BogMonster

Just want the shock absorbers not springs, I know somebody here with OME springs on the vehicle and everybody who has ever been in it reckons it shakes all their teeth out! My other option is a set of Genuine 110 rears on the back and leave the Monroes on the front, I think it is mostly the rear that is a bit wobbly by the feel of it. Main problem that occurred to me today is that I need it sorted by Christmas and I don't think they would be here by christmas if I ordered them now...

Who currently offers the best price on OME shock absorbers in the UK? Several people here have tried them and reckon they make an awesome difference on our roads compared to standard dampers, so I'm thinking about some as the Monroe's I have got seemed good at first but things seem to be getting a bit wallowy lately. So who is cheapest and what should I be asking for, for a 90 with a fair bit of kit in it, about 1.5" lift at the back and about 1" at the front? Ta S

There is also a little signal amplifier thing which you need if you have the window aerial on later Discoverys

plus heater fan, radio, lights, wipers.... They do usually last a few days though, if you have a decent battery and its summertime then anything up to a week is possible!

From what I have seen of the terrain in the photos, it's difficult to build a bridge when there is nothing hard to build it on and I guess you can't really run in eight feet of slop either?

I'm already here If I was in charge I would just shoot all the people that waste time and natural resources thinking up lots of stupid f****g ideas about saving the planet none of which will ever make it in to production because they are all so cr&p that nobody will use them. That in itself must be a huge waste of resources! And then shoot all the people that make normal people try to use those ideas by taxing anything that people already use out of existence. Bah humbug

At least the mount isn't made out of an old filing cabinet like the one linked to a couple of days ago

That would be the way I would do it then, transfer all the ancilliaries and wiring harnesses over. I am 99.9% sure the basic block and stuff is the same, starter, turbo etc almost certainly will be as well. Your other option would be to fit the Defender engine with the mechanical pump and do away with the EDC. This would probably be a more robust solution in terms of not going wrong in years to come, but the EDC engines have a useful bit of extra power which you would probably miss. Try it the first way to start with, and if they can't get it running with the EDC pump, then fit the mechanical pump and make it into a "proper" Tdi

I think the mountings are different but the alternative mountings just bolt on to the block, somebody else may be able to confirm this, but I'm pretty sure the basic engine block is the same so should be straightforward enough. 100A alternator on the Discovery vs 65A on the Defender, and sometimes an a/c compressor on the Discovery, but not aware of any other differences unless it is an EDC engine in the Discovery, in which case you'd need to bodge it a bit to fit the non EDC engine from the Defender.

Pulley size will almost certainly be the problem, they changed around this time so you probably have one of each. There are two types, later vehicles have a smaller pulley (49mm instead of 61mm IIRC) and a different belt (ERR5911 or PQS000040 on later vehicles, ERR3287 or PQS000030 on early vehicles) the idea being for the alternator on later vehicles to spin faster at a given engine speed and therefore charge better when the engine is idling. So when you put an early alternator on a late vehicle, it spins slower (because of the bigger pulley) and the rev counter will be wrong. I'd try fitting the pulley off your old alt, that should cure it and is free Also it is important to note that the belts are different lengths, you can get away with using the longer (early) belt on a later vehicle but if you do it the other way round it is probably a bit too tight hence more strain on all the bearings, and the tensioner. Better to have the right belt fitted for the alternator. If this isn't in the Tech Archive already Tony, might be worth putting it in there as I have provided the above info a few times in the past.

My heated screen that I fitted to my old 90 pulled in about 30 amps so I put a feed direct to the battery

Perhaps the UJ's on the shaft between the column & box are seized? Or the steering joints on the track rod/drag link? Worth a look anyway....

FFS What an amateur. I mean he hasn't even wound the cable on neatly. Whatever next <tut>

Many of the accidents here are caused by people swerving to avoid sheep on the road, losing control on the gravel roads and kablooey.... If something comes out in front of me I will try and stop in a straight line but will NOT swerve as it is a recipe for disaster most of the time. A fully grown Upland Goose will come right through a windscreen at 50mph though and Dad did hundreds of pounds worth of damage to the front of his L200 when he hit one once. Being a farmer when he heard the cost of the new grille etc he told them to shove it and it still has a hole in the front

:hysterical: :hysterical:

Did somebody say "approach angle"?? Is 0 degrees an angle or not? Not sure a box pop riveted onto the standard bumper is gonna stand 4 tons either, just a wild guess.... As for... Dare somebody to add a question saying "Was the reason you got your rover stuck in the mud in the first place, something to do with the butt ugly tin box sticking about 8 feet out past the bumper"

I had some bumph on them once which said the gear ratios were different (10 had a lower ratio) but how you tell them apart from the outside, I have no idea...

Hmm I found http://www.etc.co.uk/ to have nothing to do with propshafts

Surely it would have been easier to run a grinder round the inside of the door aperture than than do the crossmember again?

That would be the reason, since the accounts registered by pure spammers are immediately terminated with extreme prejudice!

Dunno but Tim is right, that is what they are always called on outboards even if it is technically wrong, but it isn't wrong as it stops cavitation when cornering

There are only 3 different types of UJ, the RTC3346 used on older vehicles, RTC3458 on newer ones (all 300Tdi age for example, though I am not sure if they came in with the 300Tdi, or earlier) which is a bit smaller. Then there is a much bigger type used only on the front propshaft of new vehicles (post 2002 I think, and any new front prop you buy from Land Rover now). I can't remember the part no of the latest type offhand. If it isn't one of those three then it's an odd one - good luck!

Lots of WD40 and shock the head of the bolt with a small hammer, worked on mine. And then lots of copper grease on the new ones!

Most Td5s (all except the very early ones) have an auto bleeding function, put the ignition on and pump the pedal to the floor and back 5 times the engine warning light will start flashing, it will run the purge cycle of 30 seconds on 5 seconds off 30 seconds on 5 seconds off, I think it does this 6 times then as soon as the light stops flashing, put the pedal to the floor and crank it till it starts. I think only the early 99MY vehicles don't have this function built in. If there is fuel in the tank it will not affect the fuel pump, but if it is running dry then it will die fairly quickly! But only if the tank is completely empty, I'm assuming if it won't start they will have checked to see if there is any fuel in it.......

Would serve LRE right and I would probably go to the LRM one on principle. But it is still a bluddy stupid idea having two shows on the same weekend. FFS you would think anybody could work that out.... never mind show "organisers". Who announced the date first and who is the pillock?