BogMonster

You wait till I come along with my moderating bazooka and say "Hasta la vista baby" now they are in the bin

Alternator bearings also make a noise like this when they are on the way out

Yeah, what do you know anyway ;)

Good point. I assumed the latter! Not sure ones choice of outer leisurewear would be significant in replacing suspension components

And don't wear a crackly synthetic fleece when you are doing it

Yep - mine is 10mm

Maybe they are - I've just googled and most industrial motors seem to be up around 90% efficiency which surprises me. No idea about winch motors though.... anybody know? if about 90% also, then 6hp would need a bit over 400 amps at 12V

Trust me, you do NOT want to roll a Defender at speed, especially a 130 with a canvas back. Here are a couple of examples of why: Amazingly nobody was hurt in either! The top half of a Defender has all the strength of an oversized Coke can and crumples remarkably like one when you sit 2 tons on it.

No comment being made The story did make me PMSL though

If you do the sums you'd almost certainly find they mean it consumes about 6hp in terms of volts x amps disappearing in to the motor at maximum load, but I bet several of the horses stray before they come out the other end Is 50% efficiency about right for a leccy motor? Edited to say yep 6hp is about 370 amps at 12 volts, if me maths are correct.

do you get a motor/grinding noise? if so then the winder mechanism has broken, it is an endless wire thing which is rubbish and they break all the time

Motor torque has to be what defines the maximum pull. A 6HP XP motor COULD well just provide a similar torque level to a standard motor at twice or three times the shaft speed to an old 2.1HP, on the other hand it may provide a lot more torque (I have no idea). So as Moglite says if you stick 4000lb on the hook it might travel at 2x the speed under that load but the stall could be similar. It's a shame the motor manufacturers don't provide power/torque curves so you could compare, say, a Bowmotor with an XP one, which would let users decide what they want i.e. speed or oooooomph. And decide which one might tie their winch gearbox in a knot

Dyneema for me, no problems with snapping and I have had the BACK wheels of the 90 off the ground pulling down on the front with a single line pull... and bent the rear crossmember trying to winch something (brakes hard on) while chained to a 20ft ISO container. I would probably buy it again rather than try any of the others as 100% pleased so far. Just a shame the only colour is Argie Blue....

Surely if you put mesh in the sides all the gas will leak out?

I have one of these Draper 35574 similar to the PR4 shown on the VWP page and it is bluddy brilliant for insulated terminals, the only one I have had (currently got 4 I think, the others are all B5T versions) which does the insulated terminals properly. Haven't actually tried it yet on uninsulated terminals as I rarely use them and I've not had it very long. Does a perfect crimp, and holds the terminal securely in the crimper while you pop the wire in the end, so if you are doing one in an awkward place there is none of the swearing associated with B5T versions where you are trying to hold the wire with one hand, the crimper with the other and the terminal with the hand you haven't got... Edited to say it doesn't appear to be suitable for uninsulated terminals though...

Why would anybody want a wheel that has only 3/4 the rating of a cr&ppy old white 8 spoke? May explain why they break though... Think I would rather find an air leak than find I was suddenly running on spokes at 70mph, the handling may leave a bit to be desired and the noise levels might be a bit high

Fink wot e means is that you needn't wait for the water to be cold before it falls out the bottom of the radiator... cos very hot water loses heat quicker 'n hot water

Yeah - don't look underneath again for no particular reason

Caption competition time! "Toyota engines are beefy enough to haul you through any situation"

Yeah but you wish it would break down so you could get out and rest your spine

Have sold a couple in the past and that is how they were - 2H, 4H and 4L And bl*^dy uncomfortable at all speeds

I have yet to "Test" my rear one so it is still fine, but the moment I got it I thought it was a bit of a rubbish idea - the QT lettering cut in to the guard looks very bling, but removes a lot of the strength from precisely where it is needed! I did think about cutting a plate to weld over the QT letters but inertia got in the way and I decided it could wait till I bent it. The wraparound design is good in some ways but poor in others because if you look at the design its a few long narrow bits of metal going right around the outside with basically no support so it is obvious that if you whack it on something in the middle of one of the long thin strips it is gonna bend pretty easily. I have a dome clamp-on guard on my front diff that I think came from W&H Wheelcarriers years ago, have had the same one on all 3 of my 90s I think and "christened" it repeatedly and it is still absolutely fine and has done its job, I'm quite sure the QT wouldn't have survived what this one has. The only drawback is that it isn't a rockslider but my diff guard use tends to involve driving into a rock head on with a big clang and some swearing, rather than sliding over them

Amateur I got 2 words past that I think he means its made of plastic so it will probably still leak even though the book says it won't

So would I. In fact I might write to Greenpeace and ask if I can have 2, one for each of my Land Rovers

RPR, sad but very true.... I wonder how many of Greenpeace's white collar workers drive 4x4's, bet they won't publish THAT statistic