BogMonster

everybodysnickedallthefrickengoodnames.com?

Sounds more like "Warn don't happen to make any radio remotes and so we are just covering our butts" to me

I've just ordered some of the new Insa Turbo Special Track which I rather like the look of, as usual it will be a while before I get them though Mine are coming from Southam Tyres aka 4site .... I guess they will do the others as well, the Special Track isn't actually shown on the website. Might be worth a call to check out prices

I used a small flatblade screwdriver under each side and just wiggled it out. The one in my 90 was quite a tight fit, I don't think you'd have shifted it with a pair of pliers.

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Doesn't seem to work very well. I typed in the numbers of a couple of vehicles I know offhand (private plates) belonging to somebody I know in UK and it says they don't exist, which I know they do. Maybe it doesn't work on private plates? White90 is powered by "heavy oil"

That's an easy way to remember it, but I guess the "Rule of 9" also only works if the firing order is the same? - I suppose (though I am not sure) that it probably is in all LR engines but I don't know about other 4cyl, do any others have a different firing order?

Relatively insignificant as a % gain

Very bling grease Les, does it glow in the dark? Colour coded to match the neons underneath I reckon

Forgot to mention that I haven't ever changed spark plug leads on the 4.0 because to change these on the Thor engines you have to take the whole F&%*^( inlet manifold off to get at the coils (according to the WSM anyway) Marvellous I agree on cheap dizzy caps/rotor arms, been there done that filed it in the bin!

I don't have those on mine When I had a 3.9 I was surprised to find you can't (or couldn't) actually buy genuine lead sets for these (the dizzy is in a slightly different location on the serpentine engines IIRC). If you ordered the p/no from the book for a genuine 3.9 lead set (which should be all the right length) you got a mishmash of individual part numbered leads (the original part no was superceded) but there were only about 3 different length of lead (there were 2 or 3 of some part numbers), and it looked like a right dogs breakfast with them on there. It turned out that the cause of the misfire was that somebody who had been fiddling (not me I hasten to add) had set the timing to however many degrees AFTER tdc instead of BEFORE... once I found that it ran a whole lot better.......

Normal on road towing is OK as long as the eye doesn't jam up (which is what happened to mine in the thread linked to - though if it had jammed in my old 90 it wouldn't have done that). Now I grease the NATO ring before each time I tow the boat, though you shouldn't have to. I straightened the chassis with a sledgehammer and touch wood it hasn't happened again. The thing that a Td5 chassis will not stand in any shape or form is a snatch recovery. Quite often with the conditions here a snatch of some sort is inevitable as the towing vehicle just doesn't have enough grip to recover somebody buried in soft peat, and there are sooo many bent rear crossmembers on Td5 age vehicles. This is what happens when one lets go big time Not sure what happened exactly but I wouldn't wish to have been too close when it did I think on that one it was probably a drop plate that broke, not sure, by the pattern of the damage.

I haven't done it but I wouldn't fit a Td5 chassis to anything if you plan on towing or off road recovery on a regular basis. The reason why can be seen here - the back end is made of tinfoil.... If I was going to go to the trouble of a chassis swap I'd want to start with a chassis worth swapping and the Td5 one is an excellent example of too much cost cutting. You are right, the tank is in the back of later Td5 age 90s, not sure about the mounts though, I'd go and look on mine but I can't remember what the mountings look like on older 90s....

Go on, you know you want to spend 6 weekends making a KittyBlower fan mount out of 6mm plate instead

Paul's the one with more silverware in his winch challenge trophy cabinet than just about anybody else in the country see http://www.blackpig.org/ for the tools of the trade... Get well soon

All the ones I have seen were slidy bit to t/box. Which in a way is a bit dumb because muck is more likely to run down the splines... but that is the way LR say they should go.

I had always been led to believe that those things weren't a very good idea on a 4x4 because of all the banging around, i.e. they would bugger up the radiator sooner rather than later?

I know, but there are no MOT's or any equivalent here - I just want it to read the way it should do because I am a fussy bugger and I like things to be right The Discovery speedo would read slightly under too, except it has slightly oversize 255/70R16 tyres on (should be 235/70R16) so it is also just about spot on, reads about 0.5% low.

Job done. Forgot to take the camera down to work but not much to show anyway.... it is just as described. Here is the one that came out, the thing as removed: and when you pull the drive gear out of the little housing: Speedo reading before/after using GPS on 265/75R16 BFG MT's (fairly well worn) Steady 25mph on speedo was 26.5mph true road speed now 24.5mph true Steady 40mph on speedo was 43.4mph true road speed now 38.6mph true which is much better when somebody is pointing a speed gun at you, now I know I am not speeding. On the 33x12.50R15 the speedo reading ought to be just about dead on I reckon

If I had sensitive female company I would not be wasting time watching video

Grandpa?

Here Wonder what the kids will turn out like?

And the floor/exhaust pipe/wiring/..... I have seen a couple where the prop has let go completely at speed, on one of them the floor in the drivers footwell was about 2 inches from the bottom of the pedals where the prop had been trying to get in when the UJ on the front of the transfer box let go at about 50mph leaving the prop thrashing round underneath Another one let go right in front of me just outside work, there was this almighty bang and suddenly the back end of the vehicle leapt a couple of feet in the air, the rear prop had let go at the handbrake drum and dug in, neatly catching a seam in the road, pole vaulting the rear of the vehicle and then wiping out the whole of the rear section of the exhaust and various other bits and pieces. Didn't do the prop much good either As Les said if in doubt replace it - the alternative may be expensive....! (and dangerous) Another first class post Les

Yeah that's what I was trying to think of, I saw them on the BFG website a while back but I couldn't remember the name... Mmmmmmm very nice. Wonder if they would fit on the 17's on a Discofairy 3? Nothing a 9in grinder wouldn't sort I am sure

I want one of those! Though I have a feeling it won't fit the Td5 type splines