressure up. Usually when this happens they top out at about 3500rpm no-load and struggle to get up hills and yes it makes them misfire. Fuel pumps on a Td5 are "consumables" some last as little as 2 yrs! depends on how clean the fuel is

Que? . . . Sorry couldn't resist that coat and hat engaged and moving.... I don't speak Catamaran either, though I thought it was some sort of boat Bog"Doingwondersforglobalintegration"Monster

Quite breezy But Sunday looks like being time to break out the boat

Bah still the same thing when searching and click on a message in the search results you get: "Message could not be displayed Outlook Express encountered an unexpected problem while displaying this message. Check your computer for low memory or low disk space and try again" Does seem to be quicker searching and opening very large folders though...

Thanks for the above. Tried Thunderpants, don't really like it, and I don't like the full Outlook. Found something interesting on the subject here http://www.microsoft.com/windows/ie/commun...s/oerepair.mspx ran the "folder compact" thing exactly as instructed on the old PC and it chuntered away for about 3/4 of an hour doing "something" will see what happens when it has finished (nearly done now) will try exporting and re importing messages later if that doesn't work (and once I have done a backup!)

Just got a shiny new Dell for the office at work... My old Dell has got tonnes of email from about the last seven years on it, and is having problems, I think the Outlook Express index is somehow corrupted. I've tried the "compact and repair" function before and it doesn't help. The problem is that the folders can be a bit slow loading, and the search function doesn't work properly, which is a pain. However I also have tonnes of email on my computer at home and this one has no problems, folders load almost instantly and I can search all mail. (On the work one, I can search and find the messages but then get an error when I try to open them, so I need to write down the date of the message and navigate manually to the folder where it is stored, which is a pain in the butt) In the past when upgrading I have simply copied the whole "store folder" across from one computer to the next on a hard drive and this works, but takes all the problems with it. Is there a way to transfer messages to the new computer and force the computer to re-build the index from scratch or something, so that it all works properly again? Any ideas from learned IT types would be gratefully accepted Ta

So is 4Site, as 4Site/Southam/Micheldever are all something to do with each other, so I don't know what is going on there but the best deal is the best deal

Lots of people here used to use the Coopers, not many do now. I don't know a lot about them but some reckoned they got lots of punctures and yes I think they do wear faster. I think in performance terms they were broadly the same as the BFGs but I'd buy BFGs over those every time. There is nothing wrong with them except for them being a Kumho standard of tyre (good but not as good as the top ones) at a BFG standard of price - so you'd naturally either buy Kumhos and save a bit of money or go for the genuine article. I have moved away from BFGs to the Insa Turbos on the 90 and I'll be moving back before long as the bl&*dy noise is driving me up the wall!!!

Recently it has been 'kin cold here (supposed to be summer, bah! so much for global warming, anybody got an old fridge I can smash) and I have noticed that the Discovery's auto box hangs in first gear a bit when cold first thing in the morning. I never used to notice because it normally lives in the garage and because it is left running while I close the garage door etc, by the time I set off it is fine, but as it has been living outside recently I have noticed that reversing out of the drive and then putting it into drive, it does hang in 1st for a while before it goes up to 2nd. Probably only goes to about 2500rpm but normally if you accelerate on a light throttle it will change up through the gears at very low revs. Anybody else with a V8 auto notice this at all? I'm trying to decide if it is "fairly normal" or a sign of some impending problem - on the old hydraulically operated gearboxes I think it suggested low oil pressure due to a blocked filter but presumably the electronic box should still change when told to by the brain, and the gearbox filter has been changed recently anyway though I am going to do it again at the next service. No other V8 D2's in this part of the world so I have nothing to compare it with, just a niggling feeling that it isn't right

Yup, early ones were the worst but all can suffer the misfire problem even if there is no apparent sign of oil in the harness. I think the insulation breaks down over time, one of the great benefits of putting a little ickle fragile wiring harness inside something that is really hot and oily and vibrates a lot...

Change the wiring harness to the injectors. It's an easy DIY job, just pop the rocker cover off (about 84 bolts) unplug the harness where it goes in to the head, unplug all 5 injectors, remove, dump, refit is the reverse of removal also worth hosing out the inside of the plug on the wiring loom with electrical contact cleaner spray, and do the same to the 2 plugs that go into the ECU, you may find oil in one of those so clean it out and if possible blow with an airline. Usual symptoms of this problem which affects all Td5s sooner or later is that it will be OK when cold but will gradually start to misfire as it warms up then after about 10 miles will be running like a bag of bolts, switch off and leave to cool and it will be OK. Harness is about £40 and definitely not worth paying somebody to change it. If that doesn't cure it, an injector is a possibility (electrical failure and I have seen a broken spring) but you want to plug it in to a diagnostic computer before you spend any more, and see what cylinder is misfiring. Could also be head gasket etc I suppose but I'd start with the injector harness.

It has been known